bluedrag

does it just unbolt and then get a fitting for the new manifold and bolt it back up? i thought they needed water lines run to them though?

does it just unbolt and then get a fitting for the new manifold and bolt it back up? i thought they needed water lines run to them though?

does it just unbolt and then get a fitting for the new manifold and bolt it back up? i thought they needed water lines run to them though?

isnt the IACV in front of the trottle body on a NA? the left hand of the two plug fittings on this image?

its just a cheap ebay manifold but it doesnt have the flange on it, do you have the part number of the IACV that you used for yours? thanks

hey guys ive finished my NA-T a while a go now but looking at going to a front facing intake however the one that i bought has no location for a IACV do i need to run one for a street car for starters if so whats the easiest way to go about getting one put onto this manifold ive got? any help is much appreciated =)

hey guys ive finished my NA-T a while a go now but looking at going to a front facing intake however the one that i bought has no location for a IACV do i need to run one for a street car for starters if so whats the easiest way to go about getting one put onto this manifold ive got? any help is much appreciated =)

In what regard david?

Ok im quite sure that this has probably been conversed to death on the forums but i need a fast answer so ill ask anyway after explaining my situation i have a 2jzge motor that i am rebuilding to a NA-T hoping to make around 600-700hp on my w58 gearbox now standard a clutch wont handle this kind of power so ive been looking into getting a heavy puk clutch to handle the extra torque but what is the difference between the 2jzge (w58) and gte (r154) flywheel? i know they are the same diameter and both single mass, but is there a difference in the contact area of the clutch? eg:the ge has a raised section for clutch contact wheras r154 plate has a flat surface flywheel? and if they are the same is there a way of making a hybrid w58/r154 presure plate/clutch plate combo that will allow for more torque? also before anyone says get rid of the w58 etc etc, i am well aware that they are the weakest of the 2jz gearboxes but at this moment in time the gearbox is out of my price range here but i will get to it one day, its not going to be thrashed (much) anyway cheers in advance for the help

No link ecu is full replacement but was Plug in version meaning it should just plug in and work

ok guys i have done my NA-T conversion and have had a link ecu installed, now since having it installed my A/C no longer engages, due to the relay not functioning properly i have established that both sides of the relay have 12v running to them when only one side should, firstly has anyone come across this issue before? and if so where was the power to the wrong side back feeding from? on a seperate note i have a whole array of warning lights from my ODO cluster that shows up when they are plugged in and the master warning light is on, as soon as i disconnect the ODO cluster plug the master goes out and in theory there is no more short, if someone has a wiring diagram of the interior section or of the whole car that would be fantastic, and before you commenters comment with "use the search Function" i have and have been unable to find what i need hence my reason for asking any help is much appreciated cheers

i dont know whether this makes any difference but my air con is now not engaging either? i checked the altenator and its still charging fine, i will double check all the main earths just to be sure nothing has come loose during tinkering, but i cant see how that might affect the air con as well? or am i just over complicating things and air con is seperate altogether?

Hey guys, so ive mostly finished my NA-T conversion and its running and driveable etc, however in the last couple of days it has started doing weird things with warning lights, firstly it was just the warning light in the centre of the tacho and the oil level light, it would come on at low rpm and flicker, when i gave it a few revs it went away, now however it comes on and stays on but now it has brought friends namely the battery/cat temp/ and tail light warning lights all flicker and stay on after ive reset the fault codes has anyone come across this phenominom before? if so how do i fix it?? thanks in advance

sorry for my ignorance but what does the syveks / syveks dial do exactly?? other than that very nice car man keep it up =)

this is one sexy ass car!!