scott87

I'm not expecting there to be no swarf hence using grease to reduce the amount. But I will be thoroughly cleaning and flushing the sump. As I said there are many members who have done it in situ and have had no problems and are running very nice na/t setups. I am also building a second engine as mentioned which will replace this one once I have my setup to the spec I want and have everything correctly fabricated etc

Going to leave a small amount of oil in yes. Drill using foam or white grease to collect swarf. then rinse the sump thoroughly. It has been done by many members successfully so this will be the method i follow.

Ive dropped plenty of engines so that is not what is putting me off. I understand there is a small risk to what i am planning to do but many have had success doing it this way. As i said im going to be very careful and take the risk. My clutch is also not being changed at this point, so i would rather change the clutch when my second engine is built that will eventually replace the one i am going to drill. I am going to thoroughly flush the sump and run about 10litres of fresh oil from top to bottom of the engine and then fit new filter etc etc. Again this is no guarantee, but i have seen some pretty large chunks in the bottom of sumps before (Not on my car, i should add) when changing oil or gearbox oil and the pan filters/main filter do a darn good job of stopping them go elsewhere. Granted metal anywhere is not a good sign, just saying they were stopped from travelling elsewhere, although i know thats not always the case.

I've spoke in depth with people who have done it engine in and this is the route I will be going whilst being very careful. Yes it there is a small risk but one of the beauty's of the engine being so cheap should something go wrong worst case scenario.

yer i know it will be a bit trickier, but both job need to be completed in one day so the following i can bolt everything else on as ill only be able to get a few days off together...

I have a hoist and crane. But there are a couple members that have done it successfully with the engine in. Either using white grease or shaving foam to collect the swarf then flushing the sump thoroughly. Which is what i intend to do. How long are you in Cov for? Im back and available to do car things from the 6th

Im drilling with the engine still in, where the stock oil return location is, using a 90degree drill bit. As a few members have done on here.

Coventry....... Should have put that really

I posted a little while back about needing some help with my na-t conversion. I now have everything that i need so am posting up requesting the help and getting an exact day penciled in for doing the work. Basically i was thinking anyday after the 5th of january and who ever is available to help that would be great. I have spoken to someone who has the necessary tools for the oil pan. Basically i need help drilling the oil pan and fitting the front mount intercooler. I have some brackets for the bottom just need some for the top if anyone has any. Im then going to tie the oil return up and plug it so i can drive the car back home and complete the rest of the conversion at mine. A member on here offered to use there car park at their pub but if anyone has an enclosed area that may be better with the weather at this time of year etc. Thanks to anyone that can help, cant wait to be boosting!!!!

hello

No worries dude. Royal mail will be uber expensive i would imagine. But if a courier isnt suitable we can sort something out im sure. Also you mentioned front disks too didnt you? I definitely would take you up on these as one of mine is dieing a pretty quick death!

Just been trying to get in touch with matt. Organised him sorting me out with a few parts Just can't seem to get hold of him now. Not sure if his inbox is full or not, seen a lot of threads about that.......

Thanks Rich No idea how to do the same. Cannot wait to get this sorted. Literally need one part and some help and im done!!!

Yer my slr is in a mode ready for the weekend and i didnt want to change it He is yer, i cant remember his user name though. We were both on the mr2 forum together before i moved over to the darkside.

Been over to see rich2211 today and now have my full turbo kit. Literally need to buy a flange for the oil pan and have some help drilling it and good to go. Some pics:

Just been over to see rich and pick up my turbo kit. Just wanted to say what a top guy really helped me out with the parts and some tips Just need some help fitting the bits now! Will post pictures in my project thread as soon as i can

Use the pedal on the far right hand side......

Ok thanks. Could i use a 265/40/17 rather than a 255/40/17 on the rear?

Its purely the fact that i can't get a tyre in the size that is on the car at the moment, unless i buy online bt places are funny about fitting them then. It had 45 on before and i swapped to 40's but these are now nearly dead. So just need some fresh rubber that isn't 300 quid a tire.

Bump

Ok I still can't find an answer. The tyre place has said that going up to 45 profile on the rear will be fine. Is this correct. There is a hell of a difference in price! If not does anyone have some stock 17inch rear tyres for sale?

Looking to buy that part if possible Also still looking to find who i bought spark plugs from if i did....

Well spark is one area to check. So check water on plug wells. This can be very intermittent to constant. The check for fuel. Remove the battery for a while or main fuse, google which, that will remove codes and u can go again. But water in the Clark chamber brought me 3 faults entirely unrelated to the water. Cleaned it out and everything went away!

Spot on thanks. Can you pm me the details over again please. Also im not sure if you ever sent a pic of how it connects. You rpabably did and ive forgotten.

Is this directed at me?