Kaan W

U Cheers mate, it's a nice car and has had a fair amount of cash spent on it but it's just stupid little disasters like 20 year old hoses bursting etc thats keeping me off the road. Every problem is an excuse for new parts so it's a win win It was lowered another 30 mm but was forever scraping my exhaust and bumpers so I lifted it. I don't mind tho I'll maybe just bring the front back down slightly.

Yeah no worries mate I keep meaning to pop by yours at some point. Pretty much mate, I just need the line pressure on the transmission tested but apart from that it's all good

Ive decided to make start on my interior as its looking a bit dated and tatty so I started yesterday on the centre console by blanking the unnecessary holes with black plastic then skimming over with body filler. After this I marked the holes to hold the Syvecs Display and Cal Switch. When im happy with the shape and design of all the panels the complete dash trim will be sprayed the same colour as the car (Lambo Grey). As for 3rd hole ive made this is for the Syvecs CAL switch which I will mount here with a black backing plate in the same design as the heater controls but with the numbers 1-8 and then i'll use a heater tempreture knob to make it look completely OEM. All knobs and switches will be back lit with high bright blue leds. Heres a bit of progress so far -

It needs removing or I can't install my led rears.

Heres mine crack free -

Nice car! As said I doubt it will crack if done correctly. JamiePs wide Nur arches were bonded on and they never cracked with the insane power put through the chassis, it didnt looked rubbish either.

Mmmmmm I like

Apparently lol. Ive never witnessed it myself but ive heard about it, i'll have a search for it next timeive got my boot trim off.

How dare you! lol. Yeah I agree it is a LOT of work but if you do it properly it will be just fine. Use body sealent and rivets to bond the panel to the body then fibreglass the bonded parts on with great care to detail etching all the surfaces the fibreglass covers which will make the join stronger than the panel itself I wasnt worried about taking panels off as the skirts dont ever need to come off imo and neither does the rear bumper if everything looks good behind. I replaced my fuel tank cover and undersealed the rear of the car before it was bonded on for good incase something started to rot. Even then I can always cut the difuser from the trial rear to access everything then just rivet it back on neatly for a different kind of look

I have LED rear lights on my car and it brings up the rear light out sign, main warning triangle and the handbrake light. this would be usefull to know also but ive been told you can just remove the rear light ecu in the boot and no lights will show when using leds.

Do it, it's your car! I done my whole car and it hardly looks "awful".

Thats what I was thinking, its just knowing what wire, I will have to look at some electrical diagrams.

I could but there must be a better place for an alarm to tap in rather than going into the engine loom as Ian said.

Thanks Littler doing this now. Also for the 3 switches for seats, TC and spoiler can I leave these unplugged as none of this stock equipment is in place anymore?

Anyone know? Im cleaning the mess of wires around the car and might aswel do this whilst everythings out.

Half carbon painted Thats what ive got anyway.

Lol

Can you change mine from 490 Bhp to 539.1 Bhp please

I never said the ecu was rubbish I just thought after going into limp mode it might run a base map and needs resetting. Erm... Ok

Bit harsh? And I would imagine a fair few would buy my car when everything's finally done and it hasn't got a bad press at all.I would never sell this with problems which is why I have spent thousands getting the car right, besides ive not even had it a year there's bound to be little things here and there which everyone experiences. I just ask more than others I suppose. By the time I come to sell, the car will be bullet proof as im going for a full rebuild over next winter built block the lot. - - - Updated - - - Seriously?

Just a simple mistake really when fixing my oil leak it came off and I took a rough guess at which port to put it on.

It's ok ive sorted it It was a vacuum pipe on the wrong port on the boost solenoid.

Actually what is the plastic box with a wire where the vacuum pipes connect to? It's like a T piece but only 2 pipes connected which I took one off when fixing the oil leak, could I of put it back on the wrong one would this cause the problem?

Ok guys I will check everything over, pretty sure something's up tho as its done it ever since it cut the engine out.