Slutters

All of this is what I meant, I was just too lazy to type it!

Lots of wrong info there...

Not direct experience but i had an old Opel Manta RWD box in my kit car, everyone said 'there crap, they will blow up above 100HP etc etc' I stuck 300BHP and a lot of abuse into it, the current owner uses it on track days... So really, you are best of just sticking it in and forgetting!

AEM at the time, both mapped the car on AEM V1.

Ok, i cannot say who caused the damage, all i am stating here is who has mapped the car. I am making NO accusations! The mappers were: Martin of MB Automotive (Road mapped) Austec Racing (Dyno mapped) I will reiterate, i have no proof and wish to make NO accusations! - - - Updated - - - Spec of car stayed exactly the same.

I have my suspicions....

My take on it was, the damage was already done, the final mapper spent a good hour or so fixing the old map and got to the point where he was doing the boost stuff, got to 1.3 bar and as he lifted of a puff of smoke and i lost a cylinder. I think the damage was already there and that final boost run pushed it over the edge.

I know what you are saying, however i won't name anyone as i cannot be sure who's map caused it. I just wanted people to chose there mapper carefully.

Indeed. Injectors are new, and were flow tested before they were fitted, fuel pressure was adjusted and evidenced marked and boost was set by the ECU. One of the mappers had used a rediculos amount of timing all over the place, 29 degrees where it needed 17 degrees.

Bad mapping. There was det in all the cylinders. - - - Updated - - - True, although detonation is preventable...

Detonation, well that was the story!

I have been through a few mappers, 3 infact, 1 on the road, 1 on the dyno and the last on a Dynapack! The last, in my opinion was the best, despite the engine going bang. This is just to show you, you get what you pay for!

Nice work!

8mm is fine, don't bother wasting money on a swirl pot, the tank already has one!

N/A does rhyme with gay though...

Thanks for all the reply's guy's, hope i can help if anyone else undertakes this! This is true, and i have seen first hand what a wet filter can do to an engine. However it is totally sealed at the bottom so if i go through any puddles i will be ok as the water cannot get into that area. This, when i was on the dyno i couldn't belive just how hot the bay was! Even the bonnet stand was boiling! I did think about making a set of 10 for people, however everyones IC mounting is slightly different. Thanks chap! Wow, Supra royalty commented! Thanks Chris, TBH i think the SMIC you make is really a better option than the FMIC, only due to the amount of work that making up the ducting and under trays takes! I didn't appreciate this at the time...

And what’s all that work worth? Well went for a ride last night and after a long run, sat idling I had temps of…. 25 degrees! Nearly halved! Dyno next week so lets hope my new mods get me some ‘free’ horsepower! Thanks for reading!

Twat! Anyway ducting on I found a place to fit the air filter I had brought an engine tray and a bumper tray but with my new mods they no longer fitted. Air flow is much better with a tray and helps to create low pressure in the engine bay. This is the gap between the fmic and rad, you can see the gap at the bottom, I would be losing lots of air from there! So, some 4mm plastic sheet! the underside Due to my air filter location I didn’t want the wheel throwing water onto the air filter, and I also wanted to use the low pressue of the wheel to pull air past the filter. As my splitter has a duct in it I also wanted to use that as otherwise it’s a waste! So… Heres the new lower mud guard. You can see the rounded gap near the inside of the wheel to help with airflow another angle inside the lower splitter duct, forcing air to the filter

Whilst taking this pic I noticed the second issue! Look how close the compressor housing is to the exhaust manifold! On big boost it must add some much heat to the already hot compressed air! So I looked around for something to help! I found a Saab 9-3 turbo heatshield, 2 bits of aluminium filled with asbestos! Yes! Gave it a clean Then fitted I know it looks a bit silly but function of form! Covered the inlet pipe also Now the intercooler and inlet is sorted I turned to the radiator. I had AC but never had it gassed. I have removed the rad but left all the pipes so if the next owner wants it, its just a case of 4 bolts and a re-gas. Intercooler removed showing the old AC rad, that can’t help airflow! in the next pics you can see all the gaps around the radiator, as air goes for the path of least resistance I was losing some cooling potential here. Bottom left bottom bottom right And aluminium taped up, 3 layers so its strong and forces the air through the rad instead of going around it! Also I noticed this gap at the top added some foam Started refitting up Intercooler back on with rubber seals where the ducting meets the edges just about to fit the ducting and my mate Dan has trolled me!

Hi guys Wanted to share this set of mods with you, mostly because I was unaware of the improvements that could be made! Firstly, thanks to: http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost - lots of detailed info, even Supra stuff on there! No BS, just simple, easy to read info! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?197330-FMIC-ducting-install – the inspiration! Firstly here is a screen shot of the issue. This was on a 20 degree Celsius day, no boost just stop start driving! 52 degrees! Ouch! The point being, this heat is going to heatsoak the intercooler before you even consider the massive load the boost will add! The sensor is located right on the throttle body so is a true reflection of what is going on. So after much reading I set about reducing my inlet temps, this is the story! This is how my single setup looked, very similar to many others I have seen! You can see the black ducting I had to the left, it was clearly going nothing. This was my previous ducting, it was a quick bodge, you can see how much air flow I was wasting when you compare it to the pic with no bumper. So, with the bumper off, I set about removing some of the ‘funnel’ to increase my expansion chamber after The ducting I made, its made from very thin steel, I will be getting it re-made but I only have a mig. It’s fairly light, not as light as aluminium but better than no ducting! All the tiny joins were sealed too. Next up I wanted to get the air filter out of the bay, I did want to get rid of the K&N after seeing just how bad they were on the MaxBoost website, however my commercial paper replacement was a little…err….too big! Whoops! So, back to the K&N for a few months until I fine a smaller paper commercial filter. Wanted some more airflow to the filter so some more came off the bumper Also, had to make a 4.5” hole in the inner wing, not what I wanted to do but I had no choice. gasket added I used this for the inlet pipe, its suitable for 100 degrees and 6 bar so plenty for an inlet i then lagged this with industrial pipe lagging and sealed with aluminium tape. No **** taking, I know it looks like a big hover…

Your damaging your engine.

Should have sold the misses!

This..

Another 'Yes' from me! They feel miles better than the HKS Hypermax's? i had on my old R34.

There is simply no point, apart from the noise! Maybe buy an old RS Turbo!