AGB

Ahh yeah Stainless manifolds always do that. Have you thought about swapping/ cutting into your Decat pipe for a big Silencers box if there is room? Saves having to cut up the nurspec to quieten it down..

The raspyness Is what im trying to sort on mine.. At the moment I have a Nurspec with the bung in and it is horrible. I have a full 2.5" Stainless system with two silencers im going to butcher and fab up to fit the supra. Hopefully that will solve the raspyness.

Well don't take what I say as gospel either mate... Im just relaying my experience. I have read so many claims that the NA runs too rich lower down after removing the cats. If this is the case then the only way to reap benefits of a Decat is to have the car remapped or atleast adjust the fueling with an SAFC or something similar... Im not going to bother because im changing to FI when I can afford it.... Good luck mate!

Ive heard that the NA's run too rich after removing the cats. That would explain the bogging down lower in the rev range. Im fairly new to this engine so im probably not the best person to ask but one thing I will say, In all honesty, every NA supra I have driven with their cats in place have run better and felt faster and more responsive than mine which is de-catted. I have not experienced the "Smoother and quicker response" that every man and his dog claims to have acheived after ditching the cats... Good luck finding the issue though!

My car behaves the same with just one of the cats removed. I have to have the bung in because its just too loud otherwise (Nur spec exhaust). Im going to try a smaller 2.5" system with a couple of silencers to see if that makes any difference.

You gave me a flash but I was in the middle of an Epic YAWN and was too late to respond. Seen you a couple of times now

Cheers for the replies guys, Tomorrow i'll take some pics when it is light and report back

Coolant level is fine, Temp gage never goes above half way, heaters are nice and hot. From what I can see there are no coolant leaks from the Heater matrix pipes.

Don't worry dude, you'll be back in an awesome supra soon

Hi peeps, I have tried searching but most of the results haven't helped (read on and all will be revealed). I noticed since I got the car that there was some smoke and a smell of burning oil from the back of the enigne. I put it down to the leaking cam covers allowing oil to get baked by the manifold. I thoroughly cleaned the head and camcovers and replaced the gaskets with Genuine toyota ones. There are no leaks what so ever from the cam covers now and the head is as clean as a whistle but I am still getting smoke and a hot oil smell from the back of the engine. It looks like it could be steam but I can't see any coolant leaks or anything.. Does anyone know if this has been dealt with before? Can anyone shed any light? The car runs perfectly and it is only really noticable when you get out the car after a drive. Thanks for reading. Alan

Real shame you have to sell this dude This car made Lea Lea and I sell out cars and buy supras! It looks and Drives superb! Great example of an Aerotop!

Are a bunch of Utter LEGENDS! I took my car there Saturday morning to have my V160 leak fixed, and by monday afternoon it was done. And at a very very Good price! I normally do all my own work but I have lost the convenience of space now. AFR have far exceeded my expectations and Im one very happy customer. Thanks to Dude and everyone at AFR! Can't thank you guys enough! Al

Hi Paul Brown. As I stated in my post above my intention was not to spoil anyones reputation, but a question about your service was posted here and I gave our honest testimony. I fully understand how hard it is to find decent examples. I can understand if you were going through a premesis change and not wanting to draw unwanted attention to your stock etc. As I said above we were not too bothered about this and Your staff are also very polite. Our only gripe with your service was that the vehicle was not presented in the condition of the advert and it was certainly not reflected in the price. In terms of the rest of your stock you have found some fantastic examples. I guess this one was maybe a bad apple of a good bunch.

Im pretty sure I read somewhere that its UV that does this to the epoxy resin (its not Gelcoat). How about going with the suggestion of the body shop and try a laquer that is UV resistant.

This sucks but glad to see its being sorted for you, I have been in your situation a few times before with my CRX and S13. Can I ask which Breakdown company you're with?

well to put it in perspective, this was a prefacelift car in generally bad condition for 5k. I have seen quite a few Rust free, low mileage, complete and Generally mint facelift manual NA's for around a grand less. Yes they are getting old but no its not common to have to pay that much for a car with rust. In fairness there were a few very nice example there, but with price tags that are just too far fetched compared to what you can find if you just look at a few others on Pistonheads...

