bluedrag

does it just unbolt and then get a fitting for the new manifold and bolt it back up? i thought they needed water lines run to them though?

does it just unbolt and then get a fitting for the new manifold and bolt it back up? i thought they needed water lines run to them though?

does it just unbolt and then get a fitting for the new manifold and bolt it back up? i thought they needed water lines run to them though?

isnt the IACV in front of the trottle body on a NA? the left hand of the two plug fittings on this image?

its just a cheap ebay manifold but it doesnt have the flange on it, do you have the part number of the IACV that you used for yours? thanks

hey guys ive finished my NA-T a while a go now but looking at going to a front facing intake however the one that i bought has no location for a IACV do i need to run one for a street car for starters if so whats the easiest way to go about getting one put onto this manifold ive got? any help is much appreciated =)

hey guys ive finished my NA-T a while a go now but looking at going to a front facing intake however the one that i bought has no location for a IACV do i need to run one for a street car for starters if so whats the easiest way to go about getting one put onto this manifold ive got? any help is much appreciated =)

In what regard david?

Ok im quite sure that this has probably been conversed to death on the forums but i need a fast answer so ill ask anyway after explaining my situation i have a 2jzge motor that i am rebuilding to a NA-T hoping to make around 600-700hp on my w58 gearbox now standard a clutch wont handle this kind of power so ive been looking into getting a heavy puk clutch to handle the extra torque but what is the difference between the 2jzge (w58) and gte (r154) flywheel? i know they are the same diameter and both single mass, but is there a difference in the contact area of the clutch? eg:the ge has a raised section for clutch contact wheras r154 plate has a flat surface flywheel? and if they are the same is there a way of making a hybrid w58/r154 presure plate/clutch plate combo that will allow for more torque? also before anyone says get rid of the w58 etc etc, i am well aware that they are the weakest of the 2jz gearboxes but at this moment in time the gearbox is out of my price range here but i will get to it one day, its not going to be thrashed (much) anyway cheers in advance for the help

No link ecu is full replacement but was Plug in version meaning it should just plug in and work

ok guys i have done my NA-T conversion and have had a link ecu installed, now since having it installed my A/C no longer engages, due to the relay not functioning properly i have established that both sides of the relay have 12v running to them when only one side should, firstly has anyone come across this issue before? and if so where was the power to the wrong side back feeding from? on a seperate note i have a whole array of warning lights from my ODO cluster that shows up when they are plugged in and the master warning light is on, as soon as i disconnect the ODO cluster plug the master goes out and in theory there is no more short, if someone has a wiring diagram of the interior section or of the whole car that would be fantastic, and before you commenters comment with "use the search Function" i have and have been unable to find what i need hence my reason for asking any help is much appreciated cheers

i dont know whether this makes any difference but my air con is now not engaging either? i checked the altenator and its still charging fine, i will double check all the main earths just to be sure nothing has come loose during tinkering, but i cant see how that might affect the air con as well? or am i just over complicating things and air con is seperate altogether?

Hey guys, so ive mostly finished my NA-T conversion and its running and driveable etc, however in the last couple of days it has started doing weird things with warning lights, firstly it was just the warning light in the centre of the tacho and the oil level light, it would come on at low rpm and flicker, when i gave it a few revs it went away, now however it comes on and stays on but now it has brought friends namely the battery/cat temp/ and tail light warning lights all flicker and stay on after ive reset the fault codes has anyone come across this phenominom before? if so how do i fix it?? thanks in advance

sorry for my ignorance but what does the syveks / syveks dial do exactly?? other than that very nice car man keep it up =)

this is one sexy ass car!!

looking good mate, let me know what the difference in power is like between the log and flow style manifolds

Internal engine Mods (inc head work, cams etc): OEM Compression Mods: OEM Turbo Choice: AR.70 Wastegate: HKS COPY 38mm 7psi spring (may be changing to hks 50mm) BOV: SSQ Copy intake manifold: OEM Induction: 4" K&N Exhaust (size + make) inc manifold: XS Power Manifold + 3" full custom stainless engine management: Link G4 Plug-in ecu 3 Bar map sensor Injectors: OEM currently changing to 550cc Denso's before i got for next map Ignition mods: 4runner dizzy cap any other electrical supporting mods: Boost Guage, AFM guage, Oil pressure guage mapped by: Initial tune done by Infomotive, (New Zealand) gearbox: W58 clutch: CI Heavy Duty Power: 250kw ATW (350ish HP at 14 psi) Torque: Acording to Dyno Sheet like 900nm but i think thats wrong Boost pressure:14 psi (over boosting currently i think WG is broken ) Date converted:Ongoing Problems during build (or least favourite part ): Kit didnt all fit together nicely most things needed small modifications to fit, wastegate not working properly any running issues encountered: Over Boosting Currently, link imposed 4600rpm limiter so as not to damage internals, ongoing issues with this

ok well ive tried running vac lines to both top and side of wastegate and neither made any difference and i also tried with the boost controller out of the vac lines altogether, someone suggested that i try restricting the exhaust and hoping the the resulting back pressure slows the turbine because it cant get the waste out fast enough? any thoughts on this idea?

nope im positive it has a 7psi spring changed it myself from the 9 psi one that it came with

i will try with a friends wastegate maybe then and see if the beter gate makes a difference as it is more than likely some cheap ass chinese copy (no offence to any chinese people) if that wokrs ill either have to buy his spare or fork out for a decent one myself, thanks for the help guys will keep you posted

hi Rich, yes its 4 bolt style, ill look into the hks

hey guys just after some opinions on what size wastegate i should be using for my NA-T build, only wanting to run 8-10 psi at most and currently im overboosting to 15psi at 5000rpm any ideas or suggestions? im currently running a 38mm external gate but do you think that is big enough? any help is appreciated =)

ok so i know this may not be the right sectioin for this question but tonight i discovered i had blown a low beam headlight bulb, now this wouldn't be an issue if i knew where to get a replacement bulb that isnt $80 ea from toyota NZ I know they have a HB3 conector but the standard hb3's that i have tried dont fit because the centre mount is too round is there a different part number or bulb that will still plug in and fit that someone can point me to? cheers

ok thanks for everyones help i have discovered that the clowns who i got to plumb my wastegate into my downpipe only drilled a 16mm hole and welded a 40mm pipe over the top =( not what i expected from an exhaust specialist shop, however problem has been found and am now getting it done properly by a friend who makes manifolds etc

are you going to brace your manifold with that massive turbo on it? if so where are you bracing to?