TopSecret1

I am thinking of just leaving it there. Do you have any examples of yours?

The last owner on my Supra relocated the battery. He just put it on top of the carpet and it looked out of place. So I am trying to get it placed somewhere clean and stable. What do you guys think about this location for the battery? Do you think its possible for me to have my carpet normally in the trunk and just cut it a bit so my battery sticks through it? This particular battery is quite big, the rear seat barely closes. I may try and get a slimmer battery. Or maybe there is a better place where I can mount it?

just PM'd him, thanks. hope he has one

hey guys I need the stereo bracket piece which holds the stereo in place. does anyone have the toyota parts number, or maybe from Japan? I usually buy my parents from a Toyota dealer in the United States but this part is different between LHD and RHD. thanks in advance.

anyone here can chim in from their experience? I'm not too sure what I'd like to do. Currently I don't like my setup. There is a rough metal againts metal vibration sound up to about 2800 rpm. here is a video, if you listen 0:17 - 0:32, that's me accelerating on and off. Doesn't sound right, and doesn't feel right. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrdhVTserIU&feature=channel_video_title I don't mind the noise at idle with LWFW as long as it opperates normally. I'd ideally like to keep my LWFW I just hope the sprung hub disc will make every right. by end of this year I will have my midpipe, top decat, and bbc installed. I pretty much have everything else.

In general I though this: Sprung disk + Lightweight Flywheel = suggested Unsprung disk + OEM flywheel = recommended/good set-up without noise at idle please correct if i'm wrong just based what I have gathered from research. I'm sure it will work on a flywheel. I bought it from MVP motorsports and I told them it would be going with OEM flywheel. I later changed my mind for the Fidanza. I mostly drive my car around town, and when the weather is good in the spring/summer I like to take it for some hard spirtied drivers and a few track days. Besides that nothing too crazy. Ideally I though having the LWFW was beneficial for quicker rev's and acceleration. So if I just got a sprung disc would this not be a bad setup? I would feel a bit better giving up the disc instead of flywheel lol. Just spent too much money for everything. My Supra will be staying BPU as well, currently BPU.

so my best bet would be just to get an OEM flywheel? will my current RPS setup would be fine with it? I hope to god it will be! I spent nearly $2000+ USD on parts since I was converting back from push to pull. I had a twin disc setup. The flywheel maybe has 2000km on it along with all the other clutch components. Just had it done 6 weeks ago.

I'm using a RPS full face unspring disc with my 14lb Aluminum LWFW. there is a very loud vibrating/chattering noise, like a metal againts metal sound when engaged in gear and accelerating. I know that a light weight fly wheel will always make noise and be a bit loud... but I with mine it just doesn't sound right at all... do I need a sprung hub disc? what kind are you guys using?

I can also make the engine idle at 2,000 RPM. Then put it back at 2,000 RPM. Hmm looks like I'm answering my own questions lol. Well as long as its doable I'll feel better doing it.

I wanted to get a overlay for my speedo and tach. Also maybe the fuel and water reading. This is the series 1 style. I know this will require to remove the needles. So when I put it back together. When I put the needles back in place will it automatically adjust itself? so if I'm going 100km or its revving 3000 rpm I want to be very accurate. What's the best way to to put it back in place? I will also be doing the full LED conversion on my dashboard. I think I'll just leave the stock needle lights but may wanna paint them red... currently mine look an ugly and faded. I just wanted to see what I'm getting myself into here..

ah I see, well thanks I'll get on it tomorrow, cheers

and wouldn't I be able to swap the "guards" between both the cars as well? or no

Do I really need the guards though? isn't that the piece that wraps around the disc? it looks ugly and rusted. I was thinking of getting some brand new discs/rotors. for example something like this, very clean!! http://www.fizzautosports.com/js300/gallery/sema2006/IMG_0761.JPG

thanks

I have a 1995 TT with N/A brakes. Friend has 1996 N/A with TT brakes (his is the SZ-R model). He is building it as a drag car, and said for slicks the N/A brakes will be better. So I can get a hell of a good deal doing a trade! my question is can I do a straight swap by putting my N/A brakes on his car, and then putting his TT brakes on my car. I am talking about the whole setup with rotor, disc, etc.

