GTR Fever

Thanks man. Was wondering if there was a fuse or relay somewhere that I was missing. Will update accordingly.

With the hazards on, all but the left rear work. Tested the socket and it's not getting power.

Hello everyone, Took my Supra for a spin and noticed that the left rear indicator is not working (blinker/ indicator blinks faster now). So I checked the bulb, it's good. Still changed it and it does not work. Any ideas? It's a NA/ TT swap auto supra if that helps in this case. Cheers.

Engine Type - TT (From a 1995 Aristo) Mods - Front mount intercooler, HKS FCD set to 9, Greddy foam filter, Aeromotive stealth fuel pump Engine Spec - Stock Turbo - Stock JSpec twins Fuel Used - 95 octane (Not ideal, our fuel here in Trinidad sucks) Exhaust - 3.25" Blitz NUR Spec fully decatted Transmission - A340 Auto ECU - Stock Dyno Used - Dynoget Power figure - ~315rwhp (314.64whp to be exact) Torque figure - ~300 ftlb Boost Pressure - 15psi (1 bar) Ambient temperature - 35 degrees celcius

I would agree with everyone so far...get it sorted then see how you feel. An alternator is a straightforward repair job. Then you can drive the car again and see if the love starts flowing. Don't be like me and sell it. (ended up buying it back from the guy after a month of regret)

I'm running a Mishimoto 3 core as well. Price was not far different from the 2 core. Regarding quality, only issue I had to far was the filler neck leaking under hard pulls so I just welded it and I'm running a normal radiator cover, not the standard mishimoto. Had it about 5 years now, no complaints really and it is REALLY hot where I am from.

A little late on updates but that's ok. Decided to tackle the black floor carpet piece by piece. Did the individual pieces first, big difference and now I can't wait to dye the entire mat! After the rewiring and a few other things being sorted, I took it back to the dyno and made significantly more power than last time, 315rwhp! That for me is impressive since it was on 95 RON fuel, very hot ambient temperature and just below 15psi with an automatic trans. She pulls much harder than before too! Started my brake upgrade which included: Cusco brake master stopper, Goodridge steel braided brake lines, STOPTECH disc pads, Brembo LCF600 brake fluid. Got the brake master stopper installed and can already feel a difference on heavy braking. This weekend I plan to tackle the pads, lines and fluid...will service and paint the calipers while I'm there.

SC300 and Supra are essentially the same platforms. Better yet, if it's the same part number you should be good to go!

Love the interior. Good job on the details...getting seats, door trims, boot trim etc all matching. My only suggestion would be to get a new shift knob that matches your new interior.

I'm interested in all of them!

I am running 25mm hub centric spacers on my car over 4 years now...no problems to date! Just be sure to clean both contact surfaces of all small surface rust for a super smooth contact. Oh and I hammer on my car most of the time it's driven..lol

I want a new knob but don't know where to get it or how to change it Also won't mind a new e-brake handle *in for advice on how to remove

^ as David said again...drain some oil and check it properly.

that is the next plan of attack. Dreading all the scrapping involved but it's needed in my opinion.

Also changed my very old head unit to a nice Pioneer bluetooth setup (bought this for the Supra for Christmas lol) Most recently I took apart all the interior plastic trims to get them hydrodipped. They were pretty old and scratched. Got them back after around two weeks and installed the next day!

Ok so finally some more updates (almost forgot about this thread) Window regulator and seatbelt from Keron installed and working perfectly! Installed some proper gauges/ gauge pod. Prosport boost, water temp and oil pressure with a gauge pod specific for Supra..looks so much better! With park lights off With park lights on

bright pink?? I have never seen this either. Prob got water mixed in? And David is correct, sort out the odometer issue first. That circuit is really tricky as it depends on the other units for proper function (kick down, shift up/ down, speedo, odometer etc).

I have prosport carbon bonnet/ hood dampers on my car which work perfectly...direct bolt on as well!

Assuming you checked the level properly (engine started and gears R, N, D, 1 selected before putting back into P/ N to check level), look at the lines themselves to make sure they have no kinks anywhere or restrictions.

as David said, one litre is enough to cause poor function. Hell even 500ml can cause it! Fluid level is extremely important. Hope it's a simple fix like topping up the oil!

oh and you can check it when cold as well. What I do is usually with two people but one person could work. Start engine and select gears R, D, 2, 1, N, R, D then back to N before checking the oil level. This allows all the valves/ solenoids to open and fill with oil before getting the level.

it sounds like your transmission was giving a small slip which is why I suggested the oil level. Especially after my experience doing the same thing like an idiot lol

It sounds like you are low on transmission fluid. Remember you will need more oil than standard since you are running an external oil cooler. Check the fluid level properly to be sure. From my past experience, it takes just less than a quart of oil extra to fill the trans cooler (I'm running a Mishimoto external transmission oil cooler)

This is why my Supra doesn't see much sunlight....absolutely afraid of this. Not only the damage to the car but what damage I'd do the the persons if I catch them in the act! But the rook repair should not be that bad. Do as previously suggested and remove the roof liner and press the top gently while someone is outside heating the paint.

What exactly is the pressure tank?