P_Bazz

1. Josh42 - Staffordshire 2. blythmrk - Derbyshire/Yorkshire 3. erachter - West Sussex 4. Mike2JZ - Zimbabwe 5. Ben_harmer32 - West Sussex 6. Safcdixon - Durham 7. AdamAMG - Mars 8. Tayr - Uranus/Hampshire 9. Lewmc93 - Merseyside / The TSS 10. Mwilkinson - Hampshire 11. m12aak - Leicester 12. Kev.O - Bristol 13. Samurai 20V - South Africa, Durban 14. Trebor69 - Swadlincote 15. Drift_bear - Aberdeen 16. Harrypm82 - Manchester 17. bonus_2000 - Kent 18. Sukhy - Wolverhampton 19. Dnk - Dunk - Redditch 20. Noz - Devon 21. Jim_supra - East Yorkshire 22. Jord - Oxford 23. Style - Newcastle 24. MrGRT - Berkshire 25. kolb - Estonia 26. Swampy - Lincolnshir 27. HamzaHKhan - London 28. WayneW - Belgium 29. sebas - Poland atm 30. Annabella - Lancashire 31. Foxx - Leicestershire 32. Auzzam - London 33.->K1 - France 34. mellonman - SE LondoN 35. Darren - East Sussex 36. Hamilton- Worcestershire 37. absz-Bedfordshire 38. TheRhdsupra - Netherlands, Vierlingsbeek 39. Jongilly - cumbria 40. P_Bazz - Netherlands

If there are any questions or information you want to add please leave a comment in this thread and I will add it to the main post!

Size difference between a W58 5 speed and the CD009 gearbox A 2JZ with a CD009 adapter plate and custom billet flywheel. As you can see the 350Z clutch is much larger than that of a Supra from the size of the starter gear. A CD009 gearbox with the bellhouse cut off and a adapter plate fitted for an automatic bellhouse. A stock Nissan plastic slave cylinder and a aftermarket steel unit The older style throw out bearing with a fork. The Nissan OE external slave cilinder with a Mazda 323 front brake hose on a manual Supra. The difference in the stock shifter tripods. An original bellhouse sticker stating which transmission it is. A CD009 older style serial #1 being a DE engine gearbox #2 would have been HR.

