AGB

The kill switch Idea is very easy. There is a wire that signals the Igniter to fire the coil. Splice a switch into that and you will have ignition kill and the beauty of it is there is another wire that tells the ecu not to open the injectors in the event of failed ignition. This way you get ignition and fuel cut with one switch This is for an NA... Not sure if a TT has a similar setup or not but if you find the wiring diagram for the ign then it should be simple to work out In all honesty though, if own a supra you should really own and alarm and immobiliser...

Thanks for the reply Chris. I have no clue how to design an ignition cut using oil pressure switch . I was hoping it would be as easy as turning the key and cranking for five or six seconds and then throw a switch to activate the fuel pump so the engine can fire with sufficient oil pressure present. I'll keep researching. cheers, Alan.

Hi Peeps, My oil pump kicks out healthy oil pressure when the car is running but I notice it takes a second or two before it builds up once the car starts. I would like the ability to start (crank) the engine with the fuel pump off to give the engine a chance to build up some oil pressure before it fires. I would like to wire in a switch to the current fuel system. I don't really want to buy a heavey duty high current switch and tap into the main pump power feeds but I was wondering if the lower current FPC signal wire for the Fuel pump ECU would do the trick? If FPC wire is switched "off" would the fuel pump ECU not send voltage to the fuel pump? Or will this not work? I completely realise that this is masking the issue of low oil pressure on startup, but this will be a temporary measure till I can afford to pull the engine and replace pump and check bearings and all other internals. Thanks for reading.

I would be interested if the payment deadline isn't before 31st March . As above, is this for Front and rear discs? Any offers with pads?

Have you tested the compression yet?

Well the fluid heats up as the dampers compress and decompress. If the fluid gets too hot it will change the dampening force. It is one reason why some shocks have external reservoirs. The more fluid in the damper the less the fluid heats up which helps keep a consistent dampening force. I have never heard of any issues with overheating because of covers though... *EDIT* I referred to fluid but I guess its the same principle for gas shocks?

To be honest im still not 100% finished setting them up yet. So far I have 8mm spring preload back and 5mm front, the rear dampers have 4 clicks harder from the factory middle setting on the back and the front I haven't touched yet. The back needs hardening up a bit more as its slightly under dampened for the spring preload (feels a bit bouncy on rebound). The front seems ok, I need to get some miles and different types of driving on them still but so far so good as far as road driving goes...

Ignore my post

I didn't realise he was spraying a lacquer over a polyester base? I thought the question was weather to use a Celly basecoat and a lacquer or a straight gloss finish with no lacquer on a bare kit? Sorry I should have been more specific on the type of paint. I meant was 2k Acrylic gloss paint is very hard and tough to cut and polish compared to Cellulose based paints. But acrylic was never mentioned so I guess it is irrelevant.

Are you spraying it yourself? If you have a propper dust free environment, decent compressor and spray gun with a propper respitory mask and skill Use 2k Gloss. It is considered by many to be a far better, longer lasting harder wearing system for cars. The only problem is unless you get it pretty much perfect first time then you're in trouble. If you have to wet and dry out any imperfections you will have trouble cutting and polishing it up because it doesn't cut very well. Cellulose based paints are far more forgiving for the DIY less experienced painter. It can be cut easily and buffs up very well in comparison to 2k Gloss because it is "softer". The only downside to this is that it requires more care to keep its shine and lustre.

I can't say yes or no to the heat question, but I do know that it never caused any issues on my S13. I also have a quad and that has really thick and heavey shock covers and I imagine the shocks are far more active on that than a car and they are fine. It may seem a bit silly and unnecessary to some but if it helps prevent seized spring platforms, perished seals and heavey corrosion then why not?

Ahh ok, was the Distributor cap wet after the leak? If it has only been doing it since the leak then i'd see about trying another set of leads... If the leak was so bad that the lead/plug ends were immersed then the leads could still be damp inside which could have a bad effect...

I can't comment on the resistance of the leads but from working on alot of honda's and MR2's with missfires it has usually been the ignitor/ ignition coil that caused it. I'm guessing you have fitted a 4runner cap to gain some clearance for your intake pipe?, I would recommend getting a new rotor arm for good measure and go from there..

