JamesArup

Great, that's just around the corner! Looking forward to hearing the results! Thanks very much for the help! Cheers

I am indeed in Surrey, in the Windlesham/Chobham area! Oh wow, an original diagnostic tool, that sounds cool. I'm not going to be able to get back to the UK any time soon (urgh, covid), but my dad is clearly having great fun messing about with my car. It will be very interesting to see how the tool works and what it tells you about your car! Let me know! Cheers!

Ahh, the problem with the fault codes seems to be that my main engine warning light doesn't work, even though it's all been re-soldered, so I can't see what it's outputting with the paperclip trick. I am out of the UK at the moment, so this is all being looked at by my Dad, who said: "Can't figure out the abs or random main warning light, keep coming back to various ecu's, Can't code read fault from flashes as unable to get engine warning light to work, again seems to go back to an ecu. So we have no engine warning light, abs light permanently on, and main warning light coming on randomly." Does anyone with a Syvecs know if I can check errors via the Syvecs software? Is it possible that the ECU has a record of what these errors could be? Cheers

Thanks for the responses guys! Still searching at the moment! Definitely not low brake fluid. I've had that problem before over the years, so it was the first thing I checked. I should be able to check if the Syvecs has stored any errors, but it's certainly not an area of expertise for me. The paperclip method doesn't seem to be doing anything at the moment, but will keep trying! Cheers

Hey folks, Been reading around on the subject, but still can't identify what my problem is. The main warning light in the middle of the rev counter has suddenly starting coming on after a few minutes of driving (i.e. about long enough to get warmed up). I know it's not the brake fluid, as I had that issue before and filled it all up to the brim. Been looking at the soldering around the other warning lights, as there is nothing else coming on with the warning light. One question I had was that my car only has 4 lights, but it looks like there is space for 5. My guess is that this is a standard PCB and that 5th slot is used for cars with airbags? But I wanted to check that I'm not missing a light somewhere. You can see the spare slot in the attached photo, to the left of the other 4 diodes. For some reason I can't seem to get the fault codes to work, but I'll keep trying that one. The car is fitted with a Syvecs S7i, and the Voltmeter and Oil Pressure gauge on the toucan display screen don't register at all. But my DEFI pressure gauge does show that everything is fine. I don't remember if the digital ones ever worked though, only just noticed now! Can the warning light come on for something like brake pad wear? Slightly worried that it could be an oil or water temp thing, due to when the light comes on. But the water and oil temp readings seem fine! Any help or advice would be great! Cheers

Thanks Mike, I'll give Lee a shout then. The car wouldn't start again this morning, but I took the relay out and warmed it up inside. After warming it up, I ran 12v across it, and it worked. Stuck it back in the car, and it started first time. I'm in the process of cooling it down again in the freezer so I can run 12v across it again to see if it still works! If it doesn't then we know what the problem is... the relay doesn't like being cold Thanks again, and Happy Christmas! Cheers, James

Thanks Mike, I followed your steps above, and the engine started with no issues, so I guess that narrows it down! I don't know anyone local to me with a Supra, and the problem is that I'm only in the country for a few days!! I've been looking online for somewhere to source a new relay, but I just seem to dig up second hand ones on Ebay. And I'm not 100% sure they are the correct one! The relay itself looks pretty clean. Had a look inside, and looks clean there too, but there's quite a lot of circuitry, so clean doesn't necessarily mean working! I'll keep digging around! Thanks again, Cheers, James

Ooh! Interesting! The bridging trick works, and the starter motor kicks in every time. So, as you said, I guess if the issue lies in that system, then it's either the relay or the barrel signal I guess. Where does one find a new starter relay to try?

Hey Mike, Thanks very much for that. I'll give it a look and see what I can find. There's definitely something going on! What I don't understand is, if it's a problem with the starter motor, relay or immobiliser, why does it only happen when the car is cold? Is there something that could cause it to only happen from cold, but then be fine for the rest of the day? Thanks again, Cheers, James

Hey Mike, Thanks very much for the detailed reply! Really appreciate it. I will go through and check all of these things. However, unfortunately the engine doesn't crank at all. When I turn the key, I hear the fuel pumps kick in, all the dash lights come on, but there is nothing else! It's as if the immobiliser is on, but it's not. Once it finally starts, it will then start first time for the rest of the day. That's what makes me think it's an ECU issue rather than an alarm/immobiliser issue (otherwise the same thing would happen every time I try to start it). If I leave it overnight, especially with current temps, I'll have the same 10+ minute battle the next day to get it to crank/start. Thanks again, Cheers, James

