P_Bazz

Yes happens very often, they are fastened so tight from the factory that the small outer parts of the fitting end deform. You need to file down the outer end of the fitting a bit and then it should fit fine again. Had the same issue when fitting my Do Luck lines. No leaks whatsoever and the thread was fine.

PM an offer, I have no idea what to ask for the boss separately. Yes, still here.

Sideskirts sold, steering wheel added.

Bump and new parts added.

Are these still for sale?

The rubber rings on the small piston inside the master and slave cilinder will deteriorate over time and cause fluid to seep past them while you hold the clutch pedal down. This gives the spongy feeling, if you have a heavy clutch in particular the chance of this happening increases. I would look at them/replace them as soon as you can because mine started doing that as well and two days later I couldn't get the car in gear anymore because the slave cilinder wasn't holding any pressure.

This is a guide for flushing but I've found it works equally well for bleeding. Once the motor runs the fluid will go extremely fast so make sure it is filled up. Make sure to put in the bottle cap very tight or it will leak: http://web.archive.org/web/20040826231136/http://reepa.com/psflush.php

Thanks for the kind words Chris, the Treadstone one is indeed an cast manifold and I was trying to replicate that design in a tubular form. However the Treadstone one is made for the GE VVTI engine and won't clear the distributor. The guy who was going to weld it for me decided to quit doing sidejobs and I bought a Whifbitz NA-t manifold instead and I'm welding my internal wastegate valve shut. I'm curently in the process of adapting the 1ZZ Celica coils as a COP conversion method that works with either a GTE ECU or a standalone system. The dwell time, cost price and the fact that they have a build in igniter and IGN return signals make them a very promising alternative for the VVTI coils or GM coils. It would also mean I can make more room for the turbo intake as I'm swapping the stock distributor for a 7M GTE CPS.

Time for an update here, due to my stock open diff breaking I'm going to upgrade it. I was looking at Kaaz and TRD units but went with the TRD in the end. Stripped down the casing and sent it off to the powdercoater along with my rear brake calipers and some other small stuff. The TRD oil filter got damaged on it's way from Japan, but I could've known that would happen when it's in the same box with the top heavy diff. The freshly coated empty housing and the new seals, bearings, gaskets, plugs etc. and the Jspec caliper with a Chris Wilson stainless piston set. Real quality stuff: The complete front side assembled. And the rear side in progress. Finally found some TT cam covers for the NA-T engine. The only issue I have right now that the rear wheel bearings seem to have some play in them when I rock the wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. That obviously shouldn't be there with new bearings, I haven't quite found the cause. The hubs and flanges seemed to be in good shape (the bearing races were quite stuck but I got them off with minimal damage to the flange). I will check again when the driveshafts and diff are back in there and thightened down.

Boostcontroller sold.

It comes with the universal harness but I believe Paul Whiffin sells the PnP Supra harnesses for the EMUs.

They're both still available.

For sale due to upgrading to a standalone system. GReddy Emanage Ultimate, complete with harness, injector modifier, (to stop the EMU from running overly rich on a 2JZ), MAP sensor, data cable, original paperwork and fitting instructions for NA-T. £300 + p&p Blitz Dual SBC Spec R Boostcontroller, complete. SOLD Walbro GSL392 in-line pump with brackets and sleeve. Never used. £60 + p&p Set of used OEM shock insulators and bumpstops. Can be used with OEM, Bilstein, Koni and KYB shocks. £80 + p&p OEM sideskirts, came from a '96 TT 6 speed. SOLD QSP 90mm deep dish steering wheel + snapoff + non-airbag boss £60 + p&p

On what engine was the turbo before/tested? The displacement, exhaust manifold, intercooler setup, boostcontroller setup and a lot more things have influence on the spool of a turbo. If the turbo was on the exact same engine with the same setup and map etc. etc. and is now that much slower obviously something is wrong but otherwise I would question that what is "claimed" actually applies for your engine and setup.

Pretty easy if you have some jackstands, you need to disconnect the rear brake hoses (or the calipers if you don't want to bleed the system again), parking brake lines and propshaft. After that you just remove the two larger bolts at the front and 8 at the rear and the whole thing comes out. Don't tilt it when lowering it or otherwise it will get stuck on the front, it is extremely heavy so make sure your jack is seated properly under the diff.

Very nice project! It might possibly be the differential bushes that cause the wheel hop? Toyota doesn't sell the separate bushes for the ears but you can get a supplemental washer kit from Superpro for them. I'm sure the two rear ones are available from Toyota, I don't think TRD makes them anymore. Found this a while ago and might explain what is happening:

Maybe there is someone on here who can shed a little light on this unusual problem. I bought an almost complete facelift SZR 6 speed clutch for the NA-AT to TT6 swap that I'm doing for a friend. Only the throwout bearing assembly in the pressure plate was missing. Now that said friend found another lightly used pressure plate WITH the bearing assembly still on it, only after installing the gearbox and engine back into the car I received word that the pressure plate was from a TT and not a SZR. I checked the Toyota systems and the part numbers don't match between the two:(. However they looked quite the same and the TT pressure plate fitted to the SZR flywheel fine. My question being; will it still work with this setup or do I have to take it all out again? Facelift SZR friction disc 31250-14200 (currently in the car) Facelift SZR pressure plate 31210-14180 TT friction disc 31250-14190 TT pressure plate 31210-14170 (currently in the car)

I was a bit disappointed at first that I couldn't make it in my own car, but trying to keep up in banana coloured 106 and enjoying the convoy flying past was almost as much fun . It was very nice to catch up again with you guys and having chat with a lot of you I hadn't spoken on the last two tours or were on their first DB this year!

I won't be driving to Calais tomorrow, my diff decided to quit working earlier today I'm going to join you guys on friday afternoon/evening when I've fitted a replacement.

I spent more time building the car then updating this thread but here is a bit of an update for you guys. I decided to postpone the NA-T engine to focus on the chassis and getting the car ready in time for Dragonball. I don't like to rush things and I'm still in doubt of the setup I want. Installing the fuel pump Upgraded the front brakes with LS400 calipers, sandblasted and rebuild them. The CW stainless caliper kit for the Jspec rears should be here any day now. Also got some Do Luck teflon brake lines to upgrade the old tired hoses. Got my subframes and suspension parts back from the powdercoater. Made a small mistake thinking that the large Superpro bushes were for the front of the rear subframe so ordered new OEM bushings for the front side. I chose for press-in solid front and rear diff bushes from PHR. All the steel suspension arms are painted in 202 black. The hubs with new bearings and studs should be ready this friday, the subframes are already on the car I just need to fit the diff, stabilizing bars and new droplinks. To all the people who said that replacing all the suspension bushes is a $*&% of a job, you are totally right

The stud needs to protrude just as far from the block as it did on the stock oil cooler housing. Got mine from Whifbitz and the sandwich plate had a bolt with it like this so the oil filter still has something to screw on to:

100N equals roughly 10kgs of force, of course you want to exceed the actual weight of the tailgate in order to lift it but you can measure it relatively easy by pushing up at the pivot points with a scale and a stick.

They're for the large subframe bushes on the front side of the rear subframe.

Nope, just the upper cowling, you need to take out 5 screws and gently pull it towards you. The lights cluster itself has one plug and two screws on the backside holding it to the cowl.