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The turbos get between 1 and 4 minutes cool down depending on timer and oil changed between 3-4000 miles. Could there be a blockage if my pipes are straight through/no cats or are we talking about debris from the tail pipe?

Cheers mate, ill read the other thread and have look, will probably call you just to make sure ive done it right.

Cheers dude, ill find the thread and have a read.

So far the only checks that have been done were mentioned above (road test at 1.4 checking EVC readings, disconnect EVC, then road test with seperate boost guage connected, finally road test with boost guage and pipe removed from wastegate), forgot to mention also a check with the sensor in the exhaust pipe and headphones (excuse my lack of terminollogy) which was done before the others. If i remember rightly this was done to detect det and not to do with checking boost. Just thinking, is it possible that i could have connected one of the hoses that flew off a few weeks back into the wrong position and still maintained some sort of maintainable boost. i say this because there were 2 openings below where it fell off which could have fitted the pipe equally. Im doubting this because on one of the road tests a pipe flew off the seperate boost feed and we had to crawl back at 5mph for 2 miles, so i wouldn't think this would be possible, just thinking aloud really.

Thanks dude. Someone is doing the work for me. The vsv's are one of the next things their going to check but ive been told their not that accessable. With regards to the pressure tank, this was never mentioned as a possible cause (i don't think it was anyway) and don't think it been checked. Personally im not sure where it is and how to check it, is it something i could do myself. Cheers bud.

Can anyone shed any light on the above, or is it a lost cause and just take it to bits???

Sorry, it should have been obvious that you needed these:twak: Uk spec tt manual. Forged pistons, 256/264 cams+gears, s type FMIC, VPC, FCD, induction, ssqv bov, EVC 4, superdragger, no cats(1st gutted, hydrids, rltc, twin power delivery, 2.0mm MHG,t timer. Nothing else i can think of that is significant. Its getting to the stage where i think the actuators (if thats the right term) are going to be checked and the 2nd turbo even though it seems to be working. I was about to use this money for a respray, happens everytime, think of an improvement to do and the car relinqueshes you of that cash to sort a problem.

Did a search on this but people had various different scenarios. I went to get the car checked over today and it turns out that even when the boost controller is set to 1.4 bar the car barely hit 1.0 bar. I havn't got a boost guage so never really noticed a lack of power on 2nd before. TBH i only run it at what i thought was 1.4 about 10 times in the last year and i wondered why it didn't feel any different. The boost controller was disconnected and a seperate guage plumbed in, the pipe off the wastgate was disconnected so that the car should have reached at least 1.3+, even then it only just reached 1.0bar. There is a surge of power at 4000rpm but apparantley not as much as should be expected. The boost controller therefore is not suspected as faulty. A couple of hoses blew off a few weeks back, but once put back in place everything seemed ok again. Having not driven anyone elses supra ive no reference as to what it should be performing like. It seems that although my car should be running at 450bhp im barely barely making much more than stock performance. Thoughts are that the 2nd turbo is misbehaving or something is sticking, cracked .....i don't know. The turbo's have only got 24000 miles on them, maybe im asking too much but i thought they would last a bit longer. Anyone else had anything similar happen, any answers would be appreciated. Definatley getting a boost guage now.

I used white spirit to remove the sticky glue left over from those door protectors. It was pretty strong glue but the W/S removed it quickly. Just rinse off really well. Had zero problems and everthing shines still.

I had mine done a few months back. Chris W supplied the bearing (i wont say how much in case the price has changed, but cheap) and leon fitted it for about £100. Have you asked the Toyota near you how much just for fitment. I know they wanted £175 just for the bearing which is why i went to Chris.

I love it when manuals say things like. "gently slide out the hub bearing". When its been 5 hours and you've only made it shift 5mm.

Arnt you going to need one of those BFO hub presses to get it out??

Ive had this for a year now and just assumed that Toyota couldn't have initially sold a car with noisy brakes and that the fault must lie somewhere. Ive been blaming the pads basically being that there EBC and not Toyota (EBC's are going now anyway) Maybe mine were extra noisy due to the upside down cross piece. This has definatley helped though because all the noises have gone, where even driving home today beforehand loads of clacking coming up to junctions and the like. I suppose it might not work for everyone, but worth a look if you have half an hour to spare.

