Slutters

I would go for something simple, if your only racing the car there's no point having lots of maps etc. I have gone with HKS F Con V Pro 3.4 this is can do most of the stuff that the Syvecs can, and is also cheaper. You can also get it mapped by one of the best mappers in the country, if not the best. What power did it make at the hubs?

Nice!

Wow! 2.7Bar and 9k RPM! Mental! I have a question for you Tim, with regards to the piston pins, how exactly do they get lubrication? I know the stock rods have an oil passage that goes through the rod, however these new Eagles don't. They have a drilling either side of the little end so I imagine its splash feed via the under piston jet's? Also with regard to the ARP's rod bolts, I had to install them 3 times, first to seat the bearings, 2nd to Plasti gauge, and last time to fit them, I did measure a 0.01mm difference between stage 1 and 2 but would you consider replacing? Thanks Adam

Cheers mate!

Hatching: Installing the rod bearings: And pistons all fitted! Plastiguage’d the rods, all were 0.50MM And checked rod thrust clearance which was 0.34mm Rods all connected and tourqed! 43ft’lbs Next up fitting the oil pump: Brand new from Toyota Pressed the seal in (Don’t go to deep, should be level with the housing) Also fitted my turbo feed blank, Turbo feed and water tap That’s it for today folks!

Hi guys Update time! So I cracked open the box on the rods today, I went with the 3/8” ARP2000 bolts so they should be good for plenty of power. Now I know the eagle’s are cheap and here’s why: Hard to see in the pics but the small end where the gudjon pin slides through has been bored but not finished. The cross hatch is spot on, there is just a few small burs where the rods have not been hand finished. These burs cause the pin to feel tight. So I label and stripped the rods: You can see the high spots here: Then with some 1000 grit wet and dry you just want to take the edge off, it is barely 2 or 3 rubs but it is enough to make the pin slide in and not catch on the burs. Do not touch the inner bush, just the very outside edge. If you did not do this you could risk the pin sezing in the rod as it heats up. After that give it a good clean, a REALLY good clean and then your ready to fit the pistons! Make sure you work out the direction of the pistons, the bigger cut outs are for the inlet. Next up fit 1 pin lock Then a good helping of assembly lube Then fit the rod, should be a nice push fit. Fit the second clip And done! Repeat for all 6! (I however had a pack of clips missing so will have to wait till they arrive) You also need to set the ring gap directions now. Just a quick random pic, I wanted to check out the ovalrity of the ARP Mains and I am glad to say there was none, it was consistent around the pin. Anyway, pistons are now ready to fit! (Bar 1) I had left the sealing grease on the bores to stop any corrosion, I removed it at the last minute to avoid any corrosion. (Notice No2 bore still has the coating)

Sounds like a good rig there mate! Would have got you to do the bore work had I known. Takes a long time to find people to trust though, some machine shops like to add 0.10 for 'safety'

Cheers Tim The Rods have been line bored for the ARP's, but I will check them anyway. I did read about the torque plates, however what about the gearbox? It's a massive weight on one end of the engine and must be causing much more distortion than the head studs for example?

You know, that thing that always costs a little 'extra'.....

Will fail an MOT on split boot's now.

Thanks chaps!

Was it like: or: http://www.365astronomy.com/images/Konus-Konuspace-4-Refractor-Telescope-1729.jpg

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You do, it's in the middle, far right....

A sneaky edit...

A selection, a different one on each wheel?

http://www.mochabeaniemummy.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Dildo-Decorating.jpg

Hi guys Any of our traders offer this as a service? Want my pair of covers polishing up.

Hi guys Anyone brought any Wiseco Pistons from the UK? Or know of any distributors? In need of a set of piston pin clips by the end of the week. Part no W5590. Thanks

No mate, checked the Oval'arity with the Platic-gauge and it was the same. Laid it on straight over the pin.

Crank bolted in and oil clearances checked: All the clearances were 0.023-0.025mm: All bolted back together after adding assembly lube and torqued up for the last time, while i was there i checked the crank nose movement: Was 0.100mm so all ok Next update we have these!

Sorting out the bearings, (ACL rods and thrust's were put of stock) New tool i got for the job! Cleaned out the oil squirters: Added some Redline Assembly lube to the bases (It looks like i put thread lock on them from the pic! but rest assured thats just for the bolts that hold them on) Fitted: Next up the ARP mains: And threadlocked in, also fitted the ACL Race uppers and thrusts: Cleaned up the main caps And cleaned the crank Plasti-gauge strips in to check oil clearnces: Redline assembly lube and ARP Molly grease

Hi guys! I have a project thread on the go but wanted to add this as a separate thread as it might be useful! Anyway, first a big thanks to Sam Borgman from TDI South, the man is a fountain of knowledge and a thoroughly genuine and honest guy. Also TLicense and his thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?171026-TLicense-Engine-Build So, after a spot of crap mapping by a retard my engine was reduced to: So a plan was hatched i decided i wanted 800HHP, as i saw a video about the Titan Supra and they said it was an idea street figure and many users on here have said the same. I wanted to do all the build myself, the only bits i haven't done are the machining, i spoke to loads of people and it was a real struggle to find someone who could get it EXACTLY how i wanted it, and not adding 0.10mm 'for safety' In the end i went with a company in Soham called Ivor Searle and despite the manager being a grumpy sod it was exactly what i asked for, i think i offended him when i got out my dial bore gauge, calipers, Micrometer and feeler gauges to check his work. Thing is, the engine is only as good as the machine work! I got them to: * Machine and hone out bore's to exactly - Pistons size + 0.059mm or 59 Microns - Pistons are numbered * Hone to be started with 200 and then platue it off with a 380 * Dip/Clean Block * Dip/Clean Cylinder head * Check head face and skim if required * 3 Angle Valve seats and valves and lap (Spare valves in box) * Install Valve Stem seals, Titanium retainers and upgrade springs from box * Install cams and adjust clearances (Additional shims in box or cut valves) * Inlet clearance - Minimum 0.254mm - 0.3050mm * Exhaust Cleaner - Minimum 0.3048 - 0.3556mm That little lot was £712 which was not too bad in my opinion. Anyway this is the engine spec: OEM oil pump Top water neck Full OEM Engine gasket kit Crankshaft Timing Gear ACL Race Rod Bearings ACL Race Main Bearings ACL Race Thrust Washer Set Eagle Rods Wiseco Forged 86.5mm Pistons ARP Mains ARP Heads That was £2300 ish with a few other bits also not in the list. So with that in mind, lets start: Old engine stripped: Two weeks later: So i checked the bore sizes, overlarity and squarness and all was ok. Next up a lick of paint And primer'ed Forgot to take any of the color going on, but i chose a color that add's 20HP Red.... Anyway, next up fitting the core plugs, you use a small amount of thread lock/sealer while driving them in:

It's your call, and i don't think anyone will tell you its fine as it's a safety issue really. I wouldn't, just imagine if you need to swerve quick and cant because the steerings tight. Not worth spending the rest of your days regretting something for the sake of a decat...

Thanks Chris, just wanted to check.