berg

This will be listed everywhere else tonight

R154 gearbox conversion I pieced this together last year, very rare gearbox now and very rarely pop up for sale, this box is the later type from a JZX100 Chaser so has the remote shifter cradle, electronic speedo etc so no modifications are needed, this will bolt straight on unlike the old mk3 supra boxes Selling as a full manual conversion including the following R154 gearbox (complete with shift cradle, gear knob, crossmember & mount, all sensors) 1JZ flywheel SPEC Stage 3+ clutch kit (only done 2k miles) Slave cylinder & clutch fork HEL braided clutch line Clutch master cylinder and reservoir Clutch and brake pedals Custom propshaft Manual dash panel Manual RPM gauge piece (fits over your original rpm needle) All nuts bolts etc The shifter cradle has solid bushings installed which emits slight noise into the cabin, but stock w58 bushings fit the cradle and can be bought still This is a complete manual conversion ready to bolt straight on and is proven to hold single power perfectly, Doesnt have a manual tunnel skin but these are still available from toyota The rear end of the propshaft uses an n/a supra flange, designed to fit the diff flange on the A01 diffs, it does however still fit the A02 range just takes a bit of fettling to get the rubber donut onto the prop, but i can leave this on the prop if using one as i currently use an A02B diff myself A02B diff not included but can be available seperately if needed as its very well matched to this gearbox Price is £3500 SOLD Will upload pics once its removed if needed Will be available in around 2 weeks time

It depends how much you plough into it, of course spend £40k on it and its gonna be worth more in parts than it is to sell There are still big spec cars that sell for good money (a98pmalcolm for example) Mine can join the single breaking club soon, but one less on the road means a bit rarer and a price increase for yours

I have a HKS one also, removed from my car back when i bought it Has the harness too

Any ideas what an n/a auto rolling shell would be worth? Im just wondering if theres more value selling all the subframes/arms & panels etc seperately than selling a rolling shell

Will PM you Greg

bump

4” velocity stack dipped in carbon Fits any turbo using a 4” silicone joiner Looks awesome against other parts and is a great match £50 delivered SOLD

From what i read on Bridge to Gantry page the only real injury was the guy in the TT who went side on into the other car towards the end Everyone else escaped without injury apparently

The studs have a star shape on the end which a star socket will fit They come out fairly easily normally Not sure on part number but whifbitz have them on their site

Halfords tools are great, i have the 200 piece set and havent broken any yet, the hex bit even got the diff bolts out lol The tool chest sets are equally as good though, i have a set in black, very sturdy and a bargain really

From what ive read the tubes are pressed in and are a non replaceable part

So I got a phone call from my mum yesterday who said her engine light came on and car suddenly had no power and was misfiring badly So I got the car recovered back to her house and decided to have a look Noticed straight away one side of a coil was bent up so I undone the bolt and the top of the coil was no longer connected to the rest Rocker cover was burnt on top from the sparking where coil was broken I guess The rest of the coil was completely melted into the spark plug, after 2 hours of removing we got to see the spark plug which literally looks like a piece of charcoal and is crooked and raised out of the threads so I can’t get a socket on it to remove The only thing I can think of is the spark plug has backed out and serious heat from the combustion chamber has melted everything Any other ideas? Here’s the coil after removal Here’s what I had to remove, can see how black the tube is in the head from the heat And this what the spark plug looks like inside the tube, I’m yet to try and remove this The tip is completely off and wedged down the side, spark plug is also against the tube so I can’t move it or get a socket on it Some serious destruction right here [emoji23] Just hoping the bottom of the plug is intact and hasn’t broken off

Anyone able to help on which size bushes i need for the 2 arms in question below on the diagram? From the thread posted by Greg above it seems the larger one for the trailing arm bush but not sure 100% Dont want to end up buying twice lol Rear trailing arm front bush 211627 on diagram (34mm) OR 211694 (46mm) Rear track control arm outer bush 211631 (39mm) 211632 (40.5mm)

As above Bought from Driftworks last year and was on the car for a few weeks before going back to a stock wheel Fits pretty much all steering wheels £35 delivered to uk

I built mine myself, the only thing ive paid someone to do is the tuning and mapping etc thats it Cheap? not a chance But cheaper than alot of others? yes because ive put the blood sweat and tears into it, not someone else All in my single build on its own owes me around £9k i would say, thats using all brand new branded top notch parts and £0 labour other than tuning To put into perspective how much the supporting parts cost, my complete bolt on turbo kit cost me £2,500 landed from the states, the other £6.5k is the rest of the parts needed to go with it like fuel system, ecu and sensors, mapping etc which are the parts people forget about Granted theres things ive done which are arent strictly needed if your on a budget like cams, toucan display and all the added extras i had done with the mapping etc But you have to decide what you want, either a cheap low budget build where you will have to skimp on parts/spec somewhere, or like i did and create a spec list of exactly what you want and just go for it IMO cheap WILL lead to reliabilty issues somewhere along the lines even if its just down to how long the parts will last Simple things like sensors for the ecus, adding them all comes to quite a wedge of cash, alot of people will skimp on them as they arent strictly needed, but when something happens you will wish you spent the extra few hundred on a sensor that your ecu could have used to saved your engine.

Thanks, i thought that was the way i just happened to see the photo above from the lexus forum which made me wonder Although there isnt very much surface around the holes at all so even the smallest of beads i suspect will cause it to ooze into the diff once torqued down But thats how the manual says to do it so thats what ill do

Just wondering what the correct way to apply the sealant the diff cover is as I can’t access the TRSM app on IOS11 The old red stuff looks like it was spread on rather than a bead Just don’t want to end up with a leak once refitted Any ideas? I saw this photo online, is this how it should be?

There are no real ongoing costs unless you are constantly upgrading/changing things Or if you cheap out on the initial cost then you may have ongoing cost to put things right The single turbo kit itself is only a small part of the package, its everything else that gets forgotten about which can easily add up to the same price if not more than what the turbo kit itself cost

Still got the above

Hi Greg Cheers for the link if its just strength thats different then thats fine as the poly bushes will fit both size wise Guess ill just need to work out the size i need for the rear trailing arms and track control arms as looking on that thread you linked it seems thats the size difference on the facelift vs pre-facelift My setup is stock at the moment, front lower arms were changed in 2013 according to paperwork so ball joints should be good, ball joints on all the others seem good thats why im gonna go for the poly bushes instead ofg spending thousands on stock parts

Is there any difference in the size of the bushes on the facelift vs pre-facelift front suspension arms? Im in the process of buying a full poly bush kit from strongflex but they list it for all supras 93-02 and no mention of difference up front The only options other than the usual arb and rack bushes are below Rear trailing arm front bush 34mm Rear trailing arm front bush 46mm And Rear track control arm outer bush 39mm Rear track control arm outer bush 40,5mm Anyone know which of the above is the correct size? And whether there are differences on the size of the fronts on the facelifts?

Well dropped the diff out this morning Thankfully no cracks First thing I noticed was the oil has been coming straight out of the breather, there was no cover on the top of it either just a open hole Is there meant to be a cover or seal on the top to stop fluid coming out of it?? Have took the cover off the diff and fully drained it and no signs of any other small parts in there that could have fallen off it Any ideas how these breathers work?

There’s an adon available for Firefox users too which works fine Just type “photobucket embed fix” on the adon page