np89

When will people realise you can't build an engine on a buget and skimp out. And yes you have had detonation, piston edges breaking off and pitting is a classic sign of detonation. If you dont have the money right now save up and do it once and do it right. DO NOT REBUILD WITH USED PISTONS that have signs of damage on them as I suspect you are going to try and do and even if they are a new set you will still need the bores rehoned and sized for THAT SPECIFIC piston. I suggest you consult an expert or just give them the lot and tell them to make it right because, no harm to you, it doesn't sound like you have a clue about building engines.

Give colin ball at ssi a shout. Hes up on seven mile straight 07789758690

You raised the boost and dont have a boost gauge? Theyre like a tenner out of halfords. Its probably a speed sensor. Do the paperclip diagnosis but you really shud have a gauge tbh....

Have you got a boost gauge?

The ECP diagram for vacuum system shows all the hose sizes you need. Have a look on toyodiy

Sounds like a loose / bad connection at the second accessory on the key. Maybe a relay due to the click?

Just to update for anyone who follows with a similar issue. As i thought i had solved the issue in the last post, it only solved it temporarily. More testing revealed that infact the BRAND NEW Toyota 82degree thermostat was not opening due to the altered waterflow from a non watercooled turbo and much larger aftermarket rad. The solution was a thermostat with a lower opening temp. Currently using a TRD 72degree stat though i am considering using a mishimoto 62degree one.

I stand corrected, thank you! - - - Updated - - - is that in the cooling section though?

Nah the manual doesn't really tell you anything about that

Well the issue was that the rad wasnt flowing coolant past about the first inch or two and was staying cold and the water temps were getting ridiculous both idling and on boost. The car is a UK Spec single turbo that was previously GT35R water and oil cooled. I repalced the gt35r with a BL S366HF and BC264 cams and thats when the temperature issues started. Seeing up to 125degrees on boost. Thought the cams weren't dialled in correctly so did that, and there was significant adjustment there. However the temps were still reaching 108 degrees at only 1.3 bar. Bled the life out of the system again and again. New water pump new stat. The works. Finally last night i managed to solve the problem and restore the coolant flow to the system. Reconnected the turbo water feed on the pump housing to the water feed at the back of the block and hey presto the radiator got flow back in it and heated up the whole way across, maintained a constant 90 degree temperature. The two water returns on the water neck had been welded up by the previous owner for some reason and they had been using the two feeds to supply water to the previous single turbo that was on there. However i know these are both feeds and not a feed and a return so although it has, it should not have fixed the problem and im a bit stumped Allbeit happy its sorted.

Does anyone know or even better, have a diagram of the coolant flow path of the 2JZGTE to show all the pipes, feeds, direction of flow etc of the engine? Recently had an issue with coolant flow that I have now sorted, but the solution that sorted it doesn't make sense or agree as such with my knowledge of the direction of flow! Thanks Niall

Agreed the 450 dual turbine pump is the job!

Just put them on a bench and put 12v to the back of the bulb/plug

Hopefully you get sorted mate

They shud use their eyes lol it will definitely be on there. Anyway. Sounds like you've been had mate. Hopefully the seller made an innocent mistake and will rectify accordingly. Maybe whiffen will do you an xmas good turn on a uk set?

Glad it was an easy fix for you mate

The alternator putting out the correct voltage has nothing to do with the reg rec. If it isnt working it wont charge the battery which in turn gives your issue. Alternator can be working fine but have a dodgy reg rec

Scratch that. Checked the EPC diagram. Its contained within the rear of the alternator housing

Regulator rectifier is usually clipped to the side of the alternator with a plug going into it.

Regulator rectifier is away - - - Updated - - - car doesnt have enough power to run itself and is only running key systems such as the ecu

In fairness, he may not have realised. TBH I didnt know until I looked that up for you that they were different in that respect cos everyone on here refers to glass headlights as "UK Spec". Part number stamped on it is your best bet to be sure. Seller might just have to eat his hat as it were.

Every toyota/lexus part has a part number stamped on it somewhere, but id be willing to bet you have the german version if you got them off a german member. The part numbers are there for reference

So LHD is a completely different light and the german spec is completely different again altogether (prob due to tighter restrictions on car specifications e.g the spoiler had to be lower on the german export Euro model). So as you can see, no amount of adjusting will make a LHD lamp a RHD lamp and certainly will not make a German Spec lamp, be either Std LHD and definitely not UK Spec RHD

So Part Numbers are as Follows: Supra JZA80 Euro Spec RHD: LH Lamp - 81170-1B210 RH Lamp - 81130-1B210 LHD: LH Lamp - 81170-1B190 LH Lamp (FR German Spec) - 81170-1B220 RH Lamp - 81130-1B190 RH Lamp (FR German Spec) - 81130-1B220

Whats the part number stamped on them?