95supra

also my flywheel which is 14.5 lbs is quite. there is a metal vibrating sound when going up a hill or when in gear at low RPM, besides that when engaging and at idle you can't hear a thing. I have heard videos of 13lb flywheels when being engaged and at idle they are very loud, should mine be loud? I don't care if it is or not just want to make sure something isn't wrong.

I have a street full face disc setup by RPS which I bought from MVP motorsports. Its rated for about 525/torque. I also purchased a new Fidanza 14.5lb flywheel. I already put about 250km on the clutch city driving and a little bit of highway. I am not riding the clutch but just release and go, and not shifting hard... I'm just driving "normal". When in gear I did acclerate hard many times up to 160km. What kind of driving is recommended? I have been told different things so I don't know what to believe. I know that launches and stuff shouldn't be done but I'd like to drive my car you know... just wanted to break the clutch in properly first. cheers

I am the third owner of the car. 1st owner did the swap, 2nd owner didn't know anything about cars, now I am left with practically no information. All I know is what I'm able to find out myself. The car has a very short first gear.

problem with wiring room? with my harness? I know for a fact that it is reading twice as much. From my house to work its 20km in my old Supra, now it shows about 40km on ODO. Also the speedo reads lower than real life speed like I've specified. If there is a problem with my wiring loom I guess I'll need to take it to a professional.

by the way the reason I want a new differential is because my ODO is reading the mileage twice as quick. Also my speedo is very wrong, I can be doing like 80-100km and it will show 60km.

both are j-spec yes. my 1995 sz has the 2jz-gte v160 6-speed swap. it has the original na 5-speed differential my mate has 1996.7 sz-r and wanted to steal his diff!

I have a 1995 SZ with 2JZ-GTE V160 6-speed swap. Stock rear end and differential. I am wondering if a 1996.7+ facelift non-turbo SZ-R with the 6-speed transmission has the same differential 3.26 gearing differential as the RZ Supra's? My friend has the SZ-R which he just got. He's going to be using it as a show car. I talked about it and would be willing to trade differentials. So my questions are. Assuming the 6-speed SZ-R has the same 3.26 gearing differential, can I just bolt that onto my car? and bolt my 5-speed N/A diff on his SZ-R?

I'm getting my clutch done and need to get some oil. what grade of brake fluid is needed? thanks

So when the tranny is dropped pretty much the oil that should be changed is the Clutch Fluid ? You can access all the other fluids like transmission fluid anytime or no?

by the way when the oil fluides get changed during the tranny job will it have to be synthetic oil?

I need a new clutch and fly wheel. I am about to buy an ACT full face clutch kit. Also looking at either a 13 or 19lb fly wheel. Since the OEM fly wheel is like 30+ pounds, will it be a better thing to have the light weight fly wheel for performace? no the rattling sound doesn't bother me btw ... thanks

You know what.................. I think my clutch is fuked. I was rolling in traffic, I forgot what gear I was in this vid (either 4 or 5). I will try accelerating but my engine will rev up and I JUST WONT GO!!!!! it happens in most gears. When the clutch is cold for the first 15 minutes of driving it is rather smooth. For longer periods its horrible. Also when starting in grears 1 and 2 it grabs very very slow. I can't even keep up with traffic till I get into a higher gear. Sometimes when I am not in gear or engaging the clutch there will be some chatter as well... I'm hoping my clutch is fine just maybe something smaller. here is a vid, this is what a slipping clutch looks like? and no I was not revving this is my simply stepping on the gas trying to get the car to go. [video=youtube;AEar4-no2hg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEar4-no2hg BTW, this was origianlly a n/a 5-spd. Converted to 2JZ-GTE V160 6-speed. Has n/a differential so the speedo is a bit off. I was going about 60 km or so not 30 lol

HT leads? what exactly is that

I have a twin disc clutch masters clutch setup. When I release the clutch it looks like the clutch does all the work. It will be engaged but the starts are always very very slow and shitty. I can't even gun it because the clutch is still hooking on. I know a good mechanic and he told me it could be the release throw out bearing or something... he has heard a lot of twin disc lutches and this one was different or something.

Would be great if you could could read and help me out! thanks in advance. Ok so here is the deal. I bought my Supra a few weeks ago. Whenenver I hit 0.5 bar my car stuttered a lot and shaked... basically it was misfiring. So I changed the coil packs and spark plugs, the problem was gone. The car is still very sluggish though. Sometimes I will try to excelerate and my RPM will jump from like 3000 to 4000-6000 and the car just won't go. Also today why I was driving on the highway this happened a few times but the car randomly started shaking. It sounded like it was choking and when I stepped on the gas it had no response at all. It was just BUB BUB BUB BUB for 5-10 secs and it went away. My performance upgrades are as follows: greddy twin intake blitz nur spec r catback exhaust mishimoto radiator thick blitz intercooler with 3" poping vent to atmosphere wastegate etc.. no boost controller or not piggybacks, but have boost gauge, oil temp, engine pressue I think as well (total of 3). so I have an exhaust with full stock cat. From the description I give does it sound like I need to upgrade my fuel pump or what exactly is happening? is my boost spiking or am I hitting fuel cut? the car drives much better with the new coils and plugs but I want it performing as it should! I would like to get a downpipe but I don't want to till I get this problem solved. this is a 1995 jdm tt6.

