supna

I think the EP82 is much better to mod and drive. The EP71 is quite rare I beleive

Ash The big metal thingy I think you are talking about at the end of the plastic air pipe(not the air box end) is the throttle body. If you have a bit of gunk of crap in there get a can of carb and air intake cleaner and spray it inside the throttle body. That should break down all the crap inside there.

Just a thought, if I change the oil do I use 75/90 gear oil or LSD Oil? Mine has the factory LSD fitted.

Chris mine is the 5 speed box and the clonking is quite unbearable when it does it, it sounds like the exhaust or prop shaft is going to fall off!!!!

So would replacing the diff oil be a good move then??? I am guessing that I have very little or old oil in the diff and when it gets warm it is thinning out and not lubricating properly. Anyone know how much oil and what type to use on the differential. Also where the drain plug and the refill holes are, would be gratefully apprieciated. Ta

Alex Im pretty sure its the prop becacuse when I pull away its as if the prop turns and clonks. I guess that if it was loose sub frame bolts it would do it all the time not just when it warms up?

Recently I have started to have a knocking noise come from the back end of the car which I thought was the exhaust. After checking the exhaust and concluding it was'nt that, so I think I figured out that the it is the prop shaft knocking as the car pulls away. The strange thing is this only knocks or clonks when the car has been driven for a while. My questions are: 1) Should the prop shaft turn at all by hand if I am under the car checking it? 2) Are these the effects of the differential not having a) enough oil or b) no oil. BTW the car is an sz with the factory lsd fitted. Thanks

Prob have to change the fuel pump and fuel ecu in the boot cos I dont think the NA one is big enough.

If you look at the pic below the IAC is the black thing with wires coming out in front of the throttle body. Next to it (To the right on the picture) which looks like the same thing is the throttle position sensor. Screws are a bit tough though as they are threadlocked in I believe. Another option would be to remove the big black pipe and spray carb/air filter cleaner into the throttle body and aim down the little hole in the inside of the throttle body to get into the IAC. Or it could be duff petrol as everyone else says. http://www.celica-club.co.uk/cgibin/photopost/data/620/1830603_083905X-med.jpg

Take off the IAC valve and blast it with some air filter cleaner. Chances are its clogged up and not controlling the Idle.

The gasket as far as I can remember is metal and should not need replacing. I have never changed my gasket when I change the plugs. Does seem quite daunting when doing the plugs for the first time because you have to take so much off. First time I did it took about and hour and a half now I can do it in around 20-30 minutes. If you need any more help let me know

On MVP's website they state that the NA requires modification for these headbolts, is this correct and what mod would it be? I will be changing my HG and would prefer to use ARP head bolts instead of stock. David

See post reply under technical, no point in having two posts running

I use Valvoline Semi-synthetic. Get the cam belt done anyway, its piece of mind more than anything. Should cost between £150-200 to get the belt done but get it done by someone who knows what they are doing. Bung some platinum plugs in there while your at it.

If the fuel pressure regulator isn't working properly would this cause idle problems (ie not pushing enough fuel through hence ecu comensating the fuel air mixture)? What are the tell tale signs of it being knackered? Ta David