I have had my car for four months now and the HKS HyperD coilovers have died When I removed them they were a complete mess, Spring platforms were rusted together, the shock boots were flaking away allowing grit and crud in to damage the shock seals etc etc I Have now bought a new set of BC's after owning a similar set on my S13 and being happy with their design and build quality. I have worked on so many peoples cars with badly corroded and siezed coilovers I thought I'd share some methods that have always kept my Coilovers working like the day I fitted them. Here are the Rears, https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/389561_10150536200385701_519105700_11386640_1102163270_n.jpg First job is to strip them down to reveal all the shock body threads https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/374959_10150536200905701_519105700_11386642_1878557892_n.jpg Then get some copper grease and a clean rag, You don't need to use loads, just enough to lightly coat all the threads. When you start to re-assemble the platforms excess grease will build up as you screw them on so you can just wipe that away with another rag. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/381542_10150536201480701_519105700_11386645_1538290437_n.jpg Once that is done, re-assemble them and they are ready to fit to the car. Once they are on the car I like to set the spring preload first followed by the ride height and then the dampening. To set the spring preload wind up the top platform until the spring has no uncompressed free play on the shock (Zero preload). Wind up the second platform to meet the top one. At this point get the large C spanner and start to wind up the top platform until it is at least 5mm above the second platform (add 5mm preload) and then wind up the second platform and tighten it up against the first with both C spanners to lock them together. This picture shows the amount of preload added to the spring (distance between the top two platforms) I ended up settleing for 8mm preload before I wound up the second platform to "lock them off" https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/384898_10150536202175701_519105700_11386648_827932469_n.jpg At this point set the ride height fairly close to how they came from the factory, put the wheels on and roll the car back and forward a few feet to let the geometry settle. Take a measuring tape and measure from the arch to the top of the rim and work out how much adjustment is needed to meet the desired ride height front and back. With the car jacked back up and the wheels off, take a measuring tape and measure the distance between the top mount of the shock and the top of the cup that the shock sits in and add or subtract the desired adjustment figure you measured earlier. To raise or lower the ride height wind up the bottom platform so it is out of the way and then turn the whole shock clockwise or anti clockwise to raise or lower the shock. Keep measuring the distance between the top mount and the top of the shock cup and adjust until it is right. Once you are finished, wind the bottom platform back down tight to the shock cup. Once you are happy with the ride height take the car for a drive and adjust your damper settings to suit your requirements. If you can't get it to feel right with the damper adjustments then try adding or subtracting spring preload until you find what you are looking for and adjust the dampers again. This is a trial and error process that takes a whle but it is necessary in order to get the car handling how you want it. The shocks should look like this when you are finished, make sure all platforms are locked tight and all bolts are torqued up propperly. https://fbcdn-photos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/389977_10150538616055701_519105700_11398767_1544953045_a.jpg Once everything is all fine and you're happy with the setup, it is a good idea to take some steps to keep out all the road crud, water and salt they get bombarded with for years. You can buy shock covers but they aren't cheap and it is very easy to make some. I was lucky enough to have an old tent that I don't use anymore. I cut squares of the outer shell enough to wrap around the shocks twice. I then folded and stapled channels for some cable ties which will be responsible for securing the covers. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/408276_10150536202685701_519105700_11386650_1176000366_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s320x320/385027_10150536295710701_519105700_11387110_853811527_n.jpg Wrap the oposite end round first leaving the end with the cable ties on the outside, and then zip them up nice and tight and clip the excess off. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/397874_10150538603575701_519105700_11398730_2091446039_n.jpg That should keep them nice for years. Here is a pic of the coilovers that came off my S13 after two years. They were a bit dusty but a wipe down with a damp cloth left them looking like new so it really works https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/301380_10150379342445701_519105700_10632088_594767652_n.jpg

I took my car in to try and fix my recurring Transmission fluid leak. Simon did a great job of stripping the box, inspecting everything and replacing all Seals and fitting a new clutch. While it was there he also fitted a new drop link that was dead and gave the car a clean He also Diagnosed my knocking suspension and confirmed that my HKS Coilovers are dead so they are now calling me back with options and prices. I had phonecalls every step of the way keeping me well informed of the work being carried out an I am more than happy with the service! I Highly recommend these guys for any level of work!

Take both Cats out and then decide

I have an Na with TT nurspec cat back. With the First cat removed it was VERY loud, even with the Bung It was loud. It is a nice sound though! When you give it a boot it sounds like a very well tuned brutally quick car... Then people look round to see the speed you are actually doing and it becomes very embarrassing very quickly.. EDIT: Without the Cats and bung it is VERY raspy especialy when cold!

If I had to choose between the two it would come down to Road vs Track for me.. I would prefer the supra on the road but If I intended to do alot of trackdays It would be an S2k. I've driven and tweaked a couple for road and track now and I really can't fault the balance of a well setup S2k. I have driven some shoddy S2k's that were a bit unsure of themselves and that has always been due to incorrect tyres and/or bad alignment. Once they are propperly Geo'd with good tyres and healthy brakes not many cars "out of the box" can touch them on a track... Its a difficult call.

It's so nice to see attention to detail in builds like this! Hats off to you! Watching this very closely for inspiration

The Turbo wouldn't get red hot though. Sure it would get hot but not as hot as it would take to ignite petrol any easier than a normal exhaust would..

Yeah Dude showed me the 206 as well, I was like WTF?!? but It does make sense in a lot of ways. The only complicated bit about the system is probably the oil delivery and return (need to use a remote pump). But then Dude mentioned that you can get oilless Turbo's.... There are loads of video's on Youtube with "rear" or "remote" mounted turbo systems... Pretty funky really

I can't see why you would need any more than a 2.5" on the NA TBH

No I'm making my own. Wont be for another week or two due to other commitments. I think going from 3" down to 2.5" and having two silencers in addition to the rear box will make quite a difference!

Im going to be trying a custom 2.5" twin silencer exhaust to see if that makes any difference. I shall report back with my findings when I get round to doing it.

The best way to quieten down the raspyness is to fit a nice big turbo