anthonyj

Thanks! I think it was in "1" - I just used that magic red button to move it out of the way when I was taking the photos. Got in it the next morning and it wouldn't start - scared the hell out of me until I realised that it wasn't in Park!

My car is on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180015337417 but I'd rather offer it to a member of the club if possible, just because they'll appreciate it more!! I'd also appreciate any advice on pricing etc. Metallic silver, 52k miles, regularly serviced. All the mods are as expected: 18" BBS Split rim alloys with nearly new Goodyear Eagle F1s all round UK front brakes with new discs and TRD pads, braided hoses HKS FMIC Blitz NurSpec exhaust and downpipe (decat) Greddy air filter + HKS BOV Blitz SBC-ID boost controller & power meter + FCD Uprated fuel pump and pulsation dampener bypass Racelogic Traction Control Apline in-dash CD/MP3 player with amp and sub In-dash Clarion TV with remote inputs 12 months tax, MOTed until March next year. Also has a Clifford Thatcham 1 alarm. Car has been in the UK since 1997 and I've had it for the past 3 1/2 and loved every minute of it. I need to sell it because I've bought a new house, although I'm sure I'll end up getting another one at some point!! Car also has a personalised plate which will stay on the car for the right money. So - how much do you reckon its worth? The best offer I've had so far is £8k but I was expecting more than that - ideally £10k with the personal plate? Any advice / offers greatly appreciated!

final one. I also have these in hi-res if anyone wants them...

and another...

Next one...

Here are a couple of photos from the meet (sorry about the red cars being a bit fuzzy!). I also have a bit of video if you want me to email it (max size here is 200K which is just too small!!!). Justin - either you have a very very powerful Supra or you were chasing an old / UK scooby :D . Richard's is a BPU'd running about 1.2 bar, plus, this "try out" was in a straight line in the dry - not exactly playing to the scooby's strengths. I was actually very chuffed that the scooby could hold its own in the Supra's territory - I suspect that it would be the scooby that would do the slaughtering if we factored in some water, some bends or we did it from a standstill! I trust myself to be objective about this as this is precisely why I ended up with both of these cars - they compliment each other nicely. Anyway, slightly off topic - I just wanted to say it was a great evening with a fantastic turnout, so thanks to everyone for coming and I promise I'll bring the Supra next month!!!

Blimey!!! Are you serious about that 2.5k on useless parts?!

Tlicense -- how do you find the differences? Having converted your car from an auto to a manual, I guess that you might have some unique insight into the differences between the two (although I guess that having shelled out the cash, you do prefer the manual?!)...

Get one mate - I can really feel the difference between mine with it switched off (full decat with CW restrictor) and it on - especially between 3.5-4.5k where the 2nd turbo is coming online. The general problem I see with controlling boost on the supra is that it varies a lot on a day to day basis depending on temperature. A boost controller allows you to tweak your settings from the comfort of your cockpit so that you can always achieve your target boost. With a restrictor ring alone, you'll either overboost when it is cold or not produce your target when it is warmer. You can use a bleed valve to compensate for this, but you have to open the bonnet to do that and there is a real danger of overboosting if you push it to the limit. In contrast, my Blitz is fantastic at reeling the boost in at my preset warning level so I can always aim high and know that it won't let things get out of hand. Having said all of the above, I'd still make sure you sort all of the other "safety" bits out first - a decent fuel pump and intercooler will sort your car out a treat and allow you to safely make the most of your boost regardless of how you choose to limit it!!! Note that you need the Power Meter to automatically switch between the 4 maps on the SBCID but that gives you excellent control, allowing you to tweak for maximum response at low speeds and maximum gain at higher speeds! That's my 2 cents anyway :)!

I have BBS wheels on mine - they're 38 offset I think. The car has very good grip, but I wouldn't say the handling is that spectacular (I don't have Bilsteins though). However, it is *much* better since I had the geormetry done and fitted a set of Eagle F1s to the rear. It is definitely over-tyred at the front - turn in is instant and there is no understeer but there is quite a bit of tramlining. However, I agree with Phil that it is very hard to push these cars to the limit anyway, and it is certainly still "fun" as it is. The most important thing for me was that UK brakes fit under them !!!!

Get an an aerotop and live with the auto!!! The autoboxes are good and you will absolutely love it in the summer!! It's not like the Supra is that good a winter car anyway !! PS I am, of course, completely biased!!

Or blow the turbos and get bigger one(s)!!!!