I had some rear brake pads fitted a while back and assumed that the "clacking" sound when depressing the brake pedal at very low speeds was due to the pads being non toyota. They were fitted by a garage owned by a friend who's a good mechanic, but not a specialist. I did try searching the BBS but havn't found any clue as to why so sorry if i missed the post somwhere and am posting old info. Basically the little gold cross piece that goes between the pads was fitted upside down by the mechanic, who can't be held to blame as it fits in nicely either way. The large curved bit was at the bottom with the lugs holding down the pads rather than the other way round. I just reversed these 30 mins ago and went for a drive, no sounds at all from the pads. I remember a few posts recently refering to various noises coming from the pads, so if someone has replaced the pads for you this could be worth checking out, seems an easy mistake to make.

If you heard it about every 5 mins, it was some guy in a flip paint skyline. Badging showed it as a GTS, no plate J***PAN. He gave that car some hammering pretty much all day. Nice to meet some of you at last. Looking forward to the next meet already. Who managed to get out in less than an hour at the end?

Thats true Chris, I would probably have fairly bruised shoulders by now. He hit the alloy a good 10 centimetres away from the socket, so god knows what was going on there. Its not all bad, this removing of locking nuts has proved to be a nightmare, so im glad there off with just this small problem to deal with.

I just drove down to an independent garage today after getting loads of knock backs over the phone. Asked whether they could take the locking nuts off, which they could at £5 a wheel. Mechanic used the trusty "bang a smaller socket over the top" method and got the first 3 off no problems. On the fourth i heard a noise unlike "hammer hitting socket" to find "hammer hitting freshly refurbed alloy". He got the nut off, but after 2 weeks of beautiful wheel refurbing ive now got a small finger nail sized dent in the front passenger alloy. There wasn't really much i could do about it, as they not a major chain and theres no-one to complain to. So i had a little argument with the 4 gorilla mechanics which didn't seem to be going anywhere apart from a likely kicking on my head. So no charge for the job but ive now got to get the wheel seen to again.

I have done the search on this and tried some of the suggestions. 1.Local garages to me don't seem to have skeleton keys. 2.No-one seems to sell gaiter sockets anymore. 3.I can't weld a bar to the nut because i can't weld. Wasn't to keen on this idea as the wheels have just be refurbed. 4.No-one stocks the 18mm deep-set socket (star type) i need, i tried 5 large stores near me including a tool specialist and they all jump from 17 to 19mm in their ranges, the 19mm nearly grips then just slides round. Anyother suggestions, Im heading up to Billing on Sunday and if anyone has a gaitor socket this would be really handy.

Or is it because everytime you shag his misses while hes at the gym, she gives you a biscuit.

thanks Ian.

BTW I rang Leon today and according to the lad who works there hes not well at the moment and is unlikely to be in until Friday.

DOH! ive put the letters in the wrong boxes.

2 weeks ago i was engaged in some high lepton driving on my private circuit and all was well. However i recently noticed that turbo 2 went a bit intermittent and then nothing happened at all when i went WOT. I had a look on Sunday and found that pipe "A" in the photo had come loose and t-piece "B" had broken. The pipe was reattached and i found the nearest t piece at halfrauds. Nothing happened again on the test drive so i bought a larger diameter t piece today and the 2nd turbo has retuned. Could there have been any other damage whilst driving without those pipes in good order or have i just been lucky this time.

Ive spent about £2000 sorting out a few rear end noises in 6 months, this is not a fun area. The best thing to do is the cheap things first. 1. Remove everthing out of the rear of the car that could move. Tyre, jacks etc. Go for a drive. Try and alienate the speed and type of bump that shows the noise up. Whether it happens going round corners and if it happens from cold or after a few miles or only after high speed runs when things get really warmend up. Is it a knocking noise or a rotational grind. 2. If its still there after that see if the wheels have made contact with any part of the car. Check the exhaust is secure and free from too much movement. 3. if its knocking have a look under the shock absorbed rubbers to see if the bump stop has fallen to pieces and found its way down the S/A. i think Midlife had this happen to him. 4. if you have had any aftermarket springs or s/a work done some mechanics have occaisonally fitted the bump stop upside down which can also make a knocking sound. 5. If possible check the condition of the rubbers on the upper suspension arm and control arms. 6. If these yeild no results then it could be your shocks, but at least their pretty cheap and will only be about 3 hours labour for both sides. 7. if its more of a grind thats a different matter. Are your tyres wearing evenly BTW? And are you near any of the usual specialist CW/Leon etc A trip down one of these will save you quite abit of time.

What a nightmare. I hate it when you have to spend cash out for nothing in return, its not like the car will drive differently afterwards. The only one i know is the place next to Leons in Bletchley. They are Toyota/lexus and Jaguar approved aswell. they just painted Leons car so could be worth a call. Get the number from Leon on 01908 367100