P_Bazz

This topic is just to share some information about the tensioner pulley found on the TT6 models with the damper setup. I was looking to replace the pulley but not the tensioner itself as it's still fine. However with the steel OEM model pulleys you can just swap out the bearing and it's good to go. This pulley does not fit with the TT6 damper as it either hits the tensioner itself or the damper in front of it. Toyota does not sell the pulley separately from the tensioner and the TT6 model tensioner is fairly expensive. There is an alternative though! The pulley from most Mercedes petrol models from '98 to '08 will fit fine and it looks almost identical to the OEM unit. It also has the same diameter and width, I run a small 17mm crush washer behind the pulley to center it just a tiny bit better on the belt but the OEM unit is also not perfectly centered so you could choose to not do this. The OE Mercedes part number for the tensioner is 112 200 00 70, but you can also easily find just the pulley on either Ebay or maybe at an automotive parts store. It comes on the following models: C240 (2001-2005) | C280 (1998-2000) | C320 (2001-2005) | C43 AMG (1998-2000) | C55 AMG (2005-2006) | CL500 (2000-2006) | CL55 AMG (2001-2006) | CL500 (2000-2006) | CL55 AMG (2001-2006) | CLK320 (1998-2005) | CLK430 (1999-2003) | CLK500 (2003-2006) | CLK55 AMG (2001-2006) | CLS500 (2006) | CLK55 AMG (2001-2006) | CLS500 (2006) | CLS55 AMG (2006) | E320 (1998-2004) (2005 - 3.2 V6) | E430 (1998-2002) | E500 (2003-2006) | E55 AMG (1999-2006) | G500 (2002-2008) | G55 AMG (2003-2011) | ML320 (1998-2003) | ML350 (2003-2005) | ML430 (1999-2001) | ML500 (2002-2007) | ML55 AMG (2000-2003) | R500 (2006-2007) | S350 (2006) | S430 (2000-2006) | S500 (2000-2006) | S55 AMG (2001-2006) | SL500 (1999-2006) | SL55 AMG (2003-2008)

I do not think it's necessarily the wrong kind of attention just a coincidence that the particular viral video/meme that started the whole rage happened to contain a MKIV Supra. It's the same as always; you just happen to hear the loud kids more often than the kid who is just too nervous to ask if he may see the engine bay of a car with such status on the internet as the MKIV. Just wave and smile as you drive by!

It does not unfortunately.

We now pay the same duty costs on stuff from the UK as from the US or Japan here. The only upside is that we do not have to pay VAT on new parts but it has been a bad deal for us here in Europe with the amount of Supra parts in the UK. About 20% item value on top of the customs fee that the postal companies charge is normal. If you clearly label it as used parts it may dodge some costs for the buyer.

I'm trying to retrofit some options onto my SZ Supra and I'm looking for a few of the connectors on the body side of the car to do so: - ABS sensor connectors 4x - EU/UK spec headlight height adjustment connectors 2x - EU/UK spec dashboard headlight adjustment switch connector 1x Ideally with the full length wiring still attached but I'll manage if it comes with only a short piece of wire still attached.

Strongflex.eu in Poland produces relatively cheap bushes but I was really impressed with the fitment of the diff bushings, they state on the site that they will do them in black as well for a +50% in price. Still much cheaper than the alternative brands: https://www.strongflex.eu/en/tuleje-poliuretanowe-toyota-aristo-i/1475-211794a-rear-diff-mount-front-bush-sport-5902553518757.html I got the red "OEM" style hardness in my EUspec diff and they use the large OEM steel washers as well so you would barely see the difference between these and OEM if they are black.

The CPS sensor sends out all necessary signals, you can even run a GTE ECU with the GE/7MGTE CPS as it sends out the same G1, G2, G- and NE signals as the GTE receives from the separate sensors. Only downside is that the 7M CPS is locked in place once you drill it for mounting, but that's not really a problem with a aftermarket ECU as it's capable of changing the timing anyway.

You can download the PDFs from the Dutch forum; https://www.shoarmateam.nl/content/mkiv-supra-tsrm/

Here in the Netherlands we usually do it the other way, correcting the small plates in the reflector plates in the Jspec headlight housing. To pass APK (Dutch MOT) the light may be a US style light pattern i.e. completely flat so it's possible to just file down one of the plates and reassemble the light. The problem you now face is the EUspec lights being both glass (which makes it slightly harder to take apart) and electronically height adjustable (there may be extra MOT requirements for that function?). And another thing to keep in mind is that a headlight taken apart and reassembled is much more likely to have condensation issues. I would just bite the bullet and buy a set of either new UK spec or facelift RHD lights.

