Mike2JZ
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Everything posted by