Hi all, I've decided to do this write up of the entire process of swapping a Supra with a 350/370Z gearbox. There seems to be a lot of bits of information out there and I will try to bundle as much as I can in this thread! Chapter 1: Selecting the right gearbox. There are a variety of CD00X gearboxes starting with the CD001 back in the ‘03 350Z to the JK40c that is still being used in the 370Z today. The strongest boxes are those of the CD009 or JK40 type. They can be found on the later model Zeds (2006 and on). The most significant change in gearbox design occurs around late 2006, when the 350Z changed from the VQ35DE to the VQ35HR engine: - The shifter tripod changed from a solid piece to a more open piece with rubber bushings - The bellhouse bolt pattern is different - The external slave cylinder design changed to an internal one combined with the throwout bearing. With the later gearboxes being much stronger I highly recommend buying one from a later model easily identified by the changes mentioned above (if the part number sticker happens to be missing from the bellhousing). The 370Z gearbox can be identified by it's Rev Match module on top of the gearbox (small black box with a connector just in front of the shifter tripod). This gearbox is named the JK40 instead of CD009. There were CD009 gearboxes mated to a VQ35DE engine in 2006 but they are hard to find and it's even easier to buy the wrong (weaker) model as they are not easily identified other than the OE part number sticker. Furthermore most of the aftermarket shifters, parts and accessories are made for the later model gearbox. There are some advantages to the older style gearboxes though; they use an external slave cylinder which is easy to bleed, easy to service and easy to set up. A Supra that is already manual can just change the bottom clutch hose to a Mazda 323 front brake hose and run the OE Nissan slave cylinder. Another advantage is that they are easy to find and dirt cheap because a lot more pre-facelift Zeds were built. The obvious disadvantage being that if it's not a CD009 unit they will fail eventually. They are known to fail even with stock VQ35 power levels (around 280 bhp). The later the gearbox was built, the stronger it is (a CD005 is already much better than a CD001, CD003 etc). Chapter 2: Selecting the right parts for the swap. Most of this depends on budget or the power level you're seeking to achieve, nonetheless there are some essential basic parts that every CD009 swap needs. If you are starting with an automatic Supra: - Clutch Master cylinder - Brake and Clutch pedal assemblies - Clutch line - Manual transmission tunnel piece - Manual dashboard trim piece - Manual ECU or disable the Neutral switch in the ECU to be able to start the car Parts you need to fit the CD009 into the Supra: - Gearbox mount, loads of aftermarket options, these are the same for all CD00X gearboxes - Propshaft, again the same for all boxes and lots of choices aftermarket or custom - Shifter, this depends on the gearbox (old or new style). You can shorten the stock tripod unit to come forward or buy aftermarket (recommended) - Gearbox adapter plate or kit (more info below) The gearbox adapter kits come in many different forms and shapes. I will list the 3 most popular options: Adapter plate with custom flywheel This is the cheapest and easiest option. It is as the name suggests a thick piece of steel or aluminium to adapt the 2JZ bolt pattern to a CD00X pattern (remember to buy the one that fits your gearbox!). The flywheel uses a stock size starter gear but the surface is much larger to accommodate for a single plate 350Z/370Z clutch. The advantages of this system are a lot of clutch options, it’s relatively cheap, easy to install and works with both the external and internal slave cylinder gearboxes. The main disadvantages are that you’re limited to single plate clutches and the gearbox will be almost impossible to install with the engine still in the car with the CD00X being much larger than a W58, R154 or Getrag. Auto Bellhouse adapter kit This is a good option for those that are swapping from an auto to manual. This kit removes the stock CD00X bellhouse (needs to be cut off) and adapts to a stock A340 automatic bellhouse. This style always uses an internal slave cylinder. The advantages are a much smaller gearbox bellhouse, using the stock bolt holes and bolts to mount to the engine and being able to remove the box with the engine still in the car. The disadvantage is you always need a more exotic clutch setup, either full custom/aftermarket or a W55 flywheel and clutch (IS300 manual) with a S14 friction plate to match the Nissan gearbox spline. Custom bellhouse kit I believe Serial9 is the only company to produce such a kit, but it’s basically the same as above but with a custom fabricated bellhouse to adapt the CD00X to the 2JZ. Expensive but sure to fit properly if you buy the entire kit of course. At least the gearbox is cheap… Chapter 3: Finalising the swap and FAQs With the information in chapters 1 & 2 you now should have a driving 6 speed Supra but there are still some things to consider. The Zed gearboxes do not have a speed sensor (those cars have them on the differential) so you will need some aftermarket solution for this; - A wheel speed sensor converter (e.g. a Dakota digital converter) to use one of the ABS sensors as a speed input for the dashboard and the ECU - A GPS speed module - An aftermarket speed sensor kit for the propshaft The Nissan reverse switch will work, you just need to change the connector on the gearbox loom to a Nissan one. If you decide to buy the gearbox new from Nissan you will always get the latest model and revision, the external slave cylinder version will always be a CD009 so no worries that you will get a weaker version. When using the internal slave cylinder gearbox, make sure to upgrade the slave cylinder to a aftermarket unit. The OE Nissan unit is made from plastic(?!) and will fail. The CD009 has a reverse lockout the same as the Getrag does, most aftermarket shifters either bypass this or have some clever solution with extra springs in the lockout pin. This will depend on the shifter kit you buy. FAQs Why choose a CD009 over the Getrag? Because if you manage to break it you can easily buy another one either new or from the junkyard for a fraction of the price. What do the numbers that are cast in the housing mean and can I identify my gearbox with it? The numbers are the gearbox serial and revision numbers, you can not safely identify a CD00X gearbox that way as for example a CD0 #1 is a CD009 but the CD5 #1 might not be a CD005 (it can also be CD009). The only reliable way is the sticker on the bellhousing. Which differential should I use with my CD009? One of the advantages of the CD009 is that it’s gearing is almost similar to a Getrag. This means you can use any TT6 differential. Alternatively you can use a UK spec auto 3.5 diff for a more aggressive gearing. The Jspec auto 3.7 diff is very aggressive, the Nismo 370Z runs this setup but that is a high revving NA engine that needs the gearing to have some fun with it. The other Zeds use a 3.5 final gear. How much power can a CD009 hold? The exact breaking point is unknown but the Sound Performance 350Z (twin turbo around 1000 bhp) ran repeated 9 second quarter miles for a couple of years until finally the input shaft exploded (read this on a forum so must be true ). It will hold the abuse of a single turbo street Supra no problem. Which oil do I use in my CD009? I recommend Nissan OE gearbox oil, it’s a bit of a weird viscosity (75W85) and it needs GL-4 oil as GL-5 will damage the synchros. If you do use aftermarket oil I recommend 75W90 GL-4 but make absolutely sure it’s GL-4, this oil is hard to find as almost everything in that viscosity is GL-5. The capacity is 2,9 liter. Can I modify a 350Z propshaft to fit the Supra? No, you can not. The propshaft on the Zed cars are made of carbon fibre and are too long for the Supra to fit or adapt.

