costas1

Great info..can someone pls explain what drive by wire means?instead of an idle valve?

Hi guys..i am bit desperate cause the car is been sitting in a paint garage for the last 10 days cause it seems no paint shop here is able to create gold color paint..does anybody have here gold wheels tha can give me a color code with.a.picture? I have a set of technospeed z1 and wanted to respray them so.i am.looking anything similar and i know blitz will not give the.color code...

as far as the tps calibration goes this is what i found mate http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?450071-TPS-Adjustment-Procedure-and-Testing-Procedure

exactly..and quite expensive also..here most of the people use the AEM kit

thx chris.. as said took it to a few garages nobody found the problem..we actually took the pump apart and checked the electronic plate inside..seemed to be ok..but when on car nothing seems to work..so i quit trying a couple of years ago..maybe i will try again one last time following your instructions..its a petty though cause it seems to be a good setup as you mentioned above

there are a few possible reasons for that.. no 1 start the car and use a carbulator spray or break cleaner spray and start spraying the whole area you worked on one place at a time..if the engine revs a bit higher or the engine noise change there you have a leakage no.2.. as above check again all the vaccum pipes you removed that all are in correct place and not broken no.3 take out the idle valve and clean it very good with carb cleaner..there are instructions online no.4 you probably messed the calibration of the TPS (throttle position sensor).. again there are instructions online how to calibrate it no.5 i had the same issues after removing throttle and after of 2-3 days of driving the car was fixxed by its self so do everything above drive the car a couple of days and leave no4 for last

i have an aquamist (ERL 1s) on my car but i think it stopped working some years ago..tried to find out what happened took it to a few garages but noboby manage to find the problem so it just sits there on the car dead.. the pump seems to work when you supply it with 12v charge (spits actually)..the pressure sensor seems to be fuctional (tested with voltometer)..the tank has still liquid in but when the car is running the hose is half fulled with that..seems it does not reach the nozzle..maybe the pump is dead and will not push the liquid harder..dont know

First of all do not worry about these boost spikes..i have the same setup and i have.been hitting these boost for.years now...second get used to the fact that j spec turbos.tend to overboost a bit...now.you.got.your ring keep.in mind that that 1 bar is.the lowest.you.can.hit..(bcc turned off)..as the settings go mk4gaz explained it very nice..one thing he.forgot.and important make sure you set at 10-15% the limitation ...it is after the high boost setting and this for the controller to lower the boost 10% when you pass the desired limit..(maybe cold night or.different gas )..other than that you will be fine... i made 425 on the wheels at 1.25 on a dynojet with exact same setup...

Hi there.. can somebody please supply me with the procedure of calibrating TPS on a vvti twin turbo ? i found one on another supra forum but does not.say.if its applied on a non vvti or vvti...will that be an issue? Thx

There is a chance that you already.have a ring but you keep hitting this boost..j spec are know for.overboosting a bit..check your air/fuel ratio and if you car its.mapped ok.you will.be fine..i.have.been running.1.2 for the last 10.years and its all good..

Did you check the fuel pump?seems its missing fuel on full throttle

ok fair enough:) do you happen to know what fault codes am i looking for in case of a TPS issue?

no not yet cause these days are holidays here..everything is closed until wednesday..so i will have to wait.. do you have a facebook account or a website for your buisinness or store? i cant seem to find anything..i want to suggest you to some other supra friends..

seems these days a lot of people are having issues with vvti inlet manifolds and throttle... basically what chris said.just tape them so you make sure they are not messed.also the idle valve is different than a non vvti but is placed at the same place..

the car starts ok i could say..no warning lights on the dash..dont know about fault codes did not put it on a diagnostic computer so far..seems to drive good..sometimes will not boost full..0.9 instead of 1.1 ,1,2 but my main problem is when i am driving and release the clutch and go to neutral to stop lets say to traffic lights rpm goes below 700-750 which is the normal..drops to 450-500 and rises up again to 700..i wiil post a video also..

@Chris..what would the symptoms be if the TPS needs calibrating again?.thx

Thx chris appreciate that..i hope its just air leakage..he promised that he did not touch the tps or the black thing covering it

When putting back the manifold shall i use sealing paste?and if i use a new gasket shall i use it again?also is there specific torque to tighten the bolts and if yes how much is it?

First of all thx for the reply chris.. yes you are right i.was talking about the TPS..screws and that black.plastic with the 4 screws on it.. what i am asking is do all these symptoms make sense if i messed up the TPS...would the car behave like that if the TPS needs calibration again?..had the car 5 years now never had issues before..just now with that.... i found directions how to calibrate it in another forum but no pictures so i dont know which screw is what..can you help me with that?stop end screw etc.. Talked to the guy that worked on the manifold now and said that he did not removed the black plastic with the 4 screws and the fuse..(dont know how its called)..so tps would not be affected right..he said by the symptoms that most probably. Its air leakage and that i shoud have put new gaskets (manifold and throttle) when i put back everything back which i didnt..put the same ones ..would you agree with that?

Hi there Need some help guys..i took out inlet manifold and throttle and took it for a polish work..told the guy not to mess with the map.sensor screws adjustments..he took everything out put them back together but now the car is not working right..idle rpm are higher the car will not pull as hard as before and when you hit the gas and release it the rpm sometimes drop to zero and the car shuts down while still moving..did the.map sensor has adjustment screws and the guy messed them up?and if yes.how do i adjust it again? Is there something i should have marked before i gave it to that guy?how do i readjust it now? Of course i hope this is the problem but since i had the car 5 years now never had issues..only now..

Thx chris..,. I have to check.some.other stuff also.so.i.am sure before i change it...

When are you going to start selling yours?i will check some other stuff first and if it keeps running lean i might change it with one of yours..strange thing is that is been fitted on the car for the past 8 years and run good..this.is the first time i checked the afr and showed 14 on wot...we will see..is it.easy to replace the hks.with yours?

So how can we test if the hks fcd is responsible for running the car lean besides replacing it?

I have the hks fcd fitted for the last 8 years..the car is running 1.2 bar..took it on the dyno a few weeks ago (see post running lean on jspec bpu) and on wot the afr was 14...could this be a problem? What can i.do? Thought of flow testing injectors change fuel filter and check the.exhaust for any leakage first..never thought of fcd beeing the problem

Thx mate for the reply..we will see in a few days