Kaan W

Oh I see, so basically put the red and black probes on either end of the wire I think may be broken and if theres resistance then its broke? But to test pin 14b it will be voltage and I would have to earth the multi meter then put the red probe onto the pin and read the voltage when the torque converter should be locking up?

Thanks mate What will this be testing, the output of the ECU pin?

Yeah a pic would help alot, thanks!

Well then mines definately not locking up! Thats in 3rd also, 4th only switches on once I take my foot off the accelerator.

So I thought I would start this thread in relation to my strange dyno result thread as this is the main topic of why my reading was all over the place. Basically my torque converter is not locking up giving me a sluggish top end and a high fuel consumption on motorways. Is 4000rpm normal at 70mph? So the information I have so far is that the lock up switch is activated by pin 14b in the O.E ECU. I understand I need to test continuety between this pin and the gearbox connection and also output voltage from pin 14b. So the questions I have, as I have no electrical knowledge what so ever are - 1) Do I measure resistance from pin 14b with a multimeter with the car at WOT in 3rd, at idle or with the battery disconnected? 2) How do I measure the resistance do I splice into the wire or pull it out completely and plug the multimeter in? 3) Am I right in thinking that lock up should only occur in 3rd & 4th? EDIT: Just found this - LOCK-UP OPERATION When the engine control module decides, based on each signal, that the lock-up condition has been met, the current through EFI NO. 1 fuse flows from the EFI main relay to TERMINAL 3 of the electronically controlled transmission solenoid to TERMINAL 7 to TERMINAL (B) 14 of the engine control module to GROUND, so continuity to No. 3 (for lock-up) causes lock-up. Thanks

Well done to the both of you! Thats an impressive figure I bet it seems much faster now mate.

Ok David thanks for all the help!

Nice video! But im still confused. Maybe I should take the car to someone that can do it for me or im gunno end up buggering something up. All I can do is check the connections are tight. Maybe I wire broke when removing the old box but I just dont know. Also the "D" light on my speedo is not lighting when in drive when im pretty sure it did before. All the other lights work perfectly but could this be related to the solonoid not locking up in 3rd and 4th?

But if it does, then I risk damaging the box? Im really confused...

But obviously on a dyno when maximum power is being achieved then lock up would be bad right? I always thought lock up should only happen at a percentage of throttle and shut off to allow slip when WOT. So why does Ryan need the TC to lock up when doing a power run?

Also while on the subject, is lock up not bad on the gearbox as in when people say "fit a lock up switch for better mpg but be carefull not to floor it as something will break" Is this the same kind of lock up?

I'll have a look at pin 14b and trace the colour to the gearbox and see if its connected properly. I'll also have a look at the link and check my wiring with a multimeter to see whats happening. Would I not have to be driving under WOT to test the TC lock up wire with a multimeter?

Stock ECU

Thanks! David your a man with great knowledge of the autobox so what wires do I check for the lock up solonoid and how? Hi Brian, im not too sure on that one but I know Ryan checked some fuses inside the fusebox and tried again I think probably to see what you have just mentioned. I know the stock TRAC system is no longer in use but im not sure what is still conected.

Thanks for the fast reply! I will get the electrical system tested and hopefully find the problem and get it fixed. That makes perfect sense mate thanks very much! I was not aware there was a temp sensor on the box as I was looking at getting one fitted to keep an eye on it. I will have a look in the manuals for a wiring diagram, should this show which wires control the lock up from ECU? It must have come with the sensors I think, all I done was bolted it on and connected the shift rod, 2 lines for the cooler and about 5/6 electrical plugs.

I drove for 4 hours when I picked my car up which was the longest journey ive made so far. Apart from the odd pipe leaking which wernt properly installed the engines still running strong with 130k miles on it and running over 500bhp for the past 5 years.

Yeah thats a good point! It does nice but saying that I think heat wrap can look equally nice if done properly. I suppose its all down to what ones budget will allow.

Man, I want your car, the more I look at it the more I think what the £$%! have I done to mine! lol

I would be interested in swapping my UK glass for facelifts...

That looks well smart, would this method be more benificial than heat wrapping?

Mine just goes straight up or stright down and cant stop it halfway, pretty anoying....

Ah ok I didnt know that, thats closer to me too i'll have to take a trip up there when I get time.

I cant really say much because its the only supra ive ever been lol. It does drive real nice but I have to say when it was dyno'd at that figure it makes you wonder what all these 1000+ lads experience on the street Im sure you know your stuff mate so I trust you that it must be quick, but as you said a nice printout would have just finished the day nicely. I think I might just attend some rwyb days to get a better knowledge of the setup and see if its doing what its suppose to Ha I doubt it mate yours will be stupidly fast I guess i'll have too, wheres the closest hub dyno to Kent do you know mate?

Been thinking about going manual after all this mate lol. It probably is something simple but it just seems there is always something, I definately need to consider a rebuild at some point. How did yours get on anyway? It is strange I just cant get my head around it. Its hard to tell if theres a difference but it definately dont feel slower, its something I will have to wait until the summer when the roads are hot.

It does feel very aggresive to drive but the numbers are just not showing. Also I just took the car out and overdrive and manual mode is working correctly after reading what the actuall functions of these are Im really baffled on the whole situation and dont know what to do