Mgrene

Yes and that is my conclusion as well. I'm just surprised that there is a noise really. Yes, the new clearance is looser than before but still within the tolerance range and still leaning more towards the tighter clearance than the loose clearance. Anyway, I will give it another go (re-shimming) later today and hopefully that will fix the noise. Thanks for your time Mike. Much appreciated.

Hi Mike. Yes I will check the clearance again this evening. I had the car running on idle for 2 x 10-15 minutes (both times from cold start), so the engine did not see more than 80-85c oil temp. I did rev the engine of course while idling just to check if the noise disappeared at higher rpm but it's difficult to tell due to the noise of the exhausts and all. Maybe I should have taken the car for a spin, getting it up to much warmer temperature? I did not take the car for a run as I do not know if loose clearance could damage anything? Looking through old posts on this page, I saw somewhere that Lee from SRD confirmed that HKS 264 cams needs a clearance of 0,20m (intake) & 0,30M (exhaust) and I am actually below that as you can tell from the spread sheet. Could it be that when you combine the HKS 264 with uprated valves, springs & retainers, the clearance should actually be much tighter? or maybe the vales, springs & retainers has nothing to say in that matter? So what I think I will do later today is to remove the valve covers and check the clearance again (for 20th time ) and then see if the clearance is larger than when I checked the clearance upon installation of the new shims. If it turns out that the clearance is still the same I will try to go for a bit tighter clearance. Just another 3-4 hours job that I hope that I could have avoided. Stupid car. If it ain't broken, don't fix it. I just thought that it wouldn't hurt to get the clearances right.

And here is the spread sheet. I suspect that the feeler gauge I used to measure the clearance before I installed the new shims, was a bit off hence I used another gauge to measure the clearance with the new shims. Valve clearence.xlsx

Evening. So, I have have just re-shimmed my valves and now the car is making a ticking noise coming from the head. I suspect that it is valve lifter noise (see video - hope you can hear it). I changed the shims because the clearence was very tight and some was even below the minimum tollerance. So to be on the safe side I tried to aim for a tollerance of 0,20mm (intake) and 0,30mm (exhaust). I didn’t quite quite succeed to hit spot on but the clearence is at least larger than before. I will add the spread sheet where all measurements are mentioned so you can see my method on how to calculate the new size for the shims. I’m running HKS 264 cams and Brian Crower valves, springs & retainers. so why am I now experincing this freakin noise? It’s not like I’m running a huge clearence compared to before. could it have something to do with the cams getting use to new shims or how does it work. can I somehow identify which particular valve/shim is the issue? Don’t want to change all of them if its only one or two causing the noise. The spread sheet will follow once I log in to my computer later this evening IMG_8700.MOV

Hi Nathan. When doing the compression test, did you only crank the engine for 1/2 second for each cylinder? I crank the engine 5-7 times for each cylinder when I do compression tests.

Final stupid question. when retarding the crank is it clockwise or counterclockwise? or maybe that doesn’t matter

Thanks Mike. I’m running HKS 264 cams and Brian Crower valves, springs and retainers.

So I’m in the process of installing my camshafts and I have reached the point where the manual says I have to rotate both cams leaving the forward pin up. Since cylinder 1 & 6 are top dead center, the valves will of course not allow me to rotate the camshafts far enough to get the pin facing up because the valves are hitting the pistons. why is the manual asking me to do it when it is not possible? What am I missing here? sure I could rotate the crank but the manual does not say anything about that and I really don’t want to because then my cambelt will most likely move out of its position on the cranksprocket. does it really matter to untighten and then tighten the camcaps again afterwards? bonus question: I’ve heard many talking about a 2JZ being a non interference engine. Then how come my valves are hitting the pistons? Or maybe I have misunderstood the actual meaning of non interference?

Thanks for the link but I have actually already ordered this from toyotool.com

Thanks Mike. I'm aware that it is not necessary to replace the stem seals when re-shimming. However, given the fact that the engine was built approx. 10 years ago and hasn't (to my knowledge) been open since, I think it wouldn't hurt to replace the stem seals now that I do have the valve covers and camshafts off anyway. The engine has not done many miles (primarily used as showcar) but I imagine that parts such as stem seals wear out over time. I would really love to check the valves also but since the head is still installed, that will not be possible. I have to settle with the leak down test to tell me if any valves are bent or not seating properly. Since it's so many years since the engine was built I think it will be difficult to tell the reason why the intake valve is so way off tolerance. If it is because of a lazy builder who didn't measure this when building the engine, well, it is just another great example why I want to do stuff myself.

The engine is fully built with aftermarket parts. Producing 700-900 whp. After the re-shimming I am actually planning to do a compression and leakdown test. Now that I’m going to re-shim, would it be a good idea to replace the stem seals as well? Is this at all possible with the head still installed. I have read about a toyo-tool that can be used but now sure if the one I looked up is the right one?

Evening forum. so, I’m doing my first maintenance check on my Supra and this evening I decided to check the valve clearence. my spec is briefly: - HKS 264 cams - Brian Crower valve springs and retainers - Brian Crower valves According to the manual, the tollerance must be: Intake: 0,15mm-0,25mm Exhaust: 0,25mm-0,35mm So far all is within spec except for one intake valve. The lowest feeler gauge I have is 0,05mm and that won’t even go between the cam and the shim Here are my questions: 1) the one valve with the low clearance will of course get a new shim, but what does it mean in practice when it is so low? Is there a change that the piston will hit the valve ? 2) The manual is of course based on stock motor. In my case I’m running with different cams, springs and valves. Can I still follow the tollerances in the manual? What are you guys running with? I have not meassured all yet, simply to tired. Will meassure the rest tomorrow.

Any news to this project ?

And that is exactly how I want to do it as well, so nice to hear that it works. I know the optimal (and most probably the healthiest setup) is to do a bypass solution, but that will require soo much more than just welding in a valve and for that reason, I’m out.

Maybe I was not clear. the back pressure I was talking about, was only when the valve is closed and especially when cruising on highway and I decide to close the valve to reduce noise, wheter that would be any good for the engine. I don’t doubt that the inner diameter is large enough to flow the sort of power I’m runing and will in that sense not create any restrictions. But for easier installation it would have been nice that it matches the inner diameter of my exhaust system once I have sold my Varex muffler, I will buy this one