Josh42

Here's a photo with Rich.2211's stunning BNR32, beautiful car! and a couple of others taken by Rich that day

Bump?

I don't mind the sound too much now, but a tubular would be nice. I don't think I'll bother for the length of time for the amount of time im likely to keep the car. I asked Paul and unfortunately they don't,

Hi mate, No this is a Borgwarner S360 turbo I'm running now:)

I did want to swap out the log manifold for a tubular unit, but you're absolutely right, there's no lag at all. I'm just a little unsure on the noise

https://vimeo.com/135173560

Finally, here's a soundclip, obviously the video was sped up by 3x to make it appear that I was exceeding the speed limit....:rollseyes:

I think it's historical brake fluid, but I can't find a current leak.... Any ideas Ben?

I still love your old car Dunk:)

I can't see a split in any of the flexi's or hard lines, and there's certainly no evidence of a leak... I think It could be a blockage or the master cylinder rubbers

Hi all, A friend from work is having an issue with the brakes on his 1996 Celica GT and I'm hoping you guys maybe able to offer advice as to the potential root cause. So, the symptoms: The car was absolutely fine driving home from work and when parked on the drive, the next morning on the drive in, he noticed the pedal travel was excessive and the brakes only started actually slowing the car at the bottom of the travel. He checked all corners for obvious signs of leaks and noticed an amount of thick gunk on the back of the N/S/F wheel, but none of the others. He's tightened up all brake unions, replaced copper washers on banjo fittings and then attempted to bleed the brake system. He did make the mistake of trying to bleed the N/S/F first, as opposed to beginning furthest away from the master cylinder, however, even then there was so much air coming out, with no signs of letting up even after topping up way over 1L of brake fluid. Here's where it gets really strange, I popped round to give him a hand and told him to begin bleeding from the N/S/R, but when we cracked the nipple and operated the vacuum bleeder, no fluid came out. We pretty much removed the bleed nipple and still no fluid came out... Any ideas?

What have you managed to sort in the end mate?

Is that factoring in the supra being an import or a UK model?

Did you look at the R33's like we discussed Aid? They can be had for reasonable money and with being a factory turbo car, would also be kinder on the insurance front than an NA-T. It was another one of the cars I considered when buying my sup:)

Any level of boost on a W58 is taking it near its limit to be honest mate. It's not really a case of "if it fails" it's more a case of when. It's also not just the box, the NA-T kits are advertised as being bolt on - it's not that simple. all the supporting work required to make a reliable setup is what takes the effort. TT6's are the model to buy, but unfortunately because of that they are ever increasing in value. Earlier part of this year I paid Torque GT a deposit and gave them a budget of £13k to find me a white facelift TT6 with less than 70k miles. They came back with 1 silver TT6 in 8 weeks of searching:( If you decide to plough ahead with the NA-T of course I'll be happy to lend a hand and a spanner mate

I can honestly say, if I were to know back when I brought my supra, what I know now, I honestly wouldn't have bothered and I would have either brought a TT6 or another car. NA-T is fantastic, but it's a huge outlay to still then be limited by the box. Even if I secure a 6speed, my car will not be worth what a genuine TT6 is. Plus, finding a 6speed or an NA6 in the first place is proving to be a near on impossibility. Harsh reality but true.

Hi all, Since posting my last thread about my current supra key being hideous, I've been looking around for an OEM option to replace it with. Last weekend I drove Rob_SRi's car and noticed he has a Celica Gen7 key which is functional in the sense that the lock/unlock buttons both work as they should. Rob does have to use his alarm fob to unimmobilise the car after unlocking it though. I currently have a Clifford Concept 300 alarm fitted which I will be replacing shortly. If a particular alarm unit would be required to get the celica key to work, I'll look into it. Does anybody know how I would go about it?

Cheers Adam, although I'm very envious of yours - I have a DJG fetish! Definitely worth all the heartache!

Aha, cheers Dave - I think! :wink: Out of interest, what manifold are you running mate?

Cheers James, I'm looking forward to just enjoying it not to be honest! It's been a long time since I've just took it for a good drive without worrying. Just don't get too sucked in like I have mate. Quite easy for it to take over your life and sap all the fun and enjoyment out.

I know:( I'm not holding out too much hope! Cheers man, glad to finally have it where I want it. Drives so much better than it ever has now!

There isn't at the moment, will grab some tomorrow for you if the weather holds out.

Videos will be uploaded hopefully tomorrow:) Here's a quick snap of the supra in its natural habitat on the way home from collecting. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/25/00338f3c82dea4f19733894c4920f7e7.jpg It drives absolutely spot on, just like stock until you hit the loud pedal and then it spools up so fast! The manifold is most certainly going to be changed though!

Poor earth from one of the engine/body earth points

fwiw, from the numerous W58 failures I've seen and the others which I've read about, they don't tend to implode. They mainly lose third and fourth gear, but the other gears remain usable and selectable.