Hellstrom

Anyone knows? I intend to use it for the turbosystem hence why it need to be 100% Air tight

Is an exhaust butterfly valve air tight when closed? Or does it leak a tiny bit.

ive got a few questions. 1, Why dont you fabricate a proper manifold? (ive seen many of your manifolds and they are a work of art iam sure it would be No problem for you to make one) 2, Wont the porting of the stock manifold make it esier to crack? i meen the manifold is soo restictive you would need to port it alot to get good gains. 3, did you messure exhaust backpresure during the dyno pulls? 4, Any EGT logs from the dynoruns Before detonation? my thoughts are that if somone is willing to put the Money down to buy this set of turbos and obviously do the other modification that needs to be done they would just put the extra cash in for a proper manifold. if you could get rid of the skyhigh egt iam sure you could add more boost to overcome some of the restriction in the pressure lines. to get past that magical 500bhp. it would be awsome and what a driving machine! Good luck!

he did indeed sell up. but bought a lambo superleggra instead

its verry easy to look at a random youtube video and Watch people drive hard in traffic etc. but when somthing goes wrong and it actually ends up on the intenet its so easy to start pointing fingers. i guess you dont enjoy looking at other videos of cars "bending the rules" on public roads

If one really wanted to invest in making the "ULTIMATE" Hybrid turbo installation there is actually alot of work and indeed alot of Money to be put down. needed to modify pleny of things on the exhaust side to remove the restrictions that adds to heat and backpressure. then for taking out more Power one would need to rewamp the pressure system that sits ontop of the turbos afair bit as you will loose lots of flow due to restricted pipes thats the main reson people buy a small single. less parts, less things to break simple install (bye bye 200meter of vacum hoose and lines and what not) however that said i would absolutly like the idea of a 500-550ish sequential setup. that would have almost instant spool and loads of torqe down low and a superwide powerband.

Id Guess that you have seen that supra driven Before i woulden't say he is skillless it's Peter Björck that drives. just had a bad day but saved it in the end. And got lucky with the buss stop for the extra swingroom!

id say EGT will sky rocket at high boost as the whole sequential turbo system is verry restrictive on exhaust side. i had an idea when i bought hybrid turbos about building a custon manifol aslo the exhaust pressure would get verry high imo. people thinking that this will be cheaper then single setup (small) id say are way off. great fun bit of kit though. Good Luck paul!

I just did a factory reset from the instruction above. I was pretty ease with a ohm meter and the mesuring tool.

My thoughts are. Heatwraping the manifold makes it less prone to cracking as most often cracks are from to fast cooling so with hearwrap it will take longer to cool down. I would try to avoid wraping anything else unless its needed (to close to other parts) especially the downpipe as with higher temps you need bigger pipes to evacute the exhausts. Turbo blankets i have no real thoughts about heard lots of turbos fail but iam npt sure its coused by blankets or not.

I would fix that before driving any futher. If you think your fix is enough then carry on. Leaking oil around the turbo is never a good thing. There is no preasure in the line. If your line is too small diameter it may not be enought to evacuate the oil in the same pase it goes in to the turbo. I would not use a heat sleve until you are 100% sure you have fixed the leak as i may soak the sleve in oil. Yes it is probebly heat resistant. But you dont want to boil the oil too much on its way down as that may clog the line with burnt oil. Heat sleve is a good thing in my opinion

Howdy

Check all heater hoses there are a few under the intake. Water takes all strange ways. Car would run if the block is cracked yes. Aslong as its not cracked into multiple cylinder but i Really doubt that is the Case. Check core plugs while you are at it.

if you are running 460bhp on stock 440cc injectors you are pushing the limit (iam asuming using higher fuel pressure to take the verry last possible power from the 440cc)

about the size on a 6 cylinder engine you can use a rule of thumb that 1bhp=1cc flow from the injector that is at 100% duty cycle using normal fuelpressure. So in other words 650 injectors=650bhp @ 100% duty cycle and so on. you dont want to be to cheap on the tollerance. injectors are design to run @ 80% duty cycle to get the best mixture. in this modern times its almost "the bigger the better" and its pretty much true as modern injectors are well designed and still provide good mixture even at low duty%. Injectors dont usually cost more the "bigger" they are, mostly pretty much the same price (unless you are going WAY bigger then what the regular market is providing) i don't see any disadvantage to use 800cc over 650cc. (unless your mapper says a certain brand is verry hard to map on low load and medium load)

Single Plate pros. Price, installation, Cons. More load on thrust bearing chews fly Wheel (sinter) Multiplate pro. Weight closer to center. Takes more torque more solid built pressure Plate. Cons. Takes modification mostly to fit. Price. Noisy

also with someone as jurgen as your competetor iam betting its not easy judging by jurgens awsome feedback.

Okay as i was about to buy my Supra i contacted Paul Brown Cars regarding one of there cars advertised on Pistonhead and other various sites. is said nothing about the car beeing sold and as i was genuinly intrested in the car i started off with emailing. Did not recive any reply and after 3-4 days i Phoned and on the other end there was a verry typical car salesman.. When i said what car i was intrested in you said it had been sold weeks before. i said Okay strange i saw the add same day on pistonheads and it did not say sold or anything. Said i was intrested in another car and same thing about that one.. it was sold aswell.. however you had other cars that where suposed to be MINT and PRESTINE and what not. i got the impression you where dodgy searched around here and found a thread where people where not allowed to comment about you or you would sue them... so i thought this dont sound right and walked away. a mate of mine did too.. you lost 2 potential buyers with cash at hand due to the dodgness... also i just feel that its VERRY rare that "no smoke without fire" is totally wrong..

Well if you as a car dealer cant spot a seriously damaged car from the looks dont you think one should switch working branch? not trying to be a smart ass but if a butcher cant tell the diffrence between pork and beef they dont belong in that branch either! all i see is what others already said he keeps avoiding the real questions!

A good thumb rule is the bigger the turbo exhaust housing the smaller the wastegate. Boost wise you can keep it shut for as much boost as you want

maximum power is 12:6 AFR however it is still pretty lean so most people tend to go richer (loosing power) to keep exhaust temps down to a more controllable level.

14.7 is for maximized combustion nothing to do with it beeing perfect. 14.7 is the best combustion in terms of emissions not power. Also as he is using 91 octane its fair bit more likely to knock erlier then using 95-99 octane. running less then 12 would be your aim imo. probebly around 11.5 as max value during WOT/maxboost. using exhaust temprature would be good to make sure it does not go out of hand.

£600 would not cover the cost by far at a Toyota garage in Sweden. I would guess atleast 15000sek (£1500) for a job like that and possible more. The know how regarding supra at Swedish Toyota is verry limited aswell. Where in Sweden do you live?

I would remove the TB and do a proper reset to all sensors including the tc and sensor if thats still in place.

i would buy a new flange in mild steel as yours seem to be aluminium. and weld a pip onto the new flang and then weld a AN connector to the pipe once its clears all the big stuff. or even just weld the pipe to the flange and put a hoose on it using a clamp. or maybe you could remove the housings of the turbo to attach it and then once it sits there asembly the housings again.