scott87

I could but that would mean a new wastgate as i cant get a spring for mine. I would then need a new flange welding to the manifold too and i just dont have the time or money at the moment. I am saving for a nice wastegate but this is the best method in the meantime to reign in the boost.

Does anyone have the facilities to make me a restrictor ring for my na-t please? I want this size (shown below), made out of around 1/16th" thick steel with a 1.75" large hole in the middle. The downpipe and 2nd decat are both 3" pipes.

Could someone that has this clutch installed on their non turbo supra please let me know what the running in period was like. What noises the clutch made, how bad the clutch chatter was etc etc. Thanks

I have emailed you thanks Chris

That's what I thought. I'm pretty sure the restrictor ring would be the best option as I still can't find a spring and this would not cost the same as buying another wastegate. Is there a set reference of the size it would need to be or is it trial and error?

I will see if this is possible, however an equal guess of how long to heat it for. Still open to other ideas

The boost my car is hitting is too high. Can anyone advise if trimming the wastegate spring slightly will reduce the load required to open it, thus lowering the boost? I've read a lot of posts on the net about people doing it and it working well. I can't get a new spring as can't find one that is suitable for the wastegate i have anywhere. I also read a thread on here where a member used a restrictor ring on a single turbo na/t. Basically any help or advice on how to lower it would be great. Im aiming for around 6-7.5psi but am currently boosting to nearly 10psi.

Thats the right rad cap for an na

If you were to do the work yourself or with the help of someone from here rather than a garage if you chose to. That budget would be seriously more than enough. I had a much bigger list of things i did to mine when i bought it and my total spend (on new parts) was £1300. But i paid zero labour.

Where abouts are you? Could come and have a look at the car, or another member maybe thats closer and assess it in person.......

Good to hear. If that's the case should turn into a really good car meet as the venue is spot on. Hopefully the cops will be back on board and supportive as things definitely went downhill a while back. Is it going to be a daytime meet on weekends as apposed to evening now then?

Has it changed much from about 4-5 years ago? What support staff are there now, marshals? If not i would definitely not take my Supra there.

[quote name= I hate AEM on a cellular level. Lyndon.[/quote] Ditto!

I paid 1800 in labour for an engine conversion when i supplied all the parts before i did work on my cars myself. I would personally say 5k is mental.

Hahaha that is a hilarious quote! Ill do it for half of that and clean the car every month for a year for you!

Ok well the speaker looks fine. Its a 1000w jbl or 250w rms anyway. The amp is the older 2 way mutant one. Its purple and has black bars over it. The model number is rubbed off. Ive played with the settings and taken it from bridged to normal connection. I have also turned everything off on the headunit. The voltage oin the amp i then turned all the way up with the bass boost/gain db reading to 0 and turned the voltage back till the distortion went. I then moved the gain up a bit and voltage down if it needed. I got this to a level that sounded ok. But the bass isnt booming at all. I then turned the feed from the headunit to the low pass filter to +6 from zero. And then adjusted the gain and input voltage again until there was no distortion. Its sounding fine but its not rattling the doors off as my old jbl did. I have the frequency turned up a little from 40hz, probably more like 60. I have also turned the others to zero as they were high pass ones. There is also a mid something setting that seemed to be best put in the middle. Basically this is the best i can get it, So if anyone is local that can have a look that would be grand. Or at least tell me i've done it all wrong and try again. All of this was done with the cd player set to the highest volume i listen to as any louder an ill blow my other rear speaker. That reminds me, anyone have some rear speakers please?

Cheers dude Will try this and then see if that makes a difference at all. Im also going to turn the input voltage to the lowest and use the bass boost/gain and make sure everything else is to the lowest and on low pass. If its still there then i know there is an issue with the components. - - - Updated - - - Oh so if i have a low power sub this will be sending way to much power!

I know its cheap but the problem seems more than just because the gear is cheap, it seems very signal orientated or amp settings. I think it may be the headunit as it really doesn't seem to allow much control. However im going to remove the sub and inspect it. I wasnt wanting insanely good quality audio, just something to take the low range away from the speakers in the car so they didnt sund so bad. Can i run the sub from one of the channels rather than bridging? I'd lioke to try a few things before binning it.

Yer its in a box. :/

Yer that's makes sense thanks. However I have no idea what the head unit is doing. It is a very primitive unit.

Yer its set to lpf

Can nitros not be used as a constant small trickle to up power? I have no idea about nitros at all so im probably wrong.

Nope i've not used this sub and amp before but did hear it working. The head unit model etc is above. If the speaker has gone pop ill get another 12" but was just wondering if there was something i was overlooking. Like running the sub from one channel rather than bridging or swapping the rca round etc.

I have a small 12" subwoofer connected to a cheap amp. I didn't want anything fancy and wasn't fussed of make as its hidden in the boot. However, i've installed it as i have with every install i've done in the past and im getting a lot of distortion at pretty low volumes. I have the amp bridged as there was a little image of bridged connection on the amp. The equaliser on the low range from the headunit is turned down and the amp is set to the lpf mode. I have disabled the loud mode on my headunit as well. The rca is the opposite side of the car to the power cable and the earth is bolted to the floor of the boot. Should i try the amp wired to a single channel on the amp? I know my old jbl amp and sub had to be like this for some reason even though it was a bridgeable amp. I have a pioneer deh 1430r, the entry range jbl 12" subwoofer and the really cheap bit of kit a 2 channel mutant amp.

na autos can go for a lot less than 2k.