Josh42

Today, at around 1618hrs, A34, Newcastle Under Lyme, heading north towards UHNS.

White supra with a BGW spotted in Harborne, Birmingham yesterday at around 0900hrs. Who was it?

Siemens DEKA 650cc top feed and stock FPR mate. No mention of cam sensor issues (don’t think the GE runs a Crank angle sensor?)

Video here:

I don’t have the scope mate, unfortunately. I can see the voltage is at the coil, using a continuity test, but that’s all. Agree, the fault didn’t exist on the old pump

Yes, AFR’s down into the 10/11 region and then an almighty pop from the exhaust when restarting. I can pull it and send it over to you later Mike, if you wouldn’t mind. Nothing at all, other than the symptoms presented. It maps up absolutely fine on low boost, achieving perfect AFR’s and making strong power all the way up. We did suspect the injector drivers, however, the oscilloscope was showing the injectors opening and closing as they should, even after the shutdown

There’s no sign of a miss at all, it begins to make boost then immediately shuts down all 6 cylinders and won’t allow you to restart the car immediately (assuming because it’s flooded).

Hi Mike, It’s an AEM 3.5 bar map sensor and still running the distributor, yes

Apologies for the long back story... The car is an NA-T, running AEM V2, Greddy OLED and Whifbitz turbo kit. Running BKR7EIX plugs. Car was previously mapped to 510hp at 21PSI of boost, using a Walbro 255lph pump around 2 years ago. I’ve recently installed a Walbro 400lph and took it back for the map to be adjusted. The car maps up just fine on low boost (450hp @13.9PSI) l but as soon as we try and run high boost we encounter an issue. The car will build boost up to 4500-5000RPM but then immediately shut down all 6 cylinders. The ECU still thinks that the car is running and is still sending signals to the injectors to pulse. Injectors are still pulsing (verified with scope and on ECU). I’ve tried replacing the coil with another, but the issue is exactly the same. Any ideas welcome.

Hi Chris, I’ll get an email over to you shortly. Thanks, Josh

Hi Chris, Also have 2/3 here

That will be Chris Tilley. Are you local? I’m from Cannock, so just down the road from here.

SOLD

I’ve got someone collecting Tuesday. I’ll let you know if anything changes mate

Bump

Hi all, Since installing an R154 conversion, the clutch release point is right at the top of the pedal stroke and makes for difficult driving. I know you can adjust the rod from the back of the master cylinder, but can anybody guide me as to which way to turn the rod and how to set the pedal stop? TIA Josh

Yep, I’m interested

Bump

I have most of what is required for a manual conversion for sale. - W58 MKIV remote shifter box (rebuilt with new bearings in 2016 and will be serviced and checked prior to sale) - shifter (r154 so slightly taller but fits) - 2JZ flywheel - Transmission mount and crossmember (I’m waiting for a spare to be delivered at the moment). - Front half of propshaft to suit MKIV - RPS Max clutch with street disc (the most friendly and streetable 500+lbft clutch you’ll find!). It uses a factory Toyota friction disc for drivability too. Plenty of life left, has around 10k miles on it. - OEM flywheel bolts (used and would recommend replacement) - Clutch bolts (used and would recommend replacement) - OEM Toyota release bearing - less than 5K miles - OEM slave cylinder - OEM master to slave hard line £1200, but open to sensible offers.

Box will be removed this weekend and dropped with Agency. Reasonable offers accepted.

Hi All, - MKIV remote shifter W58 gearbox, complete with 2JZ bell housing, gearbox mount, reverse sensor and speed sensor. The box was rebuilt in May 2016, with all new bearings by Agency Transmissions. - Clutch release fork and OEM release bearing (covered approximately 5k miles). - RPS Max clutch with street disc. This has been fitted for circa 10,000 miles, however, it still has plenty of life and the friction disc is OEM Toyota and therefore is easily replaced. - 2JZ OEM solid flywheel - MKIV manual prop shaft - Clutch slave cylinder - Master to slave hardline - Shifter (this will be the R154 shifter which will fit, but will sit slightly taller than a stock W58 shifter). What’s not included to complete the conversion: - transmission tunnel panel (available from Toyota) - manual gear surround - Clutch and brake pedal - master cylinder - bell housing bolts Offers around £1200

I’ve been running a RPS Max clutch with street disc on my 500hp NA-T for a few years now, without issue. It’s a lovely clutch, full faced so no judder, bites like stock and not stupidly heavy. I believe the other alternative is the Spec Stage 3+

I’d personally drop the engine. Will give you the opportunity to replace the cambelt, water pump etc while you’re there