P_Bazz

For sale a complete TRD pre-facelift cluster. The glass has been replaced with a brand new Denso unit recently and is immaculate. These are getting harder to find especially with the temp and fuel gauge. Sold pending payment.

Bump. Will listen to good offers, the turbo has been checked by a professional and I can guarantee this has not any damage or play in it. Can include the gaskets if necessary.

Pricedrop 2100 GBP

For sale a HKS (Garrett) GT2835 BB Big Twin turbo kit. Has seen some miles by the looks of it. Second turbo is a bit smokey but it's all still functional. Guessing it's a seal on it's way out, should be an easy fix being Garrett turbos. Comes with: - Oil and water lines - Downpipe - HKS Wastegates - HKS Heat Shields - Manifolds - Intake pipes with HKS filters (could use some new inserts) - HKS cold side intercooler pipes Not sure of the mileage. Do know that these kits are pretty rare nowadays as complete as this. Price 2100 GBP + P&P. Do not hesitate to send me a PM with any questions!

Received a few new bits so tried to get them fitted to the car/engine. The stock fan shroud and viscous fan wasn't an option due to the location of the intercooler piping/auxillary damper and the larger size of the Koyo radiator. Went with a double Spal fan setup, should be suffecient at a standstill, I do not expect any heat issues while moving. Also received a shipment of intercooler and intake pipes along with the couplers from Viper Performance. Some modifications will be necessary on the intake side, the Q45 throttlebody is mounted too far forward to clear the radiator on the 90 degree turn down. I will most likely shorten the throttlebody flange along with a Vanjen-style clamp instead of the silicon coupler. Seems like the Blitz LM intercooler uses a slightly larger size coupler than the standard 3" (76mm), more like 3-1/4" (83mm) so will need to order two more reducers in that size along with a 90 degree coupler for the cold side radiator turn. Cold air intake anyone?

You will need some oil and water lines (the fittings for the turbo are still here), an intake pipe and an air filter to make it complete again. The car was a grey UK spec owned by a guy named Thomas. Non VVTi GTE engine. I tried searching for the breaking thread but couldn't find it. Was definitely a member on here though. I believe the shell ended up at Extreme Performance (Keron).

For sale a Borg Warner EFR8374 turbo kit with the manifold, downpipe, fittings etc. These were the same turbokits as used on the Whifbitz Time Attack cars and this one is a full spec model: - Polished compressor housing - Billet compressor wheel - Split twin scroll stainless steel turbine housing - Gamma Titanium Turbine wheel - Water cooled core - Zircotec coating on all the hotside parts - IWG75 Turbosmart Wastegate actuator - Boost solenoid on the compressor housing - Built in blow off valve - 4mm 304 stainless steel manifold - 3" downpipe Fully plug and play, just connect some plumbing and you're good to go. It's been sitting around for a couple of years for a future project but I need to free up some space and money for my current project so this needs to go. Obviously some markings from old heatwrap/turbo blanket and when it was mounted on the car but it's in pristine condition, the factory paint markings are all still there as well. It has run for a couple of weeks before the car got rear ended in a traffic jam in November 2014 (iirc) and was broken for parts. I'll let the pictures do the talking: These kits are now 5200+ GBP new from Whifbitz without the polished housing or Turbosmart actuator, considering it's missing some pieces and it being a bit older I'm looking for 3500 GBP. For any additional info, pictures or offers send me a PM!

Driftmotion in the US. I opted for the 7M CPS sensor at first but this was slightly easier and I don't need the extra space as the turbo is mounted so far back in the engine bay.

Small update, been busy with the intercooler placement and piping routes. The turbo was fouling on the bottom radiator hose so I rotated the thermostat housing for the hose to run underneath the alternator. Also changed the OEM rad for a Koyo. The engine bay will receive a full respray before final installation of the engine, it's looking a bit tired at the moment.

Installed the Collins differential adapter, it converts the standard 3 point to a 4 point 1310 Dana Spicer flange. This is the same as the yoke in the gearbox.

The engine and gearbox fit, barely. Didn't have to bash in the firewall and tunnel though which is a bonus. Now I can take some measurements for the intercooler piping, wiring harness and the driveshaft. The shifter position is fine I just need to lower the gearbox down a bit to get the custom shifter in place.

