AxelB.

Interested in the full loom version mate Thanks

Ah, I already did the crank pulley check. No probs from there, the two parts didn't move.. Then I guess I'm gonna have the valve clearances checked. Is it safe to keep driving the car or is it better to let it in the garage until it's done ?.. Many thanks guys !

Hi all ! A bunch of noises that start to worry me a bit.. I'm going to explain the best I can when they occur and put a link with an iPhone vid. First one - Engine is cold, RPMs at 1000 to 3000 Kind of squeeky noise that appears at 45 sec - we can hear it loud at 1 min on this vid : http://youtu.be/NTijdrD3K2s Second one - Engine is cold or warm, it's always present and comes from the upper side of the engine. Was thinking about valve clearance ?.. Is this noise normal ?.. Or do I need to have a check ? http://youtu.be/EGVoOsBDJdM Third one - Kind of rattling that appeared after I pushed the engine at 3000 RPMs. Don't really know where it comes from, I took the video from behing as it avoided to have the engine sound on the vid. You'll maybe have to push your volume up to hear that one.. http://youtu.be/dj8CroMJPiI That's it.. The ones that really worry me are the 2 first.. Maybe the 2nd is kinda normal, but I'd like you to confirm me that.. And for sure the 1st will involve investigation.. Any idea ?.. Thanks a lot for your help !..

Bonne chance mec ! Vivement les photos =D

Nice little Colt, mate ! Welcome, by the way.

Perfect, thanks a lot mate.

2 additional small questions I need to ask : I'd like to wait a bit before going full BPU, but I'd like to monitor my boost. I know Greddy Profec BSpec 2 can act as a boost gauge, and I don't want some additional gauges in my cabin (moreover I hate buying twice).. is that OK if I buy the BC, install it as it should be once my car will be BPU, but set everything as it would be without the BC (so, stock behaviour), just to get it reading the boost pressure ? I guess I'll be able to set it to do so (didn't give a deep look into all the settings yet) but I prefer to be sure before I buy. Also, uh, stupid question. What happens if everything is installed, and I remove only the main unit ?.. I guess I'll have at least to cap the hose that reads from the intake and the one that goes to the solenoid.. what happens if I don't do it (boost leak ? nuclear explosion) ? =D Thanks in advance for your answers !

Damn ! I went to ask a question regarding the fuel pressure regulator & vacuum line, but this last post totally answered everything ! Thanks a lot to all of you !

I'd like to install the Greddy Profec B Spec 2. But apparently, the Blitz tuto was similar and could help you installing that one too.. Regarding the controller location in the cabin, you can find people who put it just behind the steering wheel (on the top of the wheel support, in front of the tacho), or somewhere underneath the wheel (stuck near your legs or something).. My plan would be to put it in a 1DIN slot that I would be able to "close" in case of need, underneath my 1DIN autoradio =D Or somewhere in a glovebox, to keep a maximum stock look in cabin.

I'd like to install the Greddy Profec B Spec 2. But apparently, the Blitz tuto was similar and could help you installing that one too.. Regarding the controller location in the cabin, you can find people who put it just behind the steering wheel (on the top of the wheel support, in front of the tacho), or somewhere underneath the wheel (stuck near your legs or something).. My plan would be to put it in a 1DIN slot that I would be able to "close" in case of need, underneath my 1DIN autoradio =D Or somewhere in a glovebox, to keep a maximum stock look in cabin.

