Slutters

I think it's a good call getting some oil coolers for the engine if you have ambitious targets. I was considering using a liquid/liquid exchanger but it added to much complexity and required a radiator upgrade etc.

As i said, i will be adding one for underbonnet temps.

Thanks mate, i did think of doing that also, however i didn't want to pre-heat the water radiator with the oil cooler's waste air. Big HP requires lots of cooling, those 2 oil coolers are both 20,000BTU so only really JUST big enough!

Just to add, my duct sits inside of the orignal bumper mouth like: So hopefully that edge would prevent the loss of air, however i guess that as the molecules stack up and they reduce in speed to pass through the core you will lose some.

It's a 600MM wide core, on the dyno we had to turn off the fans as the inlet temps were so low and Sam needed to get some more heat into the core! A turbo blanket would make no difference in my application with regards to intake temps as the filter is out of the engine bay. I will be adding one however for under bonnet temps as you say.

That's true, however how can you create the bottom picture on the horizontal plane without reducing frontal area?

Made it myself mate, no need for any special tool's as long as you get a nice clean straight cut it's easy as pie!

Block is now waiting for some new forged pistons! Head is scrap Just ordered all the engine parts so while i was waiting i stripped out the plugs i no longer needed from the loom before After Scrap Also took the chance to do some porting on my wastegate as it was boost creeping And added some new oil coolers! Rubber mounted Bumper trimmed and ducted Well! That's it for now, lots of updates to come, all the new engine bits are here now. Just waiting on machine work.

Old at the top Vs the new monstors! Full guide comes with the kit Loom in Igniter removed New loom Soldering to old loom Joining car loom to Mojo All finished and ignitor gone All was going well! Car went for mapping And well.... it blew up So the next day... Not looking great Ahh, thats the issue then...

Moved the battery to the boot Fuel rail and injector bosses welded in New Water/Meth injection tank Water injection kit and thinker inlet manifold gaskets Old OEM vs new ones Rail painted and injectors installed And all finished! Fitting water injection kit Welded a plate to the end of the chassis leg Water injection nozzle Next up was my coil pack upgrade Old ingnitor Removing the old injectors Mojo Coilpacks!

I had brought an engine tray and a bumper tray but with my new mods they no longer fitted. Air flow is much better with a tray and helps to create low pressure in the engine bay. This is the gap between the fmic and rad, you can see the gap at the bottom, I would be losing lots of air from there! So, some 4mm plastic sheet! the underside Due to my air filter location I didn’t want the wheel throwing water onto the air filter, and I also wanted to use the low pressue of the wheel to pull air past the filter. As my splitter has a duct in it I also wanted to use that as otherwise it’s a waste! So… Heres the new lower mud guard. You can see the rounded gap near the inside of the wheel to help with airflow another angle inside the lower splitter duct, forcing air to the filter And what’s all that work worth? Well went for a ride last night and after a long run, sat idling I had temps of…. 25 degrees! Nearly halved! Dyno next week so lets hope my new mods get me some ‘free’ horsepower! Right, with mapping due in a few days i decided to do the last few changes ready. Gave the inlet a clean for the injector bungs to be welded in HKS Fuel rail O ring! Leaking! Inlet removed TC Delete Painting up the new inlet

bottom right And aluminium taped up, 3 layers so its strong and forces the air through the rad instead of going around it! Also I noticed this gap at the top added some foam Started refitting up Intercooler back on with rubber seals where the ducting meets the edges just about to fit the ducting and my mate Dan has trolled me! Twat! Anyway ducting on I found a place to fit the air filter

Whilst taking this pic I noticed the second issue! Look how close the compressor housing is to the exhaust manifold! On big boost it must add some much heat to the already hot compressed air! So I looked around for something to help! I found a Saab 9-3 turbo heatshield, 2 bits of aluminium filled with asbestos! Yes! Gave it a clean Then fitted I know it looks a bit silly but function of form! Covered the inlet pipe also Now the intercooler and inlet is sorted I turned to the radiator. I had AC but never had it gassed. I have removed the rad but left all the pipes so if the next owner wants it, its just a case of 4 bolts and a re-gas. Intercooler removed showing the old AC rad, that can’t help airflow! in the next pics you can see all the gaps around the radiator, as air goes for the path of least resistance I was losing some cooling potential here. Bottom left bottom

