Florin

Did icv clean, and it feels stronger but still dies after I push it hard and rpm dips down/dies. And starts right back up. Thought that maybe my mbcd is not set high enough but the things is im only hitting 15 at most on the gauge..... Also Im havingf trouble finding out where the speed sensor is, ( since its throwing the code) vss circut....A picture would be great!!! Thanks again guys

Did icv clean, and it feels stronger but still dies after I push it hard and rpm dips down/dies. And starts right back up. Thought that maybe my mbcd is not set high enough but the things is im only hitting 15 at most on the gauge..... Also Im havingf trouble finding out where the speed sensor is, ( since its throwing the code) vss circut....A picture would be great!!! Thanks again guys.

Thats the kind of posts I love. If I ever do anything worth noting I will def take some pics to help some other poor soul out. Thanks mellonman. Im gonna try that over the weekend its worth a shot just a cpl bucks for the carb cleaner if nothing else Ill know that the icv is clean

Where is it and how sure are you not that im questioning your advice just want to know if thats a hunch or.... I dont have the $$$ to just replace parts till the problem is fixed:) thats why im one here. In know that a lot of the guys that know their stuff prob get annoyed with guys like me. But ive been going blind and crazy reading up on the mkiv. Diff ppl say diff things and dont find very many "great threads" I mean they are all good to read but most dont have a bottom line "this want you have to do" type. I just downloaded 3000 pages worth of diagrams and pictures how to type stuff, but I cant read all of it in any shortish amount of time. I hope no body takes offence to this. But I thought thats what the site was for. I try! not to ask stupid questions and for the most part I think I havent. In the end me or some other guy who are I guess like the heading says newbies and I just cant spend 4,5 hours every night going tru old post or threads. Thats way I just tru a question out there after tryin to read up on my own but really Im getting to the point that Im thinking about selling the car just coz I cant really find the info I need and Im sure as hell not gonna pay some guy a grand for 2 hrs worth of switching some vacuum lines around and saying here ya go I fixed your car.... For the ones that have chimed in on my posts/threads ie questions lol I thank you very very much and If we didnt live so far away I take you guys all out for a round.

Yea, the speed sensor is the only code it trows...

If I shift to 3rd quik then its fine it keeps right on going as long as its in gear its fine out of gear after pushing it a bit the rpm goes to 200 and dies . Not sure what else to put as far as info. Yes I did, changed the crankshaft gear and wheel trigger and new belt since then its been good hasnt jumped and idles great.

94 tt 6speed aftermarket intercooler radiator exhaust, mbc and bcd...2ed gear push it to 15psi and if i put it in neutral it dies???? plus very bad mpg please advice

Im looking for one or two rather..... But I was thinking even if it could be worse then I see it ( while running) the thing is that it ran great for a 3 days after I got it out from the shop. So how can it run good with it bent and then not.... You cant hardly see it unless your a really staring at it close and if the other wasnt next to it you could not tell the diff.....

On of the cam gears was slightly bent from a fender bender... nothing serious

I got the trigger on its way from toyota. gonna change it and see what happens, if thats not it then im gonna change the crank sensor. Not sure how the belt could have done that to either.? It just jumped teeth not come off/loose

Its a 2jz-gte with a v160 tranny. The idle has been giving me a hard time staying between 400 to 700. Had gotton it from the shop and drove it for three days at 15 psi and it was wonderfull )). On the 4th day the belt skipped 5 teeth at the cams. Took the belt off ( which was 10 days old) and but a brand new tensinor on it and sicne then its been running very very rich to the tune of 8 mpg. Took it back to the shop ( guy charges 70$ an hr) hes like look if you leave it hear I would start with changing the spark plugs, cleaning the maf sensor and doing a compression check " but you can do that yourself without paying me. ( I DO know a lot about cars) just never have dealt with a car that was turbo charged let alone a supra. So I did what he told me got the spark plugs he told me gapped them and got the "maf sensor cleaner and sprayed let it dry and blew it out with "dry" shop air. Still have the same problem. Tru the scanner on it for the hell of it wich brought up "dtc 13 speed sensor (rpm) over a 1000" . Troublshooting and found out possiable couses. " crank sensor, crank trigger wheel, belt loose or jumped. And thats where I am now. Im 99% sure the belt is where it needs to be , did the whole tdc thing whit the cams, number 1 piston and crank. So Im thinking of putting on a used crank sensor and seeing what happens. If that doesnt change anything then put mine back on and trying another trigger if that doesnt change anything then Ill have to start thinking about changing the maf sensor with a new one . Thats about where things stand. Aslo beside the low idle bad mpg, in 3d 4th 5th at low rpm 1800ish it wants to stall/backfire/die...