Its black right now. Full top secret kit (bumper, sides, diffuser, mirrors, spoiler). Just the regular kit non-widebody. Half of the car needs some paint work so instead of doing that I'm gonna repaint it. Its black right now. It looks great but I'm not a fan of black really. Bad color at night and hard to maintain. I'm thinking of something like super white, pearl white, daytona 350z blue.. or maybe even midnight purple! what do you guys think.

anyone?

looking for some help with this, I have a 95 supra... has the stock 95 headlights and upgraded 98 turn signals already. Now to complete the facelift conversion I have a set of 98 headlights ready to go in. the fog light wiring on the current headlight has a green wire running from it which connects to the turn signal light. Not the actual turn signal just the light beside it. Looks like it needs to be cut so I can remove the current headlight since the green wire is in the way... the plug in the car seems to be a bit different as well, this is for the fog lights on the side. Not exactly sure just from the looks of it. The one on the 98 headlights I have have a different connection. So basically what I am looking for is to install these headlights and have everything in working order. Anyone know what I should do? cheers this single green wire is the one that is connected to the fog lamp connector thingy... http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/4241/img0811wa.jpg http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/622/img0812d.jpg 98 headlight, the fog lamp connector looks a bit different. http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/4717/img0814px.jpg

Yeah my coil packs and connectors were bad. I ordered some online and already have NGK plugs ready to go. I think this should be the issue. by the way my engine is extremly hot. The temp on the dash is in the middle when hot, and my oil temp is around 110 when hot... also my turbo timer shows the turbo gets up to 63 max. Around 50c on average when hot. I have to let it sit for 30 minutes before I can actually do anything. Probably 1 hour before it starts to cool down. I barely nicked my radiator with my finder and got a bad burn. The engine idles at 1,400 - 1,500 on average when hot. Is that normal? the car is BPU only.

will get that done tomorrow thanks

misfiring while on boost, correct. It will be boosting just won't go over 0.5 bar like you see in the video above. if it wasn't midfiring I should of gone much higher into boost but I'm basically cut off.

as long as its cheap.. I have a lot of other crap that needs to be done. here is a video of the stutter I am talking about. Listen closely when it reaches 0.5 bar at 0:17... drdrdrdrdrdrdrdrdrdrdr. ignore the first attempt I shifted too soon. [video=youtube;o6vqVeWVV-0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6vqVeWVV-0

I cannot launch my car or drive it hard because the turbo stutters a lot when it reaches 0.5 bar of boost. I found this thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35931-Misfire-under-boost-(plus-misfire-diagnosis) I went to a local performance shop that has a lot of experience with Supra's. They told me it most likely it the spark plugs. Do you guys think this should be the issue from the description I give? I'm getting them changed tomorrow.

I was told it could be the the alternator by a couple people. So that could be it have to get it checked out. btw the engine seems to be very hot always when I open the hood. The temperature on my dash is in the middle... engine revs at like 1.5k as well.

Aside the boost issue I had some other larger problems. This is only the 2nd day I am driving the car after the 10 week shipping process. I'll try and explain what went wrong today. Basically today alone I have drove approx total time 2 1/2 - 3 hours. I had my car parked... started it up and was driving for about 10-15 minutes in heavy traffic. Then suddenly I get the warning light on my dashboard comeup. Also the battery icon lights up.. and another one beside it to the right (looked like something to do with over heating). Anyways when this happened my sterio shut off, all my interior lights dimmed and my headlights dimmed as well. I pulled over in the parking lot and turned my car off due to this issue. I tried starting it back up and battery was dead. I had my friends roll by car forward while I was in 2nd gear and clutch engaged. I released the clutch and it fired right up (just a trick if battery dies). At this point the car is idelling very high (about 3000 - 3500). I went into neutral, reverse, first gear... and the RPM did not drop. I turned it off tried everything again and it was still like that. I drove out on the road and in 2nd gear the engine was revving very high (you could just hear by it)... but the RPM showed zero. So I had enough and just parked the car and got it towed home. Also my oil temp was twitching back and forth strangly when I turned the egnition on and off with the key. I'll be getting it checked out Monday. I'm hoping its just a shit battery and I need a new one or with the strange revving issue just something with the ECU? and sorry for bad grammer/spelling if it is, didn't check it over -_-