The easiest swaps for the NA are as mentioned above the W58 and the R154. Both are able to utilize the stock diff ratio as well. The 6 speed options require a diff change as well except the T56/Magnum gearboxes as they have much longer gear ratios. Easy to buy new from Grannas Racing with all the right parts but somewhat more expensive. The CD009 is very strong but also very large and requires extensive modification to the trans tunnel, shifter, driveshaft, mounting and as below a solution for the speed sensor as the Z cars have them on the diff. The BMW gearboxes are easy to source but not all have a suitable ratio for the available Supra final gearing options. They are also a lot smaller than the CD009/JK40 gearboxes but require some modifications to the driveshaft, shifter and mounting point as well. Convert the signal from one of the ABS sensors to a speed output signal with a Dakota Digital converter, if you don't have ABS you need to fit either a hub with an ABS sensor or a GPS speedo unit.

Brilliant fitment and finish on all parts, a bit of a fight with the metal clips onto the rubber seals (as with most brake calipers) but still only 10-15 minutes to fully reassemble. Highly recommended.

The part number for the GT4 cable is 78180-2D390.

Mika has just provided me with these images of the EUspec Toyota Manual, thanks again to him for providing these and here they are for anyone that needs them!

Being VVTi it should be a 4 wire heated sensor M18x1,5, if I remember correctly you can use either a Camry sensor 89465-06230 or a universal Denso sensor DOX-0109 (needs to be wired in to your old plug). Check the plug on the Camry sensor on Google pictures against yours but I think it's the same one.

Hi all, I'm in the process of refurbishing and retro-fitting a B03B EU/UK spec diff in my Jspec Supra with the cooler pump. I have all the bits, ECU, relais, sensor etc. The only problem is I can not find the electrical diagrams for these items as the repair manuals online either describe the US spec or Jspec version which do not have this system. My question being; does someone on here have the workshop manuals with the specific bit of info on this system, how it operates etc? I was hoping it was just temperature switch operated but it seems it is sensor operated with the small ECU which makes it somewhat more complicated. Thanks!

I would change at least the side bearings and seals while you change the unit to a new LSD, the pinion bearing would be fine as is not necessary to be removed. You will also need a set of new crown wheel bolts as these are not reusable as per Toyota instructions. I've swapped my NA5 to a TRD LSD a few years ago and these were the part numbers: 90301-96003 O-ring x2 90366-50033 Bearing x2 90311-47008 Seal x2 90105-12219 Bolt x10 90521-34003 Axle Stub snap ring x2 41336-24020 Dust cover x2 12157-10010 Case plug washer x2 If you do decide to do the entire diff you also need: 90368-34007 Bearing x1 41231-50010 Spacer x1 90311-44005 Seal x1 90179-26005 Nut x1 90201-700(XX) Adjusting Washer (numbers are 01-42 for a 1.87 to 2.28 mm adjustment)

I really like these kind of comparisons. Objective, well documented and clearly explained. Great recommendation, thanks!

Massive job, like you say if the ball joints are in good condition it is well worth the effort. My preferred method on the hard-to-press bushings was burning them out and then cutting the metal sleeves out of the arms. Very time consuming but very rewarding as well! Remember to slightly adjust the toe-in more outward when aligning the car, the PU bushings don't like to flex as much as the OEM bushing resulting in increased tire wear when using the OEM values.

