scott87

Ok thanks. Everything i have read said its open with the engine off. Then when i started the engine in was in the same position. So i assumed it was open at idle and closed when you started driving and then opened back up again.

So can anyone confirm what I need to do. The valve is open when at idle. Then at high rpm or load the valve closes? So I need to force the valve to be in the open state?

Thanks Abz. New calipers are being refurbed and painted so will see if that cures it when I swap em over.

Wouldn't that be a noise under loads of scenarios? My calliper was sticking and is being replaced but it just seems odd to not make the noise at other times.

What just a noise the clutch made? Did it die down or did you just live with it?

You dont need a machine. Bridge e1 and te1 in the diag port in the engine bay. Turn the egnition on but dont start and then count the flashes.

Any error codes? Mine turned out to be ht leads and water moisture.

It doesnt sound like the clutch pedal. Its really difficult to identify. It seems to only be from a standing start. Will only do it if i try and ease away slowly but doesnt seem to change noise if i accidently make the car judder (competition clutch) so im inclined to think its not the clutch plate. It also doesn't sound anything like any release bearing noise ive heard before.

You can hear it towards the end of the video. It is like a chirping sort of sound.....

Thats not why im doing it, it'd stay if it could. It is causing issues when opening under high boost so it has to go. My inlet is being completely changed anyway so there will be no split intake system anymore soon anyway. This is just a temp fix to stop the 'noise' we are getting when the valve opens.

So with the engine idling and off the valve should be in which state? I need to force it to be open all of the time to stop the spike that i am getting as now i have boost this is causing problems. Im custom making an inlet so in the meantime i have a little plate that i am going to use to stop the valves operation.

Yer thats the one. Great thanks. So if adjust the bracket i made to hold it in the position the valve is in when the engine is off the acis will stay open permanently.

Sorry i mean in the open position with the engine off. then close once the vacuum has established after starting the car.

After a moment of doubt can someone please confirm what position the acis valve is in with the engine off? I assumed it would be in the closed position but am now doubting that.

Temporary modification to my acis valve whilst i fabricate my new inlet. Allows me to adjust how much its open but in honesty i just need it open all the time.

Engine 3000cc Straight 6 2JZ-GE T61 Turbo External screamer and wastegate 7.5psi XS power turbo manifold 3" v-band downpipe Custom 2.75" exhaust 3" 2nd decat Oil filter sandwich plate Oil feed and oil drain lines Stock 330 injectors Stock fuelpump Stock compression Large 3" FMIC 3" Intercooler pipework 5" intake pipe 5" K&N Filter BKR7E plugs Toyota 4 Runner dizzy cap No2 lead to replace no1 lead Drivetrain W58 5spd manual competition clutch stage 4 A01A Diff Suspension, Wheels, Tyres & Brakes Stock na suspension Jspec Brakes 17" oem alloys Electronics Ecu Masters Det 3 (onboard map sensor) Mechanical boost gauge Hoping for around 350bhp but not too fussed as its quick. Problems Aem fic6 ecu just was a nightmare to use, couldnt get it running on my car properly. Signals needed resistors in place on my new ecu to tidy the Toyota signal. Acis valve is causing det at high rpm when that opens. Going to remove this imminently. Car is currently overboosting to about 10psi so need to get this down as running stock compression. Fuel cut has been put in place to avoid overboosting. Pros Offboost my car is completely stock and just like a na

Any room for movement on price?

Low! Hahaha it is running, just one more mapping session needed

I'm in Coventry so not far.....

Stock compression, uprated plugs, about 7.5psi and stock injectors. Looking for anything from 340 to 400. Will get it on the rollers once all is finished. But im not too fussed on the figures. Its bloody fast and still drives as an na off boost

I don't want a 6 speed

Also the car will be getting a belt change, water pump, underseal and some new suspension parts too. Another mapping session is happening very soon too

Then today i have spent the day painting engine components and the intercooler pipe/throttle body. Went for black to try and get as stock a look as possible. Also painted the grill and the rain guard in the bonnet but have missed a tiny bit round the edge in one place which will drive me mad but it was getting too cold to do this bit again. Didnt realise until the masking had been removed. Also relocated the sensors etc that the king lead plugs into.

Spent friday at Dynodaze fitting my competition clutch stage 4. Makes for a very juddery weird pull in first if you get it wrong pulling away but i'll just get used to it over time. Very light though, just very much all or nothing with the biting.

Ooh rebuilding a w58. I'm for updates on this