This post is in no way to pi55 anyone off deliberately degrade someones reputation. This is just an account our experience at Paul Brown. LeaLea and I went to Paul brown to look at a white NA Manual. It was advertised as "perfect condition" "Immaculate" etc etc. The asking price was £4995 it was stock apart from Some Rota Grids and a front lip and looked awesome in the pictures. The sills were bent and starting to rust from poor Jacking. The arches looked like they had been Rolled with a Crowbar and were rusting away. There was more Tipex than paint on the roof, boot hatch, bonnet, wings, front bumper . The front bumper and rear spoiler paint was all spidered and cracked and badly touched up. There were a couple of missing peices of interior trim... It was so so far from the description in the advert we just walked away. The young sales guy asked us what the problem was and we basically explained that we didn't expect to see rotting rear arches and Tipex all over it based on the wording of the advert. His reply to this was that its common to have rust on Supra's to which my reply was "Ummm not at 5K it isn't". But we certainly were not happy and it was a complete waste of our time. Needless to say we did find a completely mint NA manual with uk big brakes through out and lots of other desireable bits with less milage and at 1500 cheaper. I understand that this is just our experience based on just one of the many cars that are sold here. It could be that this is just one of those bad examples of a buying experience.

In all honesty I wouldn't even consider going FI on an NA without a re-map. For the amount of effort of going FI you may aswell spend a little extra on some injectors and ECU (even if its just a piggy back) and get the Fueling and timing mapped. At least for piece of mind and to acheive the builds full potential.

Funny that there was a Red Facelift with some dishy wheels for sale for 3200 on Pistonheads not so long ago. Low mileage and seemed mint in the pics... That was in your neck of the woods...

Tis my car now In all honesty its pot luck when buying a second hand car. Without being able to get it up on a ramp for a propper inspection or spend a day driving it around on all kinds of roads youre never going to know what youre buying into 100%. My Mrs Got lucky, She paid over a grand less than me for hers and its completely problem free. Ive not been so lucky My point is this guy has been honest with the things that need to be sorted out. I would add up the cost of rectifying all issues and then see if the car is worth the total cash it will end up costing you. From what you have said, the current issues are not cheap to rectify and will all need to be fixed before the next MOT.

No worries mate. One thing I forgot to mention. Before doing anything I would take the rings and bottom cups off the shock and smear copper grease on the shock threads. If you don't do this they are likely to seize after 6 months and you won't be able to adjust anything.

You are correct on the ride height, the bottom ring controls that. The two middle locking rings are to control the spring preload. Whenever I have set up new coilovers on my track cars I always start with about 5mm of spring preload. Basically, Loosen the middle rings so that the spring is under zero tension. Turn up the locking rings until they are finger tight against the spring so it doesn't move (Zero preload). From this point, wind up the top ring 5mm then lock it off with the second ring. At this point fit them to the car and adjust your ride height by loosening off the bottom ring and winding the shock up or down to suit. When you are happy with the ride height tighten up the bottom ring and youre done. So now you are running your set ride height with 5mm of spring preload. This is a good place to start. From then on you just need to balance the dampening adjustment in conjunction with the spring preload to suit the car/ driving application. HTH Alan

After a bit of research into this myself I would say the Whiffbitz kit has the best quality manifold out there... This is a part you shouldn't really scrimp on because its hard enough to squeaze a tubrbo in as it is. The Whiffbitz kit appears to have good clearance due to the manifold design. The one thing I would say however is that the Borg warner turbo in their kit seems a tad on the large side for a small power increase. You will probably benefit from a Garret 3071 instead for a smaller power hike but with throttle response and less lag.

Ok thats not too far from me. Can I book it in then please? When is the best time to bring it down? cheers, Alan.

No the new seal was pressed in over the top. I have no space to work on the car anymore so I would have to drop the car off. Where abouts are you?