Hi all, Unfortunately, I'm coming with a frequently asked question. How to install a Boost Controller, which hoses need to go where, and which wires do I need to join where ? All my searches lead to the same point, a MKIV.com tutorial for a Blitz Boost Controller. As MKIV.com seems to have some trouble for days now, it might be good to reupload/rewrite it here... This will help me a lot, and stand as a backup for that precious tuto no more available.. If someone have it or can make one, it would be very nice ! Many thanks in advance ! EDIT : Here it is, thanks a lot to Samurai 20V ! This was an email I sent to Josh on how to install the EVC S... I hope it helps.. Basically start with the solenoid, find a good place to mount it..Take into account the length of the wire that goes into the cabin and try to keep the vacuum hoses to the solenoid short, it needs to be close to the first turbo. We basically are going to bypass the first turbo VSV and let the boost controller control the actuator…Here is where I put mine.. (Just above the intercooler pipe) So, you need to disconnect all the hoses on the first VSV and actuator for the first turbo, like the pic. (It is located just in front of the first turbo, behind the air intake. Maybe easier to remove the intake for space to work). You need to get the red silicone caps to block these off, or you could use a piece of hose, clamp and a bolt.Note the remaining hose from the actuator to the turbo also needs to be removed, these ports we will use in the next step.Also note the vacuum pipe on the top which connects to the left most port on the VSV, block this off as well.. (2nd Pic). Leave the w/h connector on the VSV, no need to remove it. Then you can hook up the solenoid to the turbo and actuator. We will use the open ports from the turbo and actuator mentioned above. Refer to the pic, “13” goes to the inlet on the solenoid. (Not easy to get too, you can see close to the engine side). Note there is a 6mm filter (weird double cone thing) that goes on this line. Next, Outlet from the solenoid goes to “1” on the actuator. “2” is blocked off already from the previous step. Now you done on the turbo side..Move to the boost sensor, this is basically a boost reference for the EVC. It needs to come from the inlet manifold, after the throttle. So refer to the pic below, just unplug the 4mm pipe from the thing labeled “Manifold pressure reference outlet (with check valve)”, cut a short piece to connect to the outlet, fit your T piece, and then run your 4mm pipe to the boost sensor. In fact the pic shows exactly how you need to T-piece it. The open end in the pic goes to the boost sensor. The filter (weird double cone thing) fits on the line going to the boost sensor, it filters any oil etc, protecting your sensor.You have to decide to were to mount the boost sensor based on the length of the wire to the control unit. So plan everything out before cutting and mounting everything. Its not so hard, just take your time and go through things step by step..Once everything is in, remember to adjust the offset, then enjoy the full BPU!!

All right ! Thanks for your answers.

Right. Thanks a lot to all of you for these precious pieces of information. Then, when the time will come (and the money, ahah !), I'll try to go single and having it as smooth as possible. Homer, you're telling me about getting to 400 bhp (-> typically, BPU classic upgrades I guess), then getting to 450 bhp.. Is there something I can add to BPU before going single that would help raise power ? I mean, there's some additionnal modifications that would more help the car staying reliable than being more powerful (I'm thinking about all the cooling addings like FMIC, etc, am I right ?), but I've always thought the next mandatory step to get more power after raising the boost & changing the exhaust line was changing the turbos..

Yeah, regarding the autobox, sure it's OK for BPU level. After, I'll consider either swapping it for a manual box, or for the boostlogic.. I would prefer the second option. Then I'll just have to find it. Concerning the turbos, I didn't know changing the turbos means changing manifold/pipework. I'm a bit sceptic about upgrading stock turbos... I'll try to get some info on this, but for sure I'll never push them at a level that would reduce their reliability. @ listy - and even for a small single setup, I'll need the 3" exhaust ? Then the Whifbitz might not be sufficient at that moment, as it's 2.5", I guess.. The only thing I fear on a single setup is the moment before the turbo throws the power - I'm used to the sequential twin setup, that reacts fairly quickly (and I even didn't tested BPU, as I've been told, it changes the car from A to Z !).. That's the reason I wanted to go for a twin turbo setup, with new turbos... didn't know it was so expensive to make, anyway =/

Thanks for your quick answer mate ! Yes, I know the stock twins won't be sufficient. I'm planning to reach this power once I'll have my turbos changed ! To be honest, I don't care how much power I'll get once I'll be BPU, as this will only be an intermediate level of upgrade. But I'd like to know if there are some aftermarket twinturbos to increase my car's power, just like people fit aftermarket single turbos.. =D Also thanks for the confirmation regarding the parts I mentionned ;-)