Ah I see. Well would it be worth it getting the Aristo? Supra engine is about $1000 more.

hey guys when buying an engine for a swap (2jz-gte) does it matter what car is came from? such as the aristo or some lexus? with a 2jz from supra I know from research that the harness and everything is motly plug and play... a 2jz-gte setup with ecu/harness from an Aristo would that be a straight swap or anything neeeded?

With LSD traction control isn't my concern really yes I like that lower end acceleration/power with the low ratio. if anyone has any experience feel free to chim in it would be helpfull. cheers

for re-selling? or buying? In general its pretty normal like in the United States, selling cars is a bit harder here though since this is a left hand drive region. I'd be importing the Supra from Japan of course. SZ-R series 2 just became legal here.

This is exactly the reason I am considering SZ-R 6-speed. I think its a pretty striaght forward swap? I have been digging up some old threads and it seemed pretty basic from the swaps people have done. And I don't see why the SZ-R differential would be bad? especially for BPU levels.

I currently have a Supra which I am wanting to sell and start all over. With the next one its something I'd plan to keep for quite a while. Resale is not my concern as its not that big of an issue here. the 3.77 gearing ratio diff has the torrsen LSD as well correct? I don't see why it shouldn't be good for a BPU Supra? I know that it will be slightly shorter gearing compared to the 3.26 diff but I have driven the SZ-R and the gearing ratios are pretty good to me. I wouldn't mind buying a RZ diff If I had too though, factoring in the costs I can get one as well. The way I am looking at it is that I can get a nice looking SZ-R with lower mileage for cheaper, and newer, then after I'm down swapping and even getting some mods done... it would end up being about the same cost as a 93-96 RZ. and I have some people, I can have the swap done in a day with my assistance its not the biggest issue. I know that I want to do this, I just wanted to see what others think of it. Also if its got the smaller brakes that doesn't bother me as I'd eventually upgrade those. To get a low mileage good condition TT6 it costs quite a good amount, and I can achieve this with SZ-R swap for much less.

First off I live in Canada, so pricing may be a bit different, and I will give you the prices in US dollars here I am considering buying a 1996.7+ SZ-R Supra which is equipted with the V161 transmission. With the costs, I would pay about $8,000 less compared to an original TT6 RZ. I would be getting a good condition fairly low mileage SZ-R as well. If I added that extra $8k to get a TT it would pretty much be a basic normal mileage RZ, and years 1993 - 1996... With SZ-R I would end up with having an extra $8000 to play around with. So I can get a low mileage 2JZ-GTE motor great shape with everything and the harness shipped for about $3000 USD. I have a couple sources and this is about the price. So after the swap I still would have money to play around with to get some nice BPU upgrades or perhaps a small single turbo. Esentially I would end up with a better Supra than a normal RZ I could have bought. Also with a new motor I can get it in tip top shape since it will be easier to get the maintance done out of the car. Do you guys think its not all that bad of an idea? just trying to get some other input. Cheers! edit: by the way its not really a budget, I am just saying I would have an extra $8k if I got an SZ-R instead of RZ... and with that $8k i can build it up MYSELF. It would need to be a swap for sure I wouldn't be interested in NA-T. I'd sell the 2JZ-GE motor.

I filled my radiator up to the top. It takes about 15 minutes for the engine to warm up in pretty cold weather. I then get steam coming up from around the radiator cap. I put a towel around the rad cap and there is still some steam coming from the area, a bit bellow it I think. So at this point I'm wondering if I may possibley have a leak or crack somewhere on my radiator.

No i haven't changed the rad cap. I have a mishimoto rad with the mishimoto cap. when I started my car today after running about 15 minutes steam started leaking through the radiator cap.... but why is it getting so hot in the first place? that's why it makes me believe its the thermostat.

Thanks, I was planning on getting it done today but had somethings stopping me. Seems like it would be a lot more simple with a stock engine. I have Trust twin intake, I had to remove it. I am able to put my hand down and touch the hose, but there is not enough room to work with. the biggest pain is there is a bunch of random wires just beside the alternator. I jacked the car and seemed a bit tight under there as well. I'll remove the alternator and see if it gives me any clearance in room. If its still a pain I'll just hire a mechanic to come and get it done.. is is what I'm working with: http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/7962/img0144yr.jpg http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/6631/img0145kd.jpg