RA28
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Everything posted by RA28
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My biggest regret was selling my Mustang shaped 77 liftback with the 18RG lump.
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Please beeing is there anyone else hear that is not being speek Inglish so they can helb me finding a pretty colour Soobra
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please not taking my wee wee, I am just want pretty colours
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Hello, I am from the not Ingland and want to buy a nice Soobra please be my frends and I like pretty colours
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If you dont have any spare bulbs, I would suggest swapping around ones that you know to be working. At least you can establish if the issue is just bulbs. The Auto gear indicators have tiny T2 wedge bulbs fitted under that thin rectangular plug at the lower centre. It is fiddly to remove but the bulbs are easy to change and LEds are available in this size if you want brighter bulbs. The "P" on mine was not lit, so I swapped it for an LED which looks nicer and should last longer. The only issue with LEDs is having to turn them around if they do not work the first time and the law of sod dictates that they will always go in the wrong way. There is a T10 bulb under the actual gear lever housing. It is another fiddly job and again I would recommend a multi SMD led bulb to really light it up.
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The stereo was playing up, so I got this Kenwood double din from ebay at a very reasonable price. It was an easy swap and it sounds great with the new speakers that I fitted The cabin is a very nice place to be now
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I went with 100 degrees based on what other members had posted, but if 80 works, then I would recommend the safer option.
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They have these on ebay and other tinternet suppliers really cheap. Just google T5 wedge bulb holder http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QTY-20-T5-AUTO-WEDGE-LED-LAMP-HOLDER-BLACK-/190647821370?pt=UK_ConElec_LightingLEDsStrobes_RL&hash=item2c637ee43a
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Are there any cut wires on the back of the odo plug?
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Do it! For removal, I preheated oven to just over 100 degrees C and put them in for 5 minutes, then tried to prise them apart. I had read somewhere to start from the outside of the unit to avoid snapping off the small clips. They were not soft enough after 5 mins, so they went back in for another 7 minutes. This did the trick and they came apart easily. The hot glue is messy and if it sticks on things, is hard to remove so be careful. Remember to wear some heatproof gloves as the light will be hot! Look out for a small white plastic clip that will most likely fall out. It locates in a square hole near the bottom of the insert. When reassembling, put the lens into position and pop in the oven at 100 degs for around 5 mins. This should be enough to gently push the lens back into place and get the metal clips on. 100 degrees for just over 5 mins
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All back together now. Youi can see in the photos where the inner is fouling on the lens, where the black dot is showing[
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Having a bit of time over easter and after succesfully fitting facelift indicators I decided to have a go at facelifting the headlights. It seemed rude not to. The wife was not pleased about my car being in the oven. I was going to leave the rings in chrome, but the masking tape caused a reaction, so I went for Halfords rubberised black with a matt black top coat and machine polished the lens. Just got the passenger side back in and have to upset the wife again shortly to finish the drivers side; I quite like the mean MadMax look. The only issue was that the outer rings foul slightly on the inner lens. Is this just the design? Has anyone else had the same issue?
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While I was sorting the indicators, I thought that it would be rude not to give the headlights some love....
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Bulb holders as follows http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10-Bulb-Holder-Waterproof-Car-Headlight-Socket-W5W-194-/250900389651?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6ad41f13#ht_2841wt_689 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7440-T20-Wedge-Car-Truck-Light-Bulb-Socket-Connector-/180653706896?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0fccce90#ht_2674wt_959 Much cheaper than buying Toyota looms.
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I converted mine a few weeks ago with the same Autoart units. As I was reluctant to pay for new looms, I also found t20 and t10 holders from eBay. They took around 2 weeks to arrive but the quality is good. As I wanted the passenger side to be able to unplug, I have modified the original bulb holder which works really well. At the moment, I only have the larger t20 bulbs fitted and I did have to open up the slots in the back of the new lamp unit slightly to get the holders to fit. I also tried amber smd LEDs but the resistance was too low for the flasher unit. My next job is to piggy back the t10 holders onto the flasher looms and use a pair of silvered amber bulbs in these. This should allow me to then use the t20 LEDs as the resistance will come from the other bulbs. I will take some pictures of the mods as I will be doing this today or tomorrow. I did drill the extra holes in my bumper, as I was concerned that the units would not be secure. The originals orange units have a third bolt on the top. It was easy to make the holes. Use a sharp drill it and gradually push it to make a slot. You need a slot rather than a hole otherwise you will struggle to line all 3 of the captive bolts up. Hope this helps.
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The previous owner of mine had fitted a simple Euro style beesting aerial.
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http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=STIBODY10&c=EX&year=1996&make=TOYOTA&model=SUPRA
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Will you be putting in a dump valve?
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I will take the carpet if still available please.
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They probably looked quite nice when they were new, but Mr Toyota did not appreciate that there would be so many of us Supra fans trying to make them look factory fresh 18 years later