P_Bazz

The solder joints behind the lights are a known weak point but usually the lights do not come on at all if they are broken/dried out. Might still be worth a check though as it's an easy to fix problem.

Hotel booked in Calais for the thursday, we will be waiting for you guys at the exit of the Eurotunnel parking, same spot as 2013 . Camera will be ready to film the full convoy. Walkie channel 5 again for this year?

It was self fabricated and already on the car when I bought it. I changed it back to the stock airbox now, the IAT sensor needed to be held in place with tyraps

NGK leads are blue and a lot less hassle then fabricating your own leads http://www.ebay.com/itm/NGK-Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-TE120-LEXUS-GS300-SC300-SUPRA-/121083932688

I'm currently building a NA-T engine and got offered a brand new XS Power intake manifold a few weeks ago by a fellow member. I quite liked the look and how it simplified the intercooler piping so I bought it. Looked up XS Powers site to find that it fits a Q45 throttlebody. Yesterday I finally found a complete OEM Nissan one with the pigtails for sale on the Dutch Skyline forum and went to pick it up. Guess what... it doesn't even come close to fitting the manifold . Okay that's a bit odd I said to myself but I should be able to drill some extra holes to fit it. I got my sharpie to mark the holes just to realize that also doesn't work because then the throttlecable mechanism hits the flange and it can't fully open!! http://xs-power.com/toyota-turbo-manifolds-18.htm

87248N PIPE, HEATER WATER INLET 87248-14230 1 $27.16 If I'm not mistaken, I can't find the Toyota receipt anymore.

I think we'll be fine driving those routes in Amsterdam. Most tourists take the public transport or tourbusses anyway, most of the traffic will be situated around Amsterdam Central Station but it's nothing like the Brussels traffic especially not on a saturday.

It does if your downpipe from the turbo lines up with the rest of the exhaust.

Thanks Jacky, it's absolutely no prize winner up close but I do my best to keep it tidy. I prefer working on the mechanical parts rather than polishing it all day long . The rear subframe is almost ready for sandblasting and powdercoating, took a bit longer than expected because one of the driveshafts refused to leave the hub it had been living in for the past 21 years. I just need to borrow a blowtorch to get the last of the bushes out and then I can continue with the front. I've also been busy with soldering the adapter loom for the Emanage: And designing my exhaust manifold: I'm going for a similar design as the Treadstone manifolds but without the external wastegate. I need to maximize spool for a nice street setup and enough room to fit the wastegate actuator for the quick spool valve.

After driving around NA for 3 years and having been on 2 Dragonball tours it is now finally time for the Supra to be rebuild properly with some more power and a better suspension setup. For the base engine I've bought the NA-T engine that was owned and built by Al Massey. It had some pretty sweet parts on it and the bottom end was already rebuilt with TT pistons. It was fitted with a custom exhaust manifold and a Greddy replica turbo. I decided to sell that turbo setup and bought a Holset HX40W watercooled turbo instead. It still needs some more polishing but it came up quite nice already. The exhaust manifold is going to be a custom log-style instead of the tubular one. The full specs are as follows: - ARP headstuds and bottom end bolts - Rebuild GE head with BC springs and retainers - Holset HX40W Billet Wheel and Turbosmart Wastegate - TT Pistons - ACL bearings - Full Toyota Engine Gasket Set - XS Power FFIM with Q45 TB - RX-7 550cc injectors - Aeromotive FPR and Fuel pump - HKS Pulleys and Timing Belt - SRD Belt Tensioner Bracket - Whifbitz Pulley set - TRD engine mounts - Greddy Emanage Ultimate - NGK R spark plugs and leads - All pumps refurbished or new Pulling the NA lump and gearbox from the car was fairly easy as quite a few members from the Dutch Supra OC came to help me out. Now that the engine was safely in the garage I've started removing the subframes and replacing everything that has worn down, bushes, control arms, brakes etc. The engine bay will be resprayed and cleaned where possible. I will also be swapping the dash to one that's in a better condition and might swap the heater matrix while I'm at it. With this setup I'm hoping to achieve around 500bhp. My W58 probably isn't going to enjoy that kind of abuse so I'm swapping that out for a CD009 6 Speed gearbox from a Fairlady Z33. It will need some custom parts to fit nicely into the car but should still be way cheaper than a Getrag.

I drive with Koni shocks with Eibach springs on them. You can also lower the spring on the shock by moving the smaller circlip to the lower position underneath the spring seating. You can already see the groove for it on the picture.

Have you checked the IACV?

