Mgrene

Yes and that is my conclusion as well. I'm just surprised that there is a noise really. Yes, the new clearance is looser than before but still within the tolerance range and still leaning more towards the tighter clearance than the loose clearance. Anyway, I will give it another go (re-shimming) later today and hopefully that will fix the noise. Thanks for your time Mike. Much appreciated.

Hi Mike. Yes I will check the clearance again this evening. I had the car running on idle for 2 x 10-15 minutes (both times from cold start), so the engine did not see more than 80-85c oil temp. I did rev the engine of course while idling just to check if the noise disappeared at higher rpm but it's difficult to tell due to the noise of the exhausts and all. Maybe I should have taken the car for a spin, getting it up to much warmer temperature? I did not take the car for a run as I do not know if loose clearance could damage anything? Looking through old posts on this page, I saw somewhere that Lee from SRD confirmed that HKS 264 cams needs a clearance of 0,20m (intake) & 0,30M (exhaust) and I am actually below that as you can tell from the spread sheet. Could it be that when you combine the HKS 264 with uprated valves, springs & retainers, the clearance should actually be much tighter? or maybe the vales, springs & retainers has nothing to say in that matter? So what I think I will do later today is to remove the valve covers and check the clearance again (for 20th time ) and then see if the clearance is larger than when I checked the clearance upon installation of the new shims. If it turns out that the clearance is still the same I will try to go for a bit tighter clearance. Just another 3-4 hours job that I hope that I could have avoided. Stupid car. If it ain't broken, don't fix it. I just thought that it wouldn't hurt to get the clearances right.

And here is the spread sheet. I suspect that the feeler gauge I used to measure the clearance before I installed the new shims, was a bit off hence I used another gauge to measure the clearance with the new shims. Valve clearence.xlsx

Evening. So, I have have just re-shimmed my valves and now the car is making a ticking noise coming from the head. I suspect that it is valve lifter noise (see video - hope you can hear it). I changed the shims because the clearence was very tight and some was even below the minimum tollerance. So to be on the safe side I tried to aim for a tollerance of 0,20mm (intake) and 0,30mm (exhaust). I didn’t quite quite succeed to hit spot on but the clearence is at least larger than before. I will add the spread sheet where all measurements are mentioned so you can see my method on how to calculate the new size for the shims. I’m running HKS 264 cams and Brian Crower valves, springs & retainers. so why am I now experincing this freakin noise? It’s not like I’m running a huge clearence compared to before. could it have something to do with the cams getting use to new shims or how does it work. can I somehow identify which particular valve/shim is the issue? Don’t want to change all of them if its only one or two causing the noise. The spread sheet will follow once I log in to my computer later this evening IMG_8700.MOV

Hi Nathan. When doing the compression test, did you only crank the engine for 1/2 second for each cylinder? I crank the engine 5-7 times for each cylinder when I do compression tests.

Final stupid question. when retarding the crank is it clockwise or counterclockwise? or maybe that doesn’t matter

Thanks Mike. I’m running HKS 264 cams and Brian Crower valves, springs and retainers.

So I’m in the process of installing my camshafts and I have reached the point where the manual says I have to rotate both cams leaving the forward pin up. Since cylinder 1 & 6 are top dead center, the valves will of course not allow me to rotate the camshafts far enough to get the pin facing up because the valves are hitting the pistons. why is the manual asking me to do it when it is not possible? What am I missing here? sure I could rotate the crank but the manual does not say anything about that and I really don’t want to because then my cambelt will most likely move out of its position on the cranksprocket. does it really matter to untighten and then tighten the camcaps again afterwards? bonus question: I’ve heard many talking about a 2JZ being a non interference engine. Then how come my valves are hitting the pistons? Or maybe I have misunderstood the actual meaning of non interference?

Thanks for the link but I have actually already ordered this from toyotool.com

Thanks Mike. I'm aware that it is not necessary to replace the stem seals when re-shimming. However, given the fact that the engine was built approx. 10 years ago and hasn't (to my knowledge) been open since, I think it wouldn't hurt to replace the stem seals now that I do have the valve covers and camshafts off anyway. The engine has not done many miles (primarily used as showcar) but I imagine that parts such as stem seals wear out over time. I would really love to check the valves also but since the head is still installed, that will not be possible. I have to settle with the leak down test to tell me if any valves are bent or not seating properly. Since it's so many years since the engine was built I think it will be difficult to tell the reason why the intake valve is so way off tolerance. If it is because of a lazy builder who didn't measure this when building the engine, well, it is just another great example why I want to do stuff myself.