Dude -- I think you'll agree that it is widely acknowledged by the real experts that silver j-spec aerotops are the fastest model of Supra to start with!!!! :) :)

I'm confused... Whilst I completely accept your comments and have no doubt that theoretically they are correct (even if I don't really understand the terminology ), this isn't bourne out in practice . Why then is my car quicker at 1.3 bar than at 1.2? Several other people with J-Specs have commented on the same thing - their cars are producing more boost and running quicker - surely we can't all be imagining it? It is definitely more obvious when it is cold. My initial assumption was that even though the turbos are heating the air a lot more, they are actually providing more pressure too - probably due to the cold dense air they are currently compressing (probably helped by FMIC?). On the other hand, are we basically seeing an opposite effect - i.e. because the air is colder, the turbo which normally produces 1.2 bar flat out, is now producing 1.3 (i.e. an 8% increase in air density). I'm not simply "chasing boost numbers" - I have no wish to run more boost simply for the sake of it, but if the performance is there then I'd like it :) - hence my next biggest concern over fuelling. Apologies also if the above theorising is a complete load of rubbish. I'm afraid I've never really been able to get my head around the complexities of turbo charging. I'm just trying to understand not irritate :)!!!

As predicted by moi!! Personally, I blame it all on James :flame Dev::flame Dev::flame Dev::flame Dev:!!! Attached photo as evidence!!!! PS Sorry we were late - I hope that doesn't put you off coming again!!!

Mmmm, great food! :p

Dickie, James & I always arrive later than anyone plans for anyway !

Wouldn't that be the theoretical limit if the injectors ran at 100% duty? I'm not sure what fuelling the standard ECU provides at what it considers to be "full boost".

Hmm, I guess at the moment, the cold air is reducing this effect somewhat. The other day, I hit 1.3 bar and really felt the difference between that and 1.2. It was the surprising extra performance that made me check the boost in the first place.

Sage advice as ever ;-)!!! My thinking was based on concerns that running the stock turbos hard would cause them to lean out the existing fuelling from the standard injectors at the top end - especially in this cold weather. I guess the sane reply to that would be "don't run the stock turbos so hard then" ! How boring that would be !!!!!!!

Chris, thanks for the comments - it does make sense to me. Presumably that means that the ECU has to be changed at the same time as the injectors then? I know that the piggyback approach is less than ideal, but my plan was always to use it as a stepping stone that gives me enough flexibility for the immediate future. My main concern would be: is it safe to the engine? If the answer is "yes, but you won't get the same power / flexibility out of your mods" then I can accept the compromise - you do pretty much always get what you pay for after all!! In the future, if/when my stock turbos die, I at least have the capability of moving to some hybrids or a small single without having to shell out lots of cash on other bits & pieces first. The consensus does seem to be that the EManage is the better solution - in theory at least. What I need now is some practical evidence!!! Can anyone recommend a tuner who works with the EManage then? Or better yet - anyone got a car with an EManage in and working (especially an auto)?! At the moment, everyone says the EManage is better, but there seem to be more people out there saying I have an SAFC and it works well!!! Thanks, Anthony.

BINGO!! Thanks mate - that has to be it. At least I know what it is now!! I bet I'm missing those springs on the scooby too (or they're incorrectly positioned). This BBS is fantastic - my question was posted at 2am and answered completely before 3am :)!!

Actually, I think PARK works even better than the rev limiter !!!!!! No it definitely isn't warped discs - they're brand new and there's no vibration or wobble when stopping from many leptons - the UK brakes are by far the best OE brakes I've ever had. I get this noise even if I'm pootling in traffic - the pad doesn't even have to be doing any work. The moment I just dab the pedal, there is a small click - sometimes from the front, sometimes from the back, sometimes from everywhere. It is probably slightly louder if I mash the pedal, but the pressure doesn't seem to affect the noise. To be honest, I don't notice it when I'm 'making progress', but this could be because the ambient noise is much higher. Also, it doesn't always do it. What the hell are spring clips - and how do they flap?!

I'm about to put UK injectors onto my J-Spec (already have FMIC, Walbro pump, SBCID, full de-cat etc) as a starting point for some further modifications . Has anyone done this on a car with the standard J-Spec ECU? If so, does it run OK or is it pretty nasty? Some people seem to say it is a disaster whereas others say the ECU adapts pretty well and everything settles down (until you unplug the battery;)). My next question is, if I were to "augment" the ECU then what should I replace it with? It looks like the favourites are the EManage and the SAFC. I was very tempted by the EManage, but several people I've talked to say it is a complete pig to map. So I'd value anyone's thoughts and opinions on the best way to proceed - especially from people that have them installed or know people that map them!!! Obviously, the long-term goal is to upgrade the turbos at some point - probably looking for the smallest single I could get so I'm not looking for big power but the best driveability. (I guess there is a whole other thread on whether going single completely destroys the driveability of the automatic but I'm still waiting for someone to offer to take me out for a spin in a single turbo'd auto so I can make my own mind up;)). If anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them!! Ta, Anthony.

I use Nitrous Formula Race Spec booster in my scooby (not sure if it is the same stuff?) - my tuner (Bob Rawle - very well respected in the Impreza community) says it is very good stuff and does provide measurable gains as well as a bit of protection. He also says a lot of the other stuff is rubbish ! This stuff actually states that it can "..raise the octane level by 60 points or 6 RON". On the basis that my car runs loads of advance, and doesn't knock and hasn't blown up, I'd recommend it although it is a hell of a lot more expensive per gallon than Toluene!!! Web site is at http://www.nitrous.com.au/ and there are quite a few places where you can get it here.