V8KILR

There are lots of UK Link dealers if you want new. http://www.linkecu.com/dealer-network/ I have just upgraded from my Link plugin to a Link Thunder, so may have my ecu for sale soon. It also has the Link KnockLink as well, which I would want to sell with it.

I have all the Supra sales brochures from 1993 to 2002, plus a couple of special 1996 brochures. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm#BROCHURES Also a few price lists. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm#PRICES

You seem to be forgetting that there is a lot more to a GTE Supra than just the engine. What can be even more expensive is upgrading the NA drive train to handle 750bhp. If you have an auto NA then you will need either a built TT auto, 3.7 diff and driveshaft or a Getrag, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, pedals, driveshaft, 3.266 diff, etc.

Don't the stock dampers have a tendency to crack and fail over time. I use a Fluidamper for that reason.

Down here in NZ, with the high hp street Supra's that I know of, the multiple pump option seems to be more popular. More complex to setup and tune are the downsides. If building a racecar that will see little to no street time, then a surge tank, feeder pump and big single pump is what most people use as pump noise does not matter and it is simpler to setup and tune and you get a larger surge tank vs the small in-tank surge container that the Supra has. Thinking more about how long you would get detonation for when a single pump failed, I think it could be quite a long time. Comparing to a water hose being turned off, it probably takes 1 second for flow to drop to near zero when the tap is turned off. If the same is true for injectors, then the a/f ratio could be in the detonation range for up to 1/2 second. At 8000 rpm with a 6 cylinder, this means there could be hundreds of detonations that occur before the a/f ratio is too lean to detonate. Does anyone know of any research in this area?

You probably also get a few engine cycles where there is still enough fuel to detonate when a single pump fails. I don't know if anyone has ever done a test to see which is best, but my guess is that the ECU will shut the engine off quicker. That's why you always need a fuel pressure sensor hooked up to the ECU if using multiple pumps.

Using OEM pumps (1 or more) which the big Walbro pumps are, would be more reliable than a big single aftermarket external single fuel pump. As for the danger of a pump failing, for a built engine you should always have a fuel pressure sensor hooked up to the ECU, so you can shut the engine down quickly. A single pump failing at max boost could still take out the engine. You should stage multiple pumps, so you would be running just one pump when off boost (99% of the time), which would be way quieter than a big external pump. I run two Walbro pumps, staged so one comes on at 10 psi boost so is very quiet off boost and when on boost the exhaust drowns out any extra fuel pump noise. I also run a fuel pressure sensor as well.

Nope, it's the JZX100 R154 that fits perfectly.

I have run an ACT XTreme +50% pressure plate for many years with no thrust bearing issues. Don't have your foot on the clutch when you start the car. If you do then the thrust bearings will wear out quickly.

There were a total of 71 JDM Facelift 199 Silver Metallic TT Autos made. They were only made from May 1996 to July 1997.

I wish I'd stayed with the stock intake. You can make 1000hp on stock intake, so no need to upgrade for power reasons for most people, only for cosmetic reasons.

When I had a custom aftermarket intake manifold made (with an 80mm throttle body), it lost around 500 rpm of spool when I went back for dyno testing. It had internal trumpets, so not sure why this happened?

All the production information on my site is correct. How does missing information or lack of information on these topics make my site wrong? Since these topics are of great interest to you, I'll add some more information on them to the site.

It was manufactured in Oct 1993 so is a 1993 model. However, it may not have been first registered until 1994, so may be legally considered to be a 1994 model if that is the case. Your ownership papers probably legally specify that information.

Adding turbos would probably decrease the value. NA Auto would break easily with a single turbo. Sell it and buy a TT if you want turbos.