You can do it alone but it uses a bit more fluid in the process and you can't see what's going on beneath the car obviously. The bleed nipple on the cilinder is reachable from the top but it's definitely easier from below. I always use Chrisfix technique when working alone: I guess you will need to refurb the slave cilinder though, mine lasted 2 more days after some bleeding and then completely went out. It's quite an easy job if you follow the Toyota manual.

They do not fit perfectly, but due to the bolts being smaller and EVO caliper bracket being slightly narrower than the Supra hubs they do fit. You can use the stock 307mm discs but the offset is wrong. This can be corrected by putting shims behind the pads but it will also correct itself being a double piston system. I would not recommend it and just run the Jspec rears if you want to run 15" rear wheels.

Spark Plug to Distributor 1 5 2 1 3 3 4 6 5 4 6 2 The 4 Runner engine is a V6 setup, hence the different firing order.

There are cheaper gearbox swap alternatives now which won't break the bank and still hold decent power. A couple of BMW gearboxes and the Nissan CD/JK-series have suitable ratios for the Supra. I do not agree with it being more costly than a TT swap, for the price of a decent GTE engine these days you can have a fully built GE engine. The stock NA drivetrain is a dealbreaker though, the TT models are just better equipped to handle the power. Diff bushes, sturdier gearboxes, brakes, ARBs etc.

Been a while but I've finally made some good progress with the whole CD009 swap thing. It's now at least put together so that I can try and fit it in the car and take some measurements for the shop that will be building the driveshaft. The supplied bolts didn't fit at all because they were protruding from the adapterplate for some reason. I modified the OEM bolts to fit in their place instead and have some new 10.9 bolts on order to replace them for the final install. With both of them together the massive size difference between a W58 and the CD009 becomes obvious. If the weather permits it, I'll be trying to get it in the car next week.

The same happened to the Dutch forum, due to the fact that everyone sells their stuff on Facebook now and 90% of the club is in the same Whatsapp group (perk of being a fairly small club I guess?). Most of the build progress ends on there, Facebook or Instagram. Sharing a quick update there is done in a few seconds. I absolutely love the build threads on here but to put my own updates on here I need to find some time that I never seem to have. And then ofcourse the "easier" platforms appeal massively to just dump some pics there and forget to update on here entirely. The social media is a massive improvement for meetings though, and there are more than ever of those now as a result of that. Along with the annual "quality" events which everyone went to anyway before the social media took over.

Came across this in the storage and can't seem to remember to have seen another Supra still equiped with it. A factory facelift option navigation system. I'll check if it powers up and might sell it to someone who likes to have their car all original. I doubt if the navigation part is useful in Europe though...

Pull out the NA5 and putting in the NA-T with CD009 gearbox. Finish it in time for DB18 (this might be the tricky part ).

Is the large orange plug in the passenger side footwell properly pushed in and locked down?

This. I had the same with changing to LS400 calipers at first. Had the brakediscs checked and resurfaced on a lathe and the shaking came back within a few days. Checked the runout on the hub and it was a few tenths of a millimeter off.

The earlier models do this as well. They collect a lot of oil in the lower part of the intake runners due to poor PCV design. As said above the '06+ models are more desirable because of the HR ("revup") engines, better gearbox, different lights etc. Do check the wheelbearings before buying as they tend to go bad. The fronts are a complete assembly and often get stuck in the hub because of corrosion. Swapping them out is sometimes a 30 minute job other times a couple of hours if you need to remove the whole hub from the car. The older/higher mileage models suffer from severe corrosion on the stiffening brackets underneath the front and rear subframes. They are overall not as tough as a Supra.

The bolts are all the same, for looking up part numbers toyodiy.com is quite handy. They also have a reverse search option which let you check all Toyota's that have used the same parts.

I have a brand new pre-facelift ashtray still in the packaging. Might have the handle surround as well but I need to check.

It's by no means tidy or good but I've had it for 5 years now and still not done with it. True beauty is on the underside in this case . Should be NA-T 6 speed in the near future.