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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

RB-GTE

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Everything posted by RB-GTE

  1. I have a replica Ridox front bumper and the fitment is pretty good. The only real issue I have is bolting it at the top edges to the fender, from inside it has been a PITA for the bolts to properly hold. I have seen especially on race cars, drift cars, etc.. where there is this clip/bracket that is attached to the fender and bumper. I wouldn't mind the look. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? if so is there anywhere I could buy something like this or would I have to custom make it myself. Also if anyone has any pictures of something like this, I have seen some Supra's with them but can't find the pictures.
  2. Thanks for the replies, What I have now is, to be exact: BorgWarner Airwerks S366 .91 A/R Twin Scroll (66mm wheel) . It costed me $600 US dollars. Well, it looks like I'm going to to just sell it off. What would be the spool difference between S362 and S360? because I'm interested in either one of these two. Now the question is with what kind of manifold? Would S360 on a tubular mani be a nice setup? or cast? BW have larger large turbine sizing even for a small compressor like 60mm setup, so I'd still expect it to do fairly well up top.
  3. How would a cast mani hold up to some anti lag action? just so when I get someone riding my ass I can melt their bumper off. I just want full spool by about 4000rpm (just like my current BPU TTC setup). Would the cast mani get me close to that? or is the S366 just too big
  4. It is still brand new, and have someone wanting to buy it off me for more than I paid (I got it on a discount through someone) so I have the flexibility of getting rid of it and getting something smaller although the S362 seems to be twice as much cost? I got my AirWerks S366 for over twice as cheap! converting over to pounds it was just £380 I understand there are better options out there, I'm just seeing what I could do with this turbo.
  5. I purchased a borg warner S366 turbo, I went with it since price was great and they seem to have a good rep for making good power and taking abuse well. My goal is to get some nice low/mid-end power, about 550-600bhp MAX (will be stock fuel system other than injectors/pump). I have a 3" exhaust (no resonator) and ARC 2 row intercooler. And for the single setup I was thinking of a 3" downpipe and possibly a cast manifold, although I'd prefer a tubular manifold I think. would this keep everything flowing nice without much lag and full spool by 4000rpm? I believe it is a 66mm turbo, so trying to see what I can get out of it. I drove a GT35R supra with 460whp and it was amazing, then I drove a 550whp supra with some T78 which didn't fully spool till like almost 5500 :/ .. felt sluggish. It is a street car but I'm trying to keep it track oriented. any input would be great, cheers!
  6. hmm perhaps. So I plan to top out at 500whp after upgrading injectors I think even a Precision 5862 should get me there apparently it will make 500whp on about 1.4 bar It's a 58mm so seems like it would have a crazy spool up.
  7. You're right, that is a fast car. Heck I think the setup I have now is fast, so about 500bhp should keep me satisfied for a while. Then I can always upgrade to larger ones in the future. I'm gonna get my guy to do a compression test, while he's at it we will check if the cams are stock or not. The car has this certain deepness and sound to it unlike other BPU Supra's with stock cams I've heard. I didn't know about the 550cc and HKS F con with getting the car to begin with.
  8. By 'budget' It was more so to do with if I'd be able to keep my 550 injectors and intercooler. I will still get a quality turbo and parts, so there is nothing really bad about that thanks for the info, I might go aim for 450whp range now and stay on 550cc then eventually swap them out for 650cc and up the boost to 500whp. Or just do it right away. I need to check my clutch also, all I know is its aftermarket w/ LWFW, but I'll most likely be upgrading that too.
  9. Yes that's what I mean. The car was mapped in Japan, for japanese fuel, and in a different climate. The car usually will die on me 2-3 times before it actually starts, and when it warms up it idles at aroud 500-600rpm on average. It runs great just a bit sloppy due to the bad tune. The problem seems to be a bad tune I'm not really worried about any other problems. Talked with a few shops about it already. One way or another I need to get my ECU map sorted/get a new one, and I was planning on getting a new boost controller. I'd rather put that money towards single.
  10. Have looked into it already! was planning on keeping it but only found one person who can tune it but is a long drive away and will charge an arm and leg. Luckly It has a harness so can be simply unhooked.
  11. Precision 6262 is a 62mm, and with a .68 A/R seems good and the price is rather good. So I'm rather decided on it, and they make great power. Hmm, I guess I could always just sell off the 550's which would offset the cost of a new set. What size would be ideal for 500whp ? in BHP I'm guessing that's around 550bhp or so.
  12. edited my post added some more info
  13. Sorry for the long type up but any help/input would be great, cheers! Current performance mods: 3" exhaust, DP, midpipe. ARC 2 row IC Denso drop-in 550cc Injectors on stock rail Walbro 255pump HKS F-CON S (might possibley have HKS 264 cams as well, need to pull my cam covers off and check). Have been running BPU (TTC mode) about 500 miles or so now. Car recently made 367whp and 349whp at 18.5psi (1.25 bar). This was with a faulty/badly setup HKS EVC4 and bad tune, and only one pull was made due to some engine knocking at higher RPM. HKS piggyback came with car from Japan. Around here (I'm not in the UK btw..), no one will tune this HKS. I was planning to do a single setup soon but not this soon, I'm also tight on $$$ at the moment but I can still manage. Basically my turbo seals are on the way out/or gone. Found a lot of fresh oil in intercooler pipes, I have been losing a little bit of oil, also blue smoke on cold star up, take-off's and when boosting. I don't want to put anymore money towards TT setup and go straight to single. My plan for now is keep the 550cc Injectors, swap out the HKS for a MAP ECU piggyback (essentially the samething but at least I can have it tuned, and for less). Also will upgrade to a bigger Walbro 400lph pump. I know some people will advice against piggyback but around here many people run them and they are just fine for these power levels. My questions: I have read that on Supra's, 1 Injector cc = 1whp (so 550 = 550whp)? I know that's MAXING them out if that's even possible. Would I be able to achieve 500whp safely? IF NOT, I plan to settle around 450whp range till I could upgrade to something larger. Would my 2 row intercooler be too restrictive or ideal for my power? or would 3 row add benefit or just more lag? I'm aiming for a setup that will outperform my BPU TTC setup. So full spool at or before 4000rpm. I have been thinking precision 6262 .68 A/R with cast manifold with a 3" downpipe. Or any reason why I should go tubular? I figured cast would be better for low end power on the street. I know it will make the power, then I can turn it up to 500 or so. THIS IS a street car daily driver (only stored away for winters). So by budget what I mean is if I can keep my 550cc and intercooler for my power goals? I'm really not looking to make all that much power for 2JZ standards so looking to work with that I got, since I'm away 100whp+ from my goals. I want 500whp, just keep it nice and simple, and leave the stock fuel lines alone. I'm underestimating for 450 for now since I'm not sure if my Injectors will support the power.
  14. Well, if you have a STOCK series 2 dash with no vinyl overlay then you can give it a light sand with something around 1000grit sand paper and then prime and paint it. Mine had rubbery/stickers that held my OEM viny overlay which was impossible to remove, so I had to sand it off with 80 grit, then smoothed it out with 180 and then 400 grit. It was quite a bit of work due to the sanding And series 1 dash is a whole nother level of worth with the rubbery stuff on it
  15. well I ended up just doing flat black and I must say I already regret it lol It just looks a bit boring I think I'll do a dark titanium color eventually
  16. The ohlins came with the car when I bought it. And the allen key I tried was an HKS damper adjusterment tool which is rather long (about 4") I'll have to probably let these go and get something else, they feel amazing on turns and handling but sometimes almost unbearable to drive it on uneven roads.
  17. My series 2 Supra came with what I believe was factory carbon fiber trim overlay on the dashboard. I pulled it off, and there is sections of this rubbery tape/glue which is impossible to get off. So it looks like I'll have to sand the whole dashboard and then have it painted, which sucks because I love the original series 2 dashboard color... My Supra is moonstone, I was thinking maybe doing flat black? it would look nice and clean, and match my all black interior. Or a dark grey color?
  18. Hey guys so I was able to snap some pictures, these are my rears, front are the same of course. My mechanic said they are not adjustable for dampening, or they possibley might be if I manually do it on the coilovers (removing the wheels). I hope not Thoughts?
  19. RB-GTE