Hey folks, Recently had a Syvecs S7i + a whole bunch of other work done! The car runs great, makes good power etc etc. However, there seems to be a cold-start issue. At first I thought it was my alarm/immobiliser, as the car literally doesn't turn over at all. Fuel pumps all start, lights all come on, but nothing else. After anything from 1 to 15 minutes of pressing alarm buttons and turning the key, the car will finally start. Once started, the car will usually start first time, every time, for the rest of the day. That part makes me think it's not alarm/immobiliser related. I've been sent a couple of updated maps to try, and yesterday it started first time with one of them, so I thought the problem was solved. However, today (where it is especially cold), the car won't start again. I tried for about 10 mins, and then gave up... my hands were getting cold! Rather than wasting the tuner's time, I would like to be able to troubleshoot this myself. I have all of the Syvecs software, and I consider myself to be very computer-literate (it's my job), but I really have NO IDEA what I am looking at when it comes to all of the settings in the Syvecs. Can anyone suggest what I should be looking at in the Syvecs map, and what I should be adjusting? As I said, the car literally doesn't turn over at all when it's cold...it doesn't even try! I can probably get logs etc if needed, Thanks for any help, Cheers, James

Hi all, Looking desperately for some 65mm threaded centre caps! I have an old set of Volks Evolution IV wheels that I've just had refurbished and resprayed. However, the centre caps (about 18 years old) have seen better days, and there is even one that doesn't match the others. It seems like ALL replacement centre caps these days are the "clip-on" type. But I really need threaded screw-one ones (as it holds the wheel-nut cover in place - see pics). I've phoned Volks/Rays directly, and they say they don't make them anymore. I guess because everyone uses these clip-on ones these days. Anyone know where I might find some. They don't have to be branded or anything, I'll probably respray them either way! Pics attached to show what I mean! Thanks very much!!

Yeah, quite happy with the power! Plenty for "sensible" use! I'll definitely try V-Power next!

Who knows! . Would have been nice to settle on a nice, round, 650! I'll get some Shell 99RON in there next time, and see if we can tweak it on the road with that

Hi all, Had a bunch of stuff done over at Whifbitz a month or so ago. Thought I'd post the dyno up. Getting 527bhp at the wheels, so appx. 620bhp at the fly. Being held back by octane still it seems, but was running it on Tesco 99RON. Possibly a dodgy batch! Here are the specs and the dyno results, and a video (the video was before it was pushed up to 620bhp) https://youtu.be/kKIo012TNdI

Great, thanks! I "think" that's the one that I highlighted in my photo. It's the only grey one in there as far as I can tell. I'm out of the country now, but will give it a check once I'm back again ... if I'm allowed in!

Is this the fella here? .... [ATTACH]525687[/ATTACH]

Thanks Rider, very useful. Didn't have much of a chance yesterday, but took the car for a drive today, and now it's only showing Error Codes 34 and 36, the common denominator between those 2 codes is the Rear Left sensor, so I'm going to dig around now to see what I can find. That sensor should be plugged up to the Syvecs though, so I would have thought that would have thrown up an error if it wasn't working, but I'll check anyway. I think I know the panel you mean. Not the main big panel that actually houses the speakers, but the smaller one that sort of attaches to that and wraps around into the boot? I think I broke most of the clips on that many years ago when I was upgrading speaker wires, so that should be easy enough to get into! :D. I'll check now and see how it goes, thanks again! Cheers, J

Great, thanks for the suggestion! I'll have a look in the manual and see what those values are supposed to be, just to be sure. Also need to figure out where the loom plug connectors are :rolleyes: Will see if I can do it this afternoon. Thanks again, Cheers

Hi all, My ABS warning light is permanently on right now, and I'm trying to diagnose what the problem might be. The brakes all seem to work fine, but it's hard to identify if the ABS is actually kicking in. I've recently installed a Syvecs S7i too, so I am not sure what sort of affect this might have on the ABS lights. I have done the ABS diagnostics test by bridging the TC and E1 pins on the diagnostic port in the engine bay. I am getting the following error codes via the flashing ABS warning light: [B]Code 31 - On/Off/On[/B]: Malfunction of right front wheel speed sensor signal. Check speed sensor, sensor rotor, wiring harness and connector. [B]Code 32 - On/Off/On[/B]: Malfunction of left front wheel speed sensor signal. Check speed sensor, sensor rotor, wiring harness and connector. [B]Code 34 - On/Off/On[/B]: Malfunction of speed sensor signal for left rear wheel. Check speed sensor, sensor rotor, wiring harness and connector. [B]Code 36 - On/Off/On[/B]: Open in right front wheel or left rear speed sensor circuit. Check speed sensor, sensor rotor, wiring harness and connector. I'm am dubious as to whether these are actually correct, or whether there is just some electrical gremlin causing the ABS light to stay on (i.e. an MOT fail). The front and rear left ABS sensors should be fine, as they are both connected to the Syvecs, and they would show up as a fault on that. The standard Traction ECU has been removed as the Syvecs deals with all of that too, so I don't seem to have the TRAC On/Off light either to refer to. Has anyone else had this issue and know what it could be? If I can't fix it before the MOT, the bulb is coming out, but obviously I'd rather fix it :). I've also checked the fuses in the engine bay, the [B]ABS 1[/B] fuse is fine, but the [B]ABS 2[/B] fuse doesn't seem to be there! Is that normal? Thanks very much for any help, Cheers, J

