np89

Was that on the assembly that holds the release bearing hub to the clutch face?

As requested. Gauge isnt that accurate but reads a bar at the ecuhttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/592aca5d12030/Snapchat-2113604146.mp4

Im making 745 on a Precision 6466 gen2 vband. You'd have to change your manifold but weighing up spool with top end power its a pretty good option. The spool on mine is thay good that my car makes a bar revving in neutral

I honestly do think you have the same issue as me. Take it apart and reassemble it on a bench and if the plates dont slide into the basket smoothly thats the issue. Cant hurt to try i guess! Even better news about not needing the tool

Absolutely but that doesnt make his price a product of supply and demand hence the underlying statement of self inflation because he is trying to get as much as he can for a car thats realistically 4k's worth by your own admission.

Yes you have just made my point. I'd dare say your UK TT Auto is neither rough nor badly modded/maintained. Would I be right? Absolutely the cars in good condition and good history will absolutely sell but at the other end of the spectrum the sellers flogging the ebay or fb specials are complete dreamers.

Yes but the cars arent selling for that hence the price point is wrong. When was the last time you saw a roughish NA auto sell for 6.5k or an average tt auto sell for 15k?. Like all things there are exceptions for the really clean stuff as Ive stated before but by and large the vast majority of cars arent selling for anywhere near that money. And i wouldnt include my own car in that analysis because mine is a UK 6 Speed single at nearly 800bhp so its not going to fall within the median range of cars people are referring to. In exactly the same way I wouldnt include your own car in that analysis as I know yours is a really clean example, well specd and well cared for. Im not carpet bombing here, it is a specific analysis.

Yes but importers are traders. Jurgens prices actually seem reasonable now and thats saying something lol trade cars come with other benefits like they've been checked out, they must legally come with warranty and you have someone to turn to so the premium they charge actually means something. Why should private sellers think that they can trade at the same money with none of the benefits?

I dont plan on selling mine either but it has to be admitted the price of cars and parts are just ridiculous at the moment. There are some true shitheaps for sale for a fortune. Only the really special stuff is worth the money as a "future classic" but most of the ones for sale are either rotten, badly maintained or completely riced out or all of the above. Most of the truely worth it cars that i know of on the forum or elsewhere arent for sale. In my opinion 90% of the stuff for sale at the moment is people trying to cash in on a craze and hoping their heaps will sell for a fortune.

And therein lies the point that I keep reiterating and then people deny and then threads like these appear. Supra market entirely self inflated......

Oh ok my mistake! Didnt realise you needed a specific tool to do those clutches my triple plate was all marked up when we did mine so it just went on the nose of the input shaft and bolted it back up to the basket/flywheel.

Thanks Greg! Took a bit to get it all working the way I wanted but seems to have turned out well!

To be honest its a waste of time trying to diagnose the issue without taking it apart and having a look. I don't necessarily think it has to go back to SRD. A local garage or even yourself if you are handy should be able to do it in a morning.

This happened to me with my RPS Triple Carbon. Turned out one of the metal plates had developed a wee burr on it causing it to stick in the basket. Clutch was disassembled and the burr filed down until it slid in and out of the basket smoothly and its been 100% since!

Well only because its true. Copper plugs melt and stop sparking. An iridium plug has an alloy electrode and keeps on going for far longer

I still use copper core in mine at 745bhp. Nothing wrong with running them thereafter just a shorter service life

Really if you are getting the car mapped it should be mapped with copper core plugs. If it dets the plug just melts and it goes off a cylinder. If you are using an iridium plug it will just keep on sparking and heating until you hole a piston

You can send it to me if you like. I live in Lisburn, beside Sprucefield.

Give Ali burrows or Powermax a shout. They should have a suitable oil in stock. The Toyota stuff isn't the most advanced compared with what can be got now. You may find an aftermarket alternative will be just as good if not better

I might have one. Not sure if it got tossed or not. Can have a look if you like?

Only difference in a GE and GTE block is oil squirters. GTE rings will be fine.

I don't think I'm going to chase any more power at the moment to be honest, the car drives great so I think I'll keep it as it is rather than do any more at this stage! I do appreciate your point though, I have done well to make it work with 3" lol

Thanks bud! Yea the 6boost and vband turbo housing seemed to have helped it immensely. Just the 97ron fuel here holds us back! But really pleased with the result! It drives absolutely savagely!

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58fe77e653975/VID-20170424-WA0011.mp4

Engine Type - Single Turbo Engine Spec - Fully Forged 2JZ GTE, CP Carillo 86.5mm pistons, Eagle Conrods, BC 264 Cams, Dual BC Springs, ID1000 Injectors, -8AN Fuel Lines, Walbro 485 lift pump, 2l swirl pot, twin 044s, SATS Motorsport Cam Gears, Turbosmart 60mm Ext. Wastegate, Honda Civic EP Coilpacks Rev Limit - 8500rpm Turbo - Precision 6466 .82 Vband, 6boost manifold Vband Fuel Used - 97RON Super Exhaust - 3" Turbo Back free flow system, Hks Superdrager Transmission - UK Spec V160, UK Spec Auto diff ECU - Link G4+ "Supralink" Mapped By - Richard Bradley @ Bradley Motorworks Dyno Used - unknown Power figure - 745.1 bhp Torque figure - 586.2ft lbs Boost Pressure - 2.2Bar max