I have not bashed the tunnel as it fits without having to do that (standard MT tunnel). I did however remove most of the protruding parts of the gearbox with a grinder, especially around the front of the bellhouse. I do not see my transmission coming off while in the car as you can't reach the fasteners on top or get them out even with the gearbox tilting backwards. The size difference between a W58 and CD009 is huge.

The 3.7 auto diff ratio is suitable as the Nismo 370Z is also paired with a similar diff and the same gearbox. However the Nismo is a high revving NA which needs the shorter ratios due to a lack of torque. A BPU Supra does not need such short gears because it would just be spinning the wheels. The normal Zeds were fitted with a 3.5 ratio diff. With a 3.2 TT6 diff the CD009 is the same as the Getrag as far as gearing goes. If you go down the CD009 route I would buy the automatic bellhouse adapter style kit, even more so if you already have the auto now. The plate adapter style does work and has the pro that you do not have to cut the bellhouse from the CD009 the con is that it just barely fits the tunnel and can only be installed/removed with the engine out of the car,

I've done pretty much everything on the drivetrain/suspension side of the Supra myself but brought the diff to a specialist to install the TRD unit. You need some very specific pieces of equipment to do it correctly. The main thing is measuring the "drag" of the pinion when you're tightening the nut and crushing the washer. As well as the equipment needed to measure backlash and the ability to "read" the paint markings on the gears correctly. I'm not saying it's impossible but it's going to require a lot of money on tools, patience and trial and error to get it truly correct.

It's always hard to compare these values as some Supras run 60Ah batteries but some of the facelift cars have the 45Ah smaller terminal batteries. As well as the quality and type of battery makes a big difference, any lead-acid battery will be permanantly damaged when it drops below 12.1-12.2 Volt for a longer period of time. Dry batteries like AGM or EFB(start-stop system type) can handle this better than traditional lead-acid batteries but they will prevent the car from starting as well when dropping too low. If you have the possibility you should always connect it to a electronic charger like the CTEK units that automatically monitors and charges the battery when necessary and also shuts off when it's not. A good charger will save money in the long run. Jumpstarting the car with cables or a booster is a temporary fix as it won't save an already damaged battery when drained.

57104-24021

I'd just go with a sandwich plate as you'll probably need an oil cooler as well. The GE engine doesn't have the heat exchanger unit on the oil filter housing like the GTE. Otherwise the union bolt, either the Lexus one or just modify your own with a thread, and the oil pressure sensor are both good locations to get an oil feed for the turbo.

Exactly. The part no. I mentioned was for the screws. Don't try and push the weatherstrips down to hard either, they always stick up a little bit. Just match them with the trim part on the rear quarter windows in height.

Lower the windows and pull off the door cards, there are two screws that hold them to the door. Be sure to use the right size screwdriver as they will easily strip and you cannot replace them with normal bolts as they will hit/scratch the glass when going up and down. Another method is to make a notch with a small chisel and carefully hammer them in a anti-clockwise fashion if they do happen to strip. (Part no. 90154-60027)

I've had a non-OEM one and it was balanced/machined on the rear part instead of the front. Worked decent, timing marks were slightly off though. Also the metal isn't as hard as the OEM units, when tightening the locking tool bolts to the pulley they tend to strip rather quick.

The one with the different headlights is the Top Secret Super G-force kit. Last time I checked it's about 6k for the full bodykit. The more uncommon (some with good reason) are the Veilside Fortune and BN Sports kits if you even can get them still. Varis (same company the build the original Ridox kit for Max Orido) recently released a new bodykit called the Hurtling Solid Joker kit. Also quite pricey but I think you're still garantueed to be the first in Europe to get it. It's not widebody though. http://www.hurtling.jp/solid-joker-jza80-supra/

Very nice build, love all the attention to details!

The Supra went on a trip to Double M Carbon today, doing a roof will be a first for them and we're both very excited to see the final product! Later today I've finished a small cover for the third brake light hole, it's not mandatory on cars before '96 here in The Netherlands and I prefer the cleaner look without it.