Hi all, I have a bunch of stuff up for grabs after some considerable upgrades recently! Everything was working when taken off my car (via Whifbitz), but I've taken as many pictures as I can, as I can't be 100% certain that everything is complete. Happy to take additional photos if needed. Will list them here for a week, and then head over to Ebay if anything is left. Everything was taken off my 1995 (pre-VVTI) 6-speed Manual RZ-S: [B]1. RLTC[/B] - RLTC will all wires and connectors. Straight off my car. Removed because new Syvecs S7i deals with traction control now. - [B]£350[/B] delivered [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/8eq8XdYnwiqDJEtE8"]RLTC 1[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/EpecnNxU2u4vh3KR9"]RLTC 2[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/yBUeCZYCLyhAeWgU8"]RLTC 3[/URL] [B]2. HKS F-Con Pro V Gold[/B] (Ver. 3.2 - Red Sticker) + Full Pre-VVTI Supra Wiring Loom + HKS Navigator display Unit - Removed because upgraded to Syvecs S7i due to lack of HKS-capable tuners near me. Please research this before buying, HKS approved mappers are getting harder to find! - [B]£450[/B] Delivered [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/iomqTDhTBELruz8i6"]F-Con Pro V 1[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lh7UVqwB2uzNReJ27"]F-Con Pro V 2[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/oW63cGVccAmUaG4u8"]F-Con Pro V 3[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/knXV3C6XTLepX3fx9"]F-Con Pro V 4[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/prkd7hZChNeCXEz87"]F-Con Pro V 5[/URL] [B]Precision Turbo T67[/B] - Installed as part of a Boostlogic Single-Turbo conversion kit many years ago. Was sold as a Billet T6765, but I can't find any way to confirm this. The car was running at 520bhp with this turbo, and everything was working fine. Upgraded the turbo to something a bit more modern as part of an engine and ECU upgrade. Has done under 5000 miles since originally fitted, no play in the shafts or anything. Please see the photos! Only identification I can see is A/R .81 - [B]£475[/B] Delivered [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/LgTnWbSz3Wd5DVqD8"]T-67 1[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/267F4K1LfkZhsKHW6"]T-67 2[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/FD2ngFLkZswnnAhP7"]T-67 3[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/yXq111FpUKVydDJg7"]T-67 4[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/dc9mhPsvgg272pcv6"]T-67 5[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/eF4Q4xDDPyJq7cAM8"]T-67 6[/URL] [B]Greddy 3" FMIC + Piping[/B] - 3" Greddy Front-Mounted Intercooler + (I think) all piping (please see photos). Has a flange for Dump Valve fitment. Upgraded to a Whifbitz 4" FMIC to deal with increased power - [B]£250[/B] Delivered [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/NM2xCtixaBpeRZPE8"]FMIC 1[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/1VFvGsvR4VKHndQC9"]FMIC 2[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/btRYwzmjygsVAEti8"]FMIC 3[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/w4wWdLDcccR8g9ip6"]FMIC 4[/URL] [B]Blitz SBC-ID3 Boost Controller + Blitz PowerMeter[/B] - This is the system I was using to control my boost before the Syvecs was fitted. All in perfect working order. I installed it so long ago, that I have genuinely forgotten what came with the kit (lots of wires etc). Please review the photos to see what's there, it's just a mess of wires and things that may, or may not, belong with the system! But all the main parts should be intact. - [B]£200[/B] Delivered [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/kNbJnskAUiKj45Zh7"]Boost Controller 1[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/42eoHgzMXKeH99qt5"]Boost Controller 2[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/JLj1Uu4EpKL6Jc8a8"]Boost Controller 3[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/KDUq8eRnkA2iDnCB6"]Boost Controller 4[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/ihsLKEsHNFxKfQ9AA"]Boost Controller 5[/URL] [B]Innovate LC-1 Wideband Lambda Sensor Controller + Innovate AFR Gauge (Blue)[/B] - Changed this as part of an engine rebuild + Syvecs installation. You will still need an O2 sensor for this to work, as I left that in the car, but the rest is there. Again, please check the photos, or ask if you need me to take some more! - [B]£100[/B] Delivered [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/jKir2aRdN6yCj7zo6"]Innovate 1[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/kXsGfZHpQCfe4QZJ7"]Innovate 2[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/7PBQ3fJUDbrXN6rj9"]Innovate 3[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/PjioGo8gW7Avc6xRA"]Innovate 4[/URL] [URL="https://photos.app.goo.gl/B3z6rEp4tP5KEtAu6"]Innovate 5[/URL] As I said, all of this came out of a 1995 6-Speed RZ-S, but please see the pictures, or ask questions, in case there are some parts I'm missing and don't know about. I'm based in Surrey, not far from Windsor/Guildford, so collection is an option if needed. Happy to get more pictures if needed, but I'm only in the country for a limited time! ;) Cheers, James