jumpbike

Might sound a bit odd but basically my 2jz is swapped into something a bit novelty and purely for random display showing off purposes I thought about installing a Bee-r or something so I can make the noisy bastard fire popping sounds but i'm only on the standard twins using an external wategate and a complete 3" exhaust with a single box. I've never used one and I'd never use it for more than a couple seconds on rare occasions but was just wondering if anyones heard it done on standard twins or any thing? thanks,

How are you going to control the idle with out the idle air control valve? Are the throttle bodys fly by wire?

My engine came with an apexi Rev/Speed meter, one of the first ones but that has the option to remove the speed limiter as long as displaying RPM/speed and does timing runs for 0-60 etc. bit bulky though if you want a clean interior

bumping this to check for interest again as I'm putting a standard one on

sorted it

Hello, I have a list of part numbers for the bearings but I've been told the first shell is wider, does anyone know if the parts numbers are different or if there is anyway of referencing which one needs to be wider? thanks,

as titled, got the choice between ACL, Clevite, Clevite H series or the King race ones that wiffbitz supply. Its only on a BPU engine, standard internals except for pistons. Standard clevites up to the job? thanks,

5th is a 1:1 ratio...

everyone says LS but unless you have actually worked with them its just chatter, to start as I said above, parts are sparse over here, clutches and gearbox's you've never heard of. They are push rod engines, no over head cam shafts etc. which some people will be like eh? price... and as standard engines they don't flow all that well so if you were to turbo one you might be disappointed without flowed heads and aftermarket valve train. The ECU's are quite unreliable also There's variations of the 1UZ, the very first ones have the strongest internals, not sure on a 3UZ but its more power out the box. You can buy an LS400 for a 1UZ for £400 and break the car for more than that including weighing it in. You just need an R154 box, transmission adaptor kit, custom mounts and the ecu and loom from the doner car. To revert back to your original post, cost wise, 300hp and sticking with Toyota, a 3UZ seems your best option.

Yea, 1 and 3UZ are very similar just more power from the 3UZ, the 2UZ has more capacity but is less power and a massive heavy turd

3UZ from a Lexus GS430/LS430, bolts in place of a 1UZ so loads of conversion parts available and block is ali, not pig iron. LS have their problems and you have to wait 3 weeks every time you need a part. Something a bit different could be a V8 from an E92 BMW M3, the gear boxes got for under a grand and the engines can go between 1-2k, not exactly a torque monster but rev well and make top end power. Have a look on driftworks, loads of people doing older BMW V8 swaps

the standard 16" wheels are ET50 I believe and 8's for the front, so you have added 63mm on the rim alone. 12 is a very low offset, especially for a 10" rim. Your arch liners front and back will probably be dust also

I've not had an issue with Dex-III, if you look at other Toyota models that use the same series of box some say type iv some say Dex-III, they are all near identical inside. I know I've got a TT supra box hybrid with a land cruiser box. I think the gaskets come from aftermarket suppliers, Toyota use sealant from the factory, I've never had a problem just using generic sump/water pump silicone

I noticed a lot of posts from chris Wilson about these numbers are specific when the crank is unused in the factory as they are insignificant differences, a worn crank they wont make any difference

I know but the over sizes are if it's been ground aren't they, or if it needs a grind. I heard they were going bump like 4 years ago, seemed to be dragging it but plenty still on shelves I seen. I think my question is do most people get away with standard size and just check for peace of mind or is it very common to need resizing

I've been searching away reading posts from back in the day and still can't get my head round using plastigauge. So you squish it between the bearing and the crank or what not, so if I get standard size ACL's and then check the clearance and its out, then what? Do I have to get the crank reground to suit the next size of shell, in the mean time I've got a box of bearings that I've now opened and soiled. Is it rare that standard size wont work if there's no visible damage and it's just to make sure?

is there not another concern amongst all this that fitting 264's with the standard ecu is going to cause it to idle badly and the fuel mixtures to be lean, plus the whole stock timing map will be out in relation to where the peak torque etc. now is in the power band

if its simply to return the oil to the engine then read about but if its for a standalone oil system, turbos need a pressurized feed, you might be able to find the pressure needed for your turbo somewhere online, a high pressure pump will be needed. 200SX's also have an oil cooler on the diff but the pumps never work because they are thermostatically controlled and they never get hot enough to turn on and just pack in, not sure how the supra system works

I've had it skimmed, 0.1mm off the block and 0.35mm off the head... Im thinking if I get the cometic 1.8mm gasket which is actually 1.77mm this is the closest to make up the difference iv lost and keep it as close the standard.

yea stock cams, there was a good bit of the head damaged between the 2 cylinders where the gasket blew but could only be 0.5mm. I will ask before I order it anyway

alrighty, its a J-spec on hybrid twins with an external gate so no restrictor in the exhaust, 550 injectors and obviously soon to be on a bigger bore. I've got an AEM FI/C so I can sort the fueling but I want to leave the timing as stock as apparently its quite safe standard? As long as it will be safe with the standard pullys for now i'd rather leave them as is and maybe just go a tiny bit on the gasket.

how are cams worked out? Can it just be set by measurement or is it a case of trial and error? I'm about to get round to this on my 200sx which is on a chain so much more a t**t if its trial and error.

Basically while my block is being bored to remove damage to cylinder walls it also needs a minor skim along with the head due to the gasket blowing. I am unsure how much needs removing at the moment, the head might be a bit more than normal due to the damage but the block will be minimal. I will be getting wiseco 86.5 or 87mm pistons in 8.5:1 depending on how big the bore needs to be. (I think the 86.5mm are actually 8.4:1) So basically I know I can get the cometic head gaskets in near enough every 0.1mm from 1.3mm to 2.0mm and then a few sizes even more past this. Obviously I want to keep it as standard as possible to keep my timings near as damn it. Does anyone recommend a certain size that will be plenty and keep it close enough or should I ask the machinist what his estimate is of how much he's taken off and get as close as possible to that, bare in mind if the block needs a skim the pistons might need a tad removing so they don't protrude past the top. thanks,

One important factor that no one seems to have mentioned is the temperature range. Anyone that tracks a car will know the oil very easily surpasses 100-110 degrees on a track and if you have no cooler then most semi-synthetic oils and standard synthetic ones break down around this temperature loosing their properties and basically start baking to everything. Expensive race type oils like Millers CFS and similar are stable to 130 degrees + so you can get away with out an oil cooler more safely or just have a good reliable safety net if you have a proper set up. If anyone has ever seen inside a more modern engine that has been on 'long life' service intervals with 'long life' oil (20k between changes) then you'd have worked out that the bull shit label on the bottle and the instructions in the book are just ink on paper. All the galleries are blocked up, cams wear because the feeds are all just blocked with crud. The oil still ruins the engine as any would if you don't change it at proper intervals so this above anything is the most important factor. Oil quality and ratings is all down to what your expecting from the engine if its pumping out more than stock power, also what you are using it for or simply peace of mind.

I have a waste gate that's not Tial but its very similar, works fine but the clamps are crap. Was looking at the Tial ones but they are too expensive to buy to just try so anybody with a 44mm Tial gate off a car, can you please measure the outside diameter of both V-Band flanges. That would be amazing. thanks