Right guys, bit of an update since last time! Hi guys Wanted to share this set of mods with you, mostly because I was unaware of the improvements that could be made! Firstly, thanks to: http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost - lots of detailed info, even Supra stuff on there! No BS, just simple, easy to read info! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?197330-FMIC-ducting-install – the inspiration! Firstly here is a screen shot of the issue. This was on a 20 degree Celsius day, no boost just stop start driving! 52 degrees! Ouch! The point being, this heat is going to heatsoak the intercooler before you even consider the massive load the boost will add! The sensor is located right on the throttle body so is a true reflection of what is going on. So after much reading I set about reducing my inlet temps, this is the story! This is how my single setup looked, very similar to many others I have seen! You can see the black ducting I had to the left, it was clearly going nothing. This was my previous ducting, it was a quick bodge, you can see how much air flow I was wasting when you compare it to the pic with no bumper. So, with the bumper off, I set about removing some of the ‘funnel’ to increase my expansion chamber after The ducting I made, its made from very thin steel, I will be getting it re-made but I only have a mig. It’s fairly light, not as light as aluminium but better than no ducting! All the tiny joins were sealed too. Next up I wanted to get the air filter out of the bay, I did want to get rid of the K&N after seeing just how bad they were on the MaxBoost website, however my commercial paper replacement was a little…err….too big! Whoops! So, back to the K&N for a few months until I fine a smaller paper commercial filter. Wanted some more airflow to the filter so some more came off the bumper Also, had to make a 4.5” hole in the inner wing, not what I wanted to do but I had no choice. gasket added I used this for the inlet pipe, its suitable for 100 degrees and 6 bar so plenty for an inlet i then lagged this with industrial pipe lagging and sealed with aluminium tape. No **** taking, I know it looks like a big hover…

Hi mate The lagging is industrial pipe insulation made by Wabesto and the silver foil is the tape for joining it togther. You can get it from screwfix etc. Cheers!

Hi mate Best thing for reducing inlet temps is good ducting, it made a massive difference of over 30 degrees on mine! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?291582-FMIC-Ducting-and-IAT-cooling-mods! I am also running water injection, more as a safety feature than a cooling one for me.

That's why you set a boost limit on the ECU....

Idle only, however i have lumpy cams so it may just be them that make it sound worse. Defiantly street-able, ask Paul, i think all the new Spec kits come with an upgrade mater cylinder now.

Exactly the same one as me! You need an larger clutch master cylinder or it will not disengage, also move the clutch switch for the cruise control outward as that will stop it disengaging also. It's quite an easy clutch to drive with. Downshifts are quite harsh if you don't rev match but its quite easy to drive and slip at lights etc. Only issue being is the rattle! Sounds like a bag of spanners! But all of them are like that. I would recommend them, despite there reputation and the above comments.

Should sue for deformation of character......

Lol!

Hi guys Thanks for the comments, i will keep everyone upto date on how things are going, donations by Feb next year, i am putting in over £2000 of my money in to. If anyone wants to send any donations via Paypal, i will add these to the pot and send you the confirmation email from the MyDonations website. Just so you know i am not buying Supra bits... Paypal is [email protected] Thanks!

Hi guys! Going to Nairobi in Kenya next year, i am part of a small group who are re-building and expanding a primary school. This is a really small charity and all the money that is raised goes there with me. No admin fee's, no people taking there cut. The way it should be! Anyway, i am making a proposal! When we build this school, i am going to get a plaque made and i will attached it to the school so those guys know where the moneys coming from! Hell, we are even taking computers for the kids so we will get some more members too! Rough pic attached.... I have set a target of £500 so if anyone has a few pounds to spare, i would appreciate it! I have a donating webpage here: https://mydonate.bt.com/fundraisers/adamrutland1 Or if you prefer paypal the address is: [email protected] I will then transfer the money to the MyDonations site send you the confirmation email straight away. Help me help some people, and help our forum get to Kenya! Thanks for all your help, i will also be selling some Supra parts for donations also!

And fit a FMIC like that guy on here did! Genius!

The top water neck needs welding really, to give a professional finish. The 2 vacuum pipes go to the catch tank. The metal bits are welded to the water pipe so you have to remove that first to cut them off. Looking good!