scott87

Cheers Rich Just gonna live with it. Drives so well and if someone looks at me like my car is broken they wont think that after i hit boost

i have now been informed that this is completely normal. It is the material that the clutch is made out of that is the "issue". It is not the flywheel being eaten. The noise should only be present in 1st and revers. No other gears. If it is then there is something else wrong. I guess i will just live with the noise. Once i get rid of the rattle from my intercooler pipe and the dash rattle i'll only have that annoying squeak to put up with!

I do only have a stock flywheel, but then again so do a fair few people running puk clutches. Although there is more than just me with this weird noise now....

The clutch is great for road use. Its lighter than the oem na one imo. It only judders if i dont put enough revs down or reverse without any revs at all, other than that its completely normal. - - - Updated - - - See mine is really nice uncer normal driving so im not sure that this is the same problem. Im beginning to wonder if my na clutch was already uprated as i really havent noticed to great a deal difference.

Its the stock flywheel. It feels really nice to drive and if i try to drive without the noise thats when the clutch judders. If i just think to hell with it and drive how it feels right the clutch is great but that noise is there. The oem release bearing is needed as the competition one doesnt fit. I have the spec 4 clutch. I assume that it is something i am going to have to live with. Im guessing the way the puc style clutch presses apposed to the oem one it is either wearing it differently or something maybe? Im not sure but this has covered a few miles in my car so i cant call it bedded in at all.

Ok well the noise is still there. If i pull away briskly it isnt there, if i ride off just the clutch it is only there sometimes. If i try and crawl on the biting point that is when its at its worst. It also seems to be a little less obvious when the car isnt cold. Im certain it isn't the brakes or anything else as if i quickly blip the clutch pedal back in the squeak stops.

Thanks for the likes

Not mine no. I'm just the lowly apprentice.

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Your car looks mint. But i swear you could park a massive turd with that backdrop and get good praise!

They are all being blown up with boost. Reckon they are getting rare. May take my turbo off and put on ebay for 10k

All good as long as the ball joints are ok. Ive heard polly is pretty firm but guess it depends what you use the car for.....

It would. But i doubt very much the pad manufacturer accounted for the chemicals in the paint to come into contact with them...... Wouldnt be worth the risk imo!

Tempted. Back to my birth city.....

Im going to polly the arms that are far too expensive to buy new for me and then buy the other ones oem. So rear upper arms are one for sure. Unless i find mint second hand ones.

The center bits that rust look poo. So that is worthy of doing. the disk lip itself etc not sure that this would be worth it. Also adding any substance near the brake system isn't really great imo. I would paint the middles and leave the disk face alone.

Um yer. Dont do this........ Fit them. Let the air/water show you the areas that will corrode, then paint these bits!

Got it from someone on here. But it was direct from competition clutches I believe.

Competition stage 4. Lighter than my na clutch was and so far quite nice. Not had a lot of miles on it but not a world away from stock. Can even pull off in 1st and reverse just on the clutch if you so wish to......

Thanks Lyndon. That link is the type of thing i was looking for, but.... I still dont understand what position the valve is in normally though. The small chart at the bottom shows the valve to be open under heavy throttle and engine speed. But i thought that with the valve closed that makes the runner length shorter?

I was going to mention snow driving. Had a very hairy moment in my new fiesta in snow when the abs took control and that was scary.

I think my grandad teaching me how to drive years ago in a terrible car and teaching me this braking method was one of the best things he passed on.

tps can be a pain. Im pretty sure there is a nice guide on here on how to set it correctly and test the unit. Ill see if i can find it.

It is possible to brake very heavily and still turn without abs. It is purely down to how rapidly the braking is applied and whether it is controlled? I've had a couple of near accidents in cars without abs that have required me to maneuver under heavy braking and havent had an issue. But im sure as you say it is very circumstance related. I personally just find it hard to believe that a 20+ year old system can be that effective. I could be wrong but i really dont like it on toyotas.

Its old and useless and i hate abs on old toyotas, i'd bin it. Removed it from every MR2 i've had and my supra doesn't even have it. Its a nicer drive without it in my opinion anyway.