Hi all, Now that I have fixed most of my small probs on my stock Supra, I'm thinking about going BPU. When my turbos give up (and only at that moment), I'll replace them with a bigger setup, but I won't go for a single turbo setup. I want to stay with Twins. To start with the right info, here are my car's specs : Supra RZ, JDM, Auto gearbox At the moment the car is completely stock (it even still has the speed limiter at 180 km/h ! ). At the very end, my goal would be to reach between 550 - 600 hp. First question - What are the most adapted twin turbos for the power I'm planning to get, considering I'll probably be BPU (+ FMIC) at this moment ? Then, as I'm going to start (logically !) with the basic parts upgrade, is there something I need to care about to make sure not buying upgrades that will have to be replaced when I change the turbos ? I mean, I'd like to avoid, for example, getting an exhaust system that would be OK for BPU but that would need to be changed if the twins are replaced because too restrictive, or something... I want to buy immediately parts that will suit & help me to reach the power I want to get, and build my BPU setup considering the next and last upgrades. To give a concrete example, I'm looking closely at the Garage Whifbitz packs. I'm hearing a lot of good advices on them, for a relatively cheap price. Especially that one, that includes everything I want to fit in my car for the moment, with my stock twins : http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/index.php/garage-whifbitz-850.html (of course i'll have to add a cat-back as it's not included in the pack) Will these parts be OK if I'm replacing my twins in the future ? Any feedback on this pack ?.. Another question then - as my car is an automatic, do I need to change absolutely my transmission BEFORE I get the new turbos, or can't I simply use the boost controller in order to restrict the power to a safe limit for the gearbox ? (guess the answer is the second option, but I prefer to get a confirmation !) Uh, you've guessed it, I'm totally new in the world of upgrades (I previously thought I would keep my Supra stock... but finally, no ! ), so maybe these points have been covered.. However I'm still asking, considering you have there my setup and the power I want to reach. Many thanks in advance and have a nice day !

Okay ! I knew the expansion tank was working with the rad cap in order to keep the rad full of coolant depending on the pressure, but I didn't know it would also act as a bleeding system. Thanks !

Right, thanks a lot for your answer. But, how can the rad be self-bleeding ? How does it work ?

Hi dudes, I changed my rad today, and I had a little prob.. The small electric cooling fan plug took some coolant on it as I was bleeding the system, now the fan doesn't spin anymore (the one located near the main cooling fan, behind the rad). I had a small ride to bring the car to my garage, it didn't overheat, everything seemed to be OK.. Can someone tell me what is the purpose of this small electric fan ? Is it big deal if it doesn't work ?.. Do I need to fix this issue urgently ? Thanks in advance !

Hi all, I'm gonna change my rad soon and I would need to know what sizes and what kind of gasket are needed to replace : - The O-Ring for ECT Switch for Electric cooling fan - The Drain Plug O-Ring (see the picture) http://s9.postimg.org/lm558j5r3/Capture.png I would also need to know the sizes of theese O-Rings, for A/T oil cooler system. http://s23.postimg.org/wmwa65q9n/Capture.png If anyone has a picture or a ref so I can buy them in advance... It would be great ! Thanks a lot in advance !

I've bought a SQUALE remote central locking system, normally as you already have central locking via the key, you would only need the remotes + receiver (that you can maybe install using your taped up cables). Can you tell me the color of the cables ? I'll install mine during the next weeks, I'll make pictures and post a tutorial anyway.

I see on the website peter richards mentionned there are 2 rads for auto tt.. they are different only on mounting points, so I guess one is facelift and one is pre-facelift.

Ehm, on the screenshot I posted you can see the ToyoDIY part, they ask 480 $ ^^ That's why I'm taking your solution into consideration Did you make sure it has the oil cooler system that goes on Auto Supras ? That's strange the auto radiators are cheaper than manual ones, they are supposed to have that built-in oil cooling system oO

@ Dnk - right. Thanks for your advice, I'll do it ! @ peter richards - Thanks dude ! That's very nice from your part. Yes, my Supra is TT auto, from 93. How are these rads compared to the stock ones ? The price is very low, that's very attractive, but is it a good quality part ?..

Yeah, I've taken that ref from the Auto section. I'll specify it once again at the Toyota dealer when I go to buy it ! Nothing else I'll need to buy for mounting ?