The bonnet clearance will be the main issue, not only are the GE lower runners slightly longer than the GTE ones but the actual manifold flange is higher on the cilinder head than a GTE. It might just fit under the stock bonnet but definitely not under something like the Top Secret style vented bonnets. You can clearly see that the GE ports are much more centered on the head than the GTE ones (hence the better intake flow of a GE head);

That is very good information, thanks for that! I think i'll make a 30mm spacer which bolts to the firewall and move the pedal over to the right about 18-19mm to center it on the pedal stop. Unfortunately I only received the pedal not the connector with the wiring, would you be able to take a picture or make a quick pinout schedule which of the wire colors you described goes where on the plug? I'll adjust the sensor accordingly to stay within range! I agree with you, in theory it does directly bolt on but the out-of-the-box fitment is just too much of an issue. It really should come with a JZA80 specific spacer or correctly bent pedal arm at this price point. The full DBW kit also comes with this pedal and is even more expensive! With the information from Mike I should be able to sort it out but it shouldn't be necessary.

Hi all, I've recently purchased a DBW accelerator pedal from Paul but I'm a bit puzzled about the fitment as it stated as a direct bolt on. It mounts straight to the firewall no problem but the pedal itself sits way low compared to the OEM non-VVTi one and somewhat more to the left causing it to miss and stick to the plastic stopper on the floor. It did not come with any instructions, does anyone have the same kit and also knows how it is wired up? There are 6 pins and I need at least the POS+, POS- and SGND pins according to my EMU manual but I can't seem to find the pinout for this pedal anywhere. From what I've heard it's a Lexus SC430 pedal if that helps! Link: https://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota-supra-drive-by-wire-pedal.html?___SID=U

Are these GTE or GE piston rings? If I cross reference the part number I can find only GE model cars?

The NA head is better suited to the NA headgasket because of the squish, if you're building the bottom end anyway I would reduce the compression ratio with the pistons rather than the headgasket. The squish with a TT headgasket is around 2mm which is more than ideal and will negatively impact combustion of the fuel.

I am, it is an awful colour to blend in to different panels though. The silver particles in the basecoat want to lay on top which gives a completely different colour when doing a light coat. I also considered OEM green as suggested above but it was too dark combined with my carbon fiber panels (wings, bonnet, roof, diffuser etc.)

It is not finished yet but mine has been recently resprayed in Millenium Jade, very hard to capture on camera as it looks grayish but it is definitely green. I like the Lexus colour as well but I already ordered Millenium when they announced the LC in that colour.

That is correct, it is possible to run the stock ECU alongside the EMU but that is not ideal as it is quite a lot of wires to deal with.

I changed from a AEM V2 to a EMU Black, the V2 is a fantastic ECU for the 2JZ with the ability to run the automatic gearbox but the EMU is much more modern in terms of interface, DBW options, support and accessoires. The main disadvantage of the EMU is a lack of ports in my opinion (even worse in the Classic), you lose an additional 4 H-Bridge ports to a stock IACV for example so a DBW setup is almost a must. That does give you the option to use TC, cruise control and launch control as well though. In the end you should choose an ECU that suits your application and your local mapper/tuner/dyno guy is comfortable working with.

The IS master cylinder should be a direct fit.

I can try and find a similarly sized sensor at work (auto parts store). Any mass produced European car with generic style ABS sensors will have a cheap Chinese knock-off. I need to just carefully pry my own sensor out of the hub to do so.

One of our Dutch club members had a professional screen printing sticker company make those. I'll ask how far along they are with that process but it's looking good. The only main difference with the OE sticker will be that it's all black lettering instead of R134 being silver. I believe they are also making the tire pressure sticker for the 16 & 17 inch wheels.

Could be MKIII 7MGTE 440cc injectors, those do fit in the NA fuel rail but need a resistorpack as they are low impedance injectors unlike the 2JZ GE high impedance units.

They do, part numbers 75065-19045 & 75066-19045. They're about 125 euros for the set new from Japan with all the fees, shipping etc. It's a looooong wait currently though with the low amount of passenger planes carrying cargo at the moment. So these are a good option if you can't afford to wait!

Aren't those the brackets that sit at the lock in the rear of the car? Just beneath the catch for the tailgate.