Jez sutherland

My UK 6 spd makes the same rattle - I assumed if was the flywheel. Hasn't caused any problems - just makes the car sound crap. Same story as scooter - going to get it done at the same time as the clutch etc. Nothing really to worry about I think. Jeremy

The headlights will be comming out to replace the indicator bulbs! I am now so good at doing this I can do it in 10 minutes! Indicators that had the front glass screwed on would be ideal - preferably clear ones - but I've not seen any like this. Let me know how you get on with your search. I'll try and post a pic later. Jeremy

I've just finished meshing my bumper aswell. I only meshed the two side openings (as I put a new intercooler in the stock place, and wanted to stop it eating fag butts and leaves). I took the bumper off and bolted the mesh in using the indicator mountings. It took a while as the mesh needed to be shaped and edged - but I'm pretty happy with the result. The car is all back together now.......and no left over bits! A little tip for anyone taking the front undertray of a UK TT - don't bother trying to dismantle the active spoiler to get the front undertray off. Just get the bumper off and unbolt the whole tray and spoiler assembly in 1 piece. Not that you will need to do this if just meshing the bumper:stupid: Jeremy

OK guys, I've got a totally knackered stock IC on my UK TT 6spd, and I also have a very nice, shiny replacement from Chris W waiting to go in it! If one of you can explain (in terms for an electronics idiot:) ) how to measure the inet air temps - I'll do a before and after on this IC in a MKIV running stock boost. For what it is worth - the IC from Chris is clearly a quality bit of kit and looks very well engineered. I know this doesn't make it efficient............but it gives me confidence it is! I chose to replace mine with another side mount because I didn't want to lose the active spoiler - and I agree with Chris about effective ducting and not covering the radiator. For what it is worth - my stock IC is 9 years old, very crumbly with broken and blocked fins. The car is noticably less powerful when the weather is even slightly warm. It is not doing its job! Jeremy

My car had Uniroyals on when I bought it. My car UK TT 6spd handled like a bag of s**t then to put it mildly. It was so bad that I thought that maybe I'd made a mistake and bought a car that was too powerful and tempermental for me:eek: (How wrong can you be:D ). Anyway - I put a set of Bridgestone SO2s on and the handling improved dramatically - I could not believe how much! As a matter of interest the tyre place actually laughed at the Uniroyals when they saw them on a Supe! I personally think 19s are too big for the supra as they leave little flex in the tyre wall - but that shouldn't make the handling as bad as you say. Definately get decent tyres - the Uniroyals aren't good for anything in my experience. I use Bridgestone SO3s now - which I think are excellent. Hope this helps, Jeremy

This is one of the most entertaining threads I've seen in a little while. I'm no technical genius by any standards - but this issue actually seems really obvious to me! I'm not going to kick this off again with any controversial comments - but I think there are some excellent explanations of the physics (and practicalities) of braking here. Even if some are a little 'comfused' Thanks guys - you've livened up a boring day - I'm just off to warm my brakes up with a blow torch now - this is a good thing to do isn't it:D Jeremy

ScoobyJawa has a point here - I remember from my design days back in school (a fair while ago!) that having holes in things (e.g. Brakes) didn't necessarily weaken them. Metal, like wood (and plastic!) has a 'grain', which is defined by how it is cast and shaped. Machining cuts though the grain of the metal, weakening it. Forging reshapes the grain, and is thus stronger. I'm sure the engineers on here will tell me that technically I'm talking bollox - but they will know what I mean. Mechanical stresses can flow 'around' a forged hole but will focus on a 'machined' one. Or - am I talking bollox? Anyone? Jeremy

Chris, Don't know what the score is with your tach and speedo - there should be loads of info if you do a search on speedo conversions. I don't know about this personally as I have a UK spec - but Pete Betts (TRL Performance) on this board seems to be the guy to speak to about this sort of stuff. Jeremy

I got a very nice set of replacement dials (faces) from Justin at Torque IC. Mine are silver backlit in blue but he does them to any spec. Don't know if he is still doing this though as he had some problems with is supplier. Jeremy

In my infinite ignorance I just assumed that it was a simple addaptor to get from one size of pipe to another:stupid: Looks like I've learned somthing new (again!) today! Jeremy

Got a wheel alignment check a while ago, also have a new LSD - but I do take roundabouts in a rather 'enthusiastic' manner:) I've got new SO3s on the rear now - will check at the weekend if they are still wearing differently. On the wheel alignment front - the tyres always wore very evenly - just the left rear more than the right. As a matter of interest - I really rate the Bridgestone SO3s - excellent grip and they don't wear out in 10 minutes like the SO2s do! Jeremy

No idea why this happens mate - but if it makes you feel any better mine does the same (UK TT 6Spd). I always thought it was cos all of the road crap and manhole covers/drains were in tha path of that wheel? Then again, there is probably a more technical explanation? Jeremy

Martin, I did a search on this a couple of months ago - only came up with a couple of posts, but nothing of direct help. So - it's not that I didn't search - do you think maybe that the button is broken somehow? Jeremy

MGB, Please let me know how you get on with this - I've got a 94 UK TT with the same problem and would like to get it sorted out. The thing I'm a bit unsure about is the wiring - an 'idiots guide' would be really useful as I don't want to blow the car up! Anyone got any ideas where the wiring to the LEDs ends if it doesn't hook up to the main loom? Cheers, Jeremy

OK guys, Bearing in mind all that has been said - especially about the UK specs: I have a UK 6spd TT, which will be getting in nice new exhaust soon. I'm also seriously considering getting rid of the second cat (not the first one though). What else will I need to do? Will I hit fuel cut? Will I need a VFCC? Will I need a boost controller to get anything other than stock boost (due to the bigger UK wastegate?). I'm sure this discussion has already provided the answers to this - but could someone actually spell it out for me as I'm being very hard of thinking today! Cheers, Jeremy

Mine doesn't whine in any gear - but is a bit of a bastard to get into second some times! I think the supra gear boxes are pretty bomb proof though - I wouldn't worry unless it fails (the worry - they are big money!). Jeremy

I'd be interested to know at what voltage the supra pump is run at as standard - this appears to make a significant difference. Could this also help explain the differences in everyones test results? Or am I being thick as usual? Jeremy

My UK spec turbos are going well at 105,000. You never know though! Jeremy

Guys, I've got a stock UK TT (6spd) and the second turbo does not come on with a kick - it just eases in. The turbo is definitely working (I think - I can hear it start to whistle at 3500-4000 rpm) - do you think I have a problem here? If it helps to give you an idea performace wise - a subaru STI has the edge over me until about 80MPH. My intercooler is definitley knackered (8 year old stock Toyota item - very crumbly!), and the car is noticably faster when colder. Do you think this could have something to do with it? Unfortunately I've got no way of reading my boost pressure. Would a low boost pressure problem be identified during servicing? (OK, can they tell anything during servicing!?!). Any ideas? Cheers, Jeremy

Guys, Check out the tech articles on http://www.mkiv.com - there is one called 'European hood scoop install' that covers alot of the things you need to know about doing this. As for if having the vent actually working is of any use to you J-spec guys - I guess not as it was not fitted as standard. I think this might be because you have ceramic turbos - less susceptable to heat than the steel UK ones perhaps? Good luck - I wouldn't fancy cutting a big hole in my bonnet - but then I've already got one!