Its a 2jz-gte with a v160 tranny. The idle has been giving me a hard time staying between 400 to 700. Had gotton it from the shop and drove it for three days at 15 psi and it was wonderfull )). On the 4th day the belt skipped 5 teeth at the cams. Took the belt off ( which was 10 days old) and but a brand new tensinor on it and sicne then its been running very very rich to the tune of 8 mpg. Took it back to the shop ( guy charges 70$ an hr) hes like look if you leave it hear I would start with changing the spark plugs, cleaning the maf sensor and doing a compression check " but you can do that yourself without paying me. ( I DO know a lot about cars) just never have dealt with a car that was turbo charged let alone a supra. So I did what he told me got the spark plugs he told me gapped them and got the "maf sensor cleaner and sprayed let it dry and blew it out with "dry" shop air. Still have the same problem. Tru the scanner on it for the hell of it wich brought up dtc 13. Troublshooting and found out possiable couses. " crank sensor, crank trigger wheel, belt loose or jumped. And thats where I am now. Im 99% sure the belt is where it needs to be , did the whole tdc thing whit the cams, number 1 piston and crank. So Im thinking of putting on a used crank sensor and seeing what happens. If that doesnt change anything then put mine back on and trying another trigger if that doesnt change anything then Ill have to start thinking about changing the maf sensor with a new one ( for the fuel/air ratio) and new timing belt. Thats about where things stand. Aslo beside the low idle bad mpg, in 3d 4th 5th at low rpm 1800ish it wants to stall/backfire/die...

Were is that (lambda sensor)? thanks

Sure that would be good to know. I think im narrowing it down to a slightly bent cam gear....( The car had been in a wreck before I bought it).

OK thanks. would have figured that much. Just thought since you mentioned it you might or someone else on here might already know. Again thank you to everyone for the advice so far....

Could the fcd or hoses its conected to make the engine run rich and wrong,,,,idle/revs??????

Thanks will do . but afterwards????....ie I dont know what the number of teeth needs to be ?

This sounds just like a problem Ive got, can you pleeeasseee tell me where the hose is and best way to go about it. Also I have a man fcd not sure if thats what you had/have.... but am wondering if the same problem could happen with a non electric on....

It wants to stall in 3d- 4th -5th when its between 1500 and 2200 rpm I know thats when right around where the turbos kick in. so you take off in first with any issues (not stepping on it ) just like you were driving a corolla the go to second and third now you step on it and it wants to stall but after you pass 2500 its fine... same thing with 4th 5th

Also I have another question. If the car is running rich to the point where you can smell fuel and yet it wants to stall.... what would be somethings to check first????

It appears that on the exhaust side the belt is tighter then on the intake side, is that also correct ?? But either way how can one adjust wich side gets tighter ..

All this tensioner talk could VERY well be my problem!!! But the NEW tensioner came with a pin in it. So I just bolted it on put the belt on the pulled the pin,,,,Correct or no??? Will try to post some pics, but i think last time i tried to put some of the car it didnt work to well I might dont be doing it right the (uploading)....

Not really sure what you mean. I dont have a manual.....

Thats what I thought also. The trnsioner I got from the dealer. The belt from auto parts store. The cams are stock. Did not replace any pullys. not sure if the first time it was done right but am sure the second time it was. tdc etc....