scott87

Snap Thanks very much. Sure i need to leave feedback for other people. If you know who you are speak up now!

For that money i would go with Hankook or the GT's, but so far the GT's are definitely out performing the Hankooks! Really chuffed with em. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/GT-Radial/Champiro-HPX.htm

Had a search but cant find it, how do you leave feedback as a seller to the buyer and vice versa.

If anyone is close to Coventry and has a spare sensor and some tools (I had mine pinched)! it would be a great help. Desperately need my car as its a daily and at the moment its not really useable in its full retard mode

GT champiros on the rear, blindingly good and around £88 a tyre! Then i have continentals up front which do a good job in the dry but not so great in the wet.

Sorry its the rear crank knock sensor. My question is now. What should i do..... I have removed the plug and cleaned it and checked the wiring which is all intact. The sensor itself also looks to be in good condition but this means nothing really. I removed the battery terminal to reset the ecu after doing this but the warning light came on again. Should i: a) Replace the sensor - Seems to be rare for these to fail b) Check the plugs to see if any are white for a lean running cylinder, b2) Then check the injectors/injector o rings? c) None of the above. I also have a slightly dodgy ignitor however this hasnt played up for the last week although i cant see how this would affect the problem im having. The entire ignition system was also replaced a little over half a year ago so this is all in tip top condition. I should add the car is feeling a tad sluggish now when the warning light is on but i assume this is because the retard timing has been set to maximum to protect the engine.

Ok i know where the knock sensor is meant to be, but i really am struggling to see it? Has anyone done this job before, preferably someone local to possibly lend a hand so i can check the integrity of the wiring between the ecu and the sensor. Also after some reading i have noticed people commenting that faulty wiring for this or the sensor being duff can lead to a reduced fuel efficiency? Is this correct as my mpg has reduced somewhat over the past few weeks?!

Have just been out and pulled code 55. Looks to be rear crank sensor, guessing thats either a dodgy connection or on the way out.

Hmm hope not i bought an alternator not that many months ago

So close , ok now to find a paperclip! Ill post my findings once tea has been had....

Um no, unless they are fault but then that would be an exhaust rattle. I mentioned by decat as the exhaust has a lower tone and thus give off more vibration so the interior rattles got more noticeable, but they were there before, they are just worse now! Decatting an n/a is good for performance and sound, not good for passing emission tests.

What do you bridge to pull up error codes? Is it Bp and f+ (I think), like in the mr2?

Mine came in at much lower revs than that, but stayed on, granted i didnt rev above 3500 to see if it went off again at high revs as i was nursing the car home.....

Does the rattle sound like its coming from in the car as the dash and trim would be my first place to check, every toyota (old toyota) has rattled, thinks its an age thing. To check the auxilery belt its easy, open the bonnet and its the one connected to the alternator etc, the belt you can physically see. Check for cracks, tears, if it is not seated on a pulley properly and push it down in the point furthest away from two pulleys, if it moves alot, it probably needs some more tention or a new belt. If your exhaust is completely stock you will have both cats.

I went out for a bit of a drive this morning whilst delivering a few things, only opened her up properly once, when a friendly policeman wanted a bit of a race anyway i parked up after, turned the engine off, delivered the bits then off i went. Pulling away from some lights (slowly), the big red "!" pops up on the dash in the middle or the rpm and also the little orange engine light. Both stayed on for the 2 miles i had to drive home and during this time the car performed as it should, engine temps all fine etc etc. These are the lights that are on when i turn the ignition the first couple clicks before cranking. I started the car again and the warning light had gone off? But just to confirm it was the the orange engine one and "!" that came on whilst driving. The engine oil looks fine, apart form being close to needing changing, the coolant is fine as were the engine temps according to the dash, the brake fluid is full although this is in desperate need of being changed for new fluid, but it is full. Any help would be great please.

Mine rattles like mad on idle but i have a 2nd decat. If i push in different places on the dash it stops. Think im going to try tightening all of the trim nuts and bolts. As for the chirping have you checked the belts?

I had a guy collecting his car from the bodyshop the other day claim his n/a Supra was over 350bhp. I asked what he'd done and he wasn't sure thats how he bought it but apparently it had been in loads of magazines and stuff!

Something like this could make the Jspecs work better?

Nooo another one gone

those recaros

Depends if the front wheel was caught at all and knocked suspension, steering rack etc etc.... Although the first pic looks minor damage second looks a lot worse! But that may just be the angle...

My car didnt start when the immobiliser key fob battery was on the way out! The led on the dash stopped blinking but the car would't start, grabbed the other fob and it was fine. Could be worth a quick check..

Doesn't the assisted steering reduce function at speed in the supra anyway? Not that that's the same as no power steering.

I meant have a mechanic check it first then some high speed runs Id want it tied down and some thorough testing done before i got behind the wheel again.

Looks lovely in both forms. But stock for the win in my opinion!