The engine is fully built with aftermarket parts. Producing 700-900 whp. After the re-shimming I am actually planning to do a compression and leakdown test. Now that I’m going to re-shim, would it be a good idea to replace the stem seals as well? Is this at all possible with the head still installed. I have read about a toyo-tool that can be used but now sure if the one I looked up is the right one?

Evening forum. so, I’m doing my first maintenance check on my Supra and this evening I decided to check the valve clearence. my spec is briefly: - HKS 264 cams - Brian Crower valve springs and retainers - Brian Crower valves According to the manual, the tollerance must be: Intake: 0,15mm-0,25mm Exhaust: 0,25mm-0,35mm So far all is within spec except for one intake valve. The lowest feeler gauge I have is 0,05mm and that won’t even go between the cam and the shim Here are my questions: 1) the one valve with the low clearance will of course get a new shim, but what does it mean in practice when it is so low? Is there a change that the piston will hit the valve ? 2) The manual is of course based on stock motor. In my case I’m running with different cams, springs and valves. Can I still follow the tollerances in the manual? What are you guys running with? I have not meassured all yet, simply to tired. Will meassure the rest tomorrow.

Any news to this project ?

And that is exactly how I want to do it as well, so nice to hear that it works. I know the optimal (and most probably the healthiest setup) is to do a bypass solution, but that will require soo much more than just welding in a valve and for that reason, I’m out.

Maybe I was not clear. the back pressure I was talking about, was only when the valve is closed and especially when cruising on highway and I decide to close the valve to reduce noise, wheter that would be any good for the engine. I don’t doubt that the inner diameter is large enough to flow the sort of power I’m runing and will in that sense not create any restrictions. But for easier installation it would have been nice that it matches the inner diameter of my exhaust system once I have sold my Varex muffler, I will buy this one

Is it this one you are running with your 4" exhaust?

Noted. My real concern is back pressure and the consequence of having too much back pressure. Both while driving carefully in house areas but also on longer trips on highways doing let's say 90 mph and then want to tune down the noise a bit by restricting the flow. Not sure how the engine would react to that. I have actually bought a brand new 4" Varex muffler with built-in valve adjustment, however, the muffler is simply to big to be installed anywhere (unless I'm willing to replace it instead of my existing muffler which I'm not). Instead the plan was to install it as a noise canceller somewhere on the midpipe. I looked up the Apexi valve, is it just me (maybe I'm blind) but on the homepage, the biggest one they got is 95mm pipe diameter? My 4" system from whifbitz measure 110mm in inner diameter.

Can you adjust how much the valve is closing when you pull the lever? In other words, is there a risk that the valve will close completely when you pull the lever fully?

Yeah that would be an option but since I have paid a reseaonably price for the ones from Whifbitz, I will use them for now. but in all honesty, when comparing the struts from Aliexpress and Whifbitz. I really can’t tell the difference quality wise. Guess in the end, Whifbitz most likely also get theirs from asia.

Yes they do but unfortunately I didn't notice that before I had ordered and installed a black carbon fiber set from Whifbitz. However, the set from Paul is of course also nice but would have loved to have it in the same color as the bootstruts.

Alright Everyone. The new struts from Aliexpress is now installed. For less than half the price of OEM I would chose these without hesitation. Honestly, they are really worth every penny. And you can order it in many different nice colors to match you car. I have a TRD wing installed and they keep the bootlid up without any issues so don’t worry if you have a heavy wing. observations. the strust comes with plastic joints installe on them but brand new additional alujoints comes with the package so you can switch if you like (I did that because the alu ones looks much better and the small clip is a lot easier to handle than the clips on the plasticjoints). there are no bolts delivered with the brackets. I could re-use the bolts that goes on the brackets on the bootlid but you need to get your own bolts for the brackets going on the car. Only negative thing to say (or I actually don’t know if it means anything) is that when you use the new brackets on the bootlid, the direction of the pint-ball is not downwards as OEM, instead it is directed towards the center of the boot. But since the joints on the strut is installed on a thread, you can just adjust the joint. So it is not a problem. Well, here are some pictures. Sorry for bad lighting.

Correct, the instruction is generic an is not useful in this case. However, the job is quite straigh forward, it is only a bit of pain to get to the bolts holding the bracket in the car. I will install the struts this evening. I will make sure to take some pictures of the brackets (which also is in decent quality) and the result when done.

Unfortunately I had no luck bending/pushing the struts. Not even after several attemps. But the good news is that yesterday I received the new struts which I ordered from Aliexpress December 7th. I haven't installed them yet but the first impression is very good. The finish is very good and they seem very robust. Here is a few pictures. I will keep you updated once they are installed.

I have tried the trick as well but without luck. How hard do you push? I feel like I’m on the edge to break them

Pushing in a direction that the strut is not build for goes against all logic however, I will give it a go tomorrow.