Also interested. Are they the same diameter as the stock lower runners?

You should be able to reach them with the heatshield off, take it real easy when undoing them the bolt heads snap very easily. It can be done with the intake pipes connected but it's a breeze when you take them off first. There are two O2 sensors, one in each part of the exhaust manifold and they're both secured with two (12mm IIRC) nuts. Pull the plugs from the engine loom and you can take them out to sit in lemon juice for a night. Best is to replace them but they are not cheap so the lemon juice trick should at least give you a clue if the problems are caused by the sensors.

It's on the top of the engine block, there are two sensors plugged into the the throttlebody there (the square part where the black hose connects to). The left one is the IACV. The two O2 sensors are bolted on the exhaust below the heatshield on the left side of the engine.

Code 42 has nothing to do with it. It is probably your IACV that's a bit sticky. Here is the guide to fix it: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?210956-How-To-Clean-Idle-Control-Valve-Cleaning-Aka-ICV-(IAC) The pictures are for a TT but it's the same for a NA.

Thanks, great info and very helpful. I couldn't really figure out the turbo maps before but it makes sense now.

Hi all, I'm currently rebuilding my spare engine and looking for some advice on how to continue the build. First some specs and bits I already have collected. Base engine specs: 2JZ-GE with TT pistons, new bearings and ARP bolts GE cylinderhead with new stem seals, ARP studs and Brian Crower valve springs with Ti retainers Toyota GE Engine Gasket Overhaul set HKS adjustable camshaft pulleys and HKS timing belt Whifbitz cambelt bracket, pulley set and idler pulley New oil pump, water pump, cambelt tensioner and tensioner pulley 550cc RX7 injectors Custom T4 tubular manifold GReddy Emanage Ultimate Major parts still to find/decide on: Turbo, Intercooler, FFIM, AFR controller My goal is to build a NA-T engine with a good engine response and as little as possible turbo lag. I'm going to use my W58 which is already fitted with a stage 3 DCA clutch kit. It should hold 486 Nm (359ft lbs) of torque so I will definitely not go near that number to minimise the risk breaking both the clutch and the gearbox. Now I have the following options to choose from: NA or TT headgasket, my question being simple, is the lower compression from the TT pistons going to be enough to achieve 400BHP without the risk of detonation? Knowing that the Whifbitz NA-T kit manages about 360 bhp on stock compression lets me to believe that only the pistons will be enough. I would rather not lower the compression any more than necessary because it would only make the engine less efficient. The turbo, I've read so many contradicting stories everywhere that I would rather ask you guys what to choose. I can basically choose anything I want from all available Holset or Garrett parts/turbos. There is a turbo importer that lives about 5 minutes from my house and he still owes me a favor for helping him with a sale so he offered me a (custom) turbo at a good price . I could either pick a smaller turbo with higher boost levels or bigger turbo with lower boost levels. The bigger turbo is obviously less stressed and said to be more efficient but may lack the low RPM torque and have more of an "on/off feeling" than a smaller turbo has. The airflow should be the same so the engine couldn't care less. With my current valvetrain my rev limit should be about 1000 RPM higher than stock so there is also the extra heat to be considered at the peaks during spirited driving. The exhaust manifold, I currently have a custom undivided tubular style manifold which is extremely sturdy and should easily handle the power. However, a log style manifold helps clear the distributor cap and should help the turbo spool up better than a tubular one. Would the difference be noticable? My personal choice would be the NA headgasket with a tubular manifold and a GT30 ball bearing turbo. But let me know what you think, all options are considered . And a picture with the car the engine once sat in:

I didn't receive a PM?

Worked an absolute charm last year. The only two times we drove the wrong way was when we didn't follow the satnav . Ended up on a tollroad both times .

I think you need some proper leverage on them, I used a large wooden beam I found while walking the dog . When you stick it under the chassis and press down on the drum part of the brakedisk the suspension should move fairly easily.

I think he means the parts around the hub as those often rust due to the heating and cooling down again. As said before, can't be done with brand new disks as you would never know the area where the pads make contact with the disks. Other than those parts they can easily be painted with some heat resistant paint. Done this myself, no change in braking power whatsoever.

Got a stage 3 from Callaway Motorsport fitted with NA-T future in mind. Some light chatter in first gear (might be from the combination with the lightweight flywheel) but it feels better than my previous clutch (ACT). Very street driveable as it isn't a six puck.

Gates do a 6PK1263. I don't know if they can use those numbers in the autoparts stores in the UK? As it should have the six ribs and a length of 1263 mm.

At least it's an easy fix.