    Hks f-con s?

    Yep my mechanic also said there is a good chance I might be running upgraded cams as well! I'll have to pull the cam covers off and take a look. But anyways, the car idles low often and it has a very rough start on cold start. I'll figure out tomorrow if we can find anyone locally to tune/map it (I don't live in the UK btw).
  20. RB-GTE

    Hks f-con s?

    So today I was installing my Walbro 255 to only find out I already had a Walbro. Then I was about to install my HKS FCD to only find out I have a HKS F-CON S?? that's an unexpected surprise. THEN I also found out I had 550cc Injectors... a bunch of surprises. I didn't know my car had these things. I did some research and I'm trying to figure out what the HKS F-CON S actually does, and some of the features. Is this a MAP based ECU piggyback? because its attached to my stock ECU, wired into the harness. My TT is basically BPU right now. Is this also suiteable for a single turbo setup? Any links on information I could reach about it? cheers!
  21. problem solved it ended up being the boost controller, no actual issue with the engine boost controller was completely removed and everything was rerouted and hooked up again with the vaccum lines.
  22. Based on reviews I have been reading, it leads me to believe that the BC would be similar to the Megan series. I have decided to just skip the Tein's. I'll just decide the both of those and order this week
  23. I wouldn't go that far of a downgrade. The body roll on stock suspension and height is not for me. I do want coilovers for sure. I'm just trying to see what my options are. One of mate's in the United States can give me a big discount on Megan Racing LP coilovers. The springs rates aren't affected by ride height, and have 32 way dampening. Apparantly they ride even smoother than stock but aggressive around corners. I can get these for less compared to Tein SS. But Tein is more of a recognized brand.
  24. There is a good chance my Supra will never see the track, I just use it as a street daily driven car, also I like to go on some twisty roads in the warmer months (so handling/corning is quite important as well) My current coilover setup that came with my Supra is a track setup (solid as a brick). And I will be swapping it out for something less harsh. So with those things aside, based on my budget and purpose of my Supra, I'm thinking the Tein SS coilovers are the best bet? They have 14kg spring up front and 8kg rear. To me the most important is good dampening which Tein seems to be good with. So I can just switch between soft/hard depending what I'll be doing with the car. Anyone here have experience with the Tein SS? cheers!
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