Slutters

The stock master is 5/8" and mine is now 3/4", I think a lot of the aftermarket kits now come with them, can you see that causing any issues apart from overstoking?

I had issues getting my Spec Super Twin plate clutch to engage gears correctly, in the end I fitted a 3/4 Master cylinder so It moves more fluid and its been fine!

Awesome work man!

Make sure you change your dwell settings if you have a aftermarket ECU.

Hi guys I have put this in my project thread but wanted to give it a separate thread as coil pack issues seem fairly common. I got these from the states, and of all the mods i have fitted, these were the best and had the most comprehensive instructions. These allow you to run a big gap even on high boost producing a better burn and seem so far to be doing the job! Mojo Coilpacks! Old at the top Vs the new monstors! Full guide comes with the kit Loom in Igniter removed New loom Soldering to old loom Joining car loom to Mojo All finished and ignitor gone

No chance! Like sitting on the brake pedal after going for a thrash?

Damm that look's amazing!

Or drill....

Lol!

It will only drop in value really, look at Mk3 Supra's....

A £5 multi-meter is all you need mate.

I moved to a Cosworth style sensor on my setup as it is insulated from the mounting body. This means I measures the air temp and not the pipe temp.

Mines around 25 degree's normal driving.

Your better of selling that used pot of paint in the pictures...

52 degrees before mods, 25 degrees after mods. With the dyno fans on, it was cooling the inlet charge so much we had to turn them off to get some heat into the core!

Indeed, alas driver's side should help so its out of the kerb, however Mk2 version coming soon.

Don't do that... Do you mean the convex end fitting on the end of the pipe, make sure you have a concave fitting in the filter...

Dry the fuel up with a lighter.

Think AQ are tested to that pressure already and made of aluminium!

But then it would miss the ducting and just go through the bumper gap? I don't understand as the pressure at the front of the car is so high, how would the air reverse its direction, it would be easier for the air to go upwards into the top of the ducting rather than reverse.

Intresting, been looking at race car's and they seem to follow what your saying also....

Mental! I know a guy who used an mech capilary oil pressure gauge on his brand new AC Cobra replica build, with plastic feed, ran next to his exhaust manifold.... Well it melted.... Fire. Lots.

Good work mate!

No mate, none of them should need tape!

All the 'AN' thing is, is a standard of a fitting. Came about after the war, lots of surplus and then they have worked there way onto cars! Genuine Aeroquip has passed specific test for the 'aero' industry, hence being so expensive. The stuff from china is copy's of that, but without the tests, or quality base material. In terms of failure, it is in general the cheaper stuff that fails. Seats have been known to crack and leak and the threads on the cheaper stuff can be poor. I personally use genuine Aeroquip on anything that is critical such as oil or fuel. Then you can cheap out on the rest. e.g i have a Chinese AN8 90 degree on the servo vacuum feed. I think, short of using a good base material you would be pressed to improve on it. I mean the fittings are smooth internally, consistent in internal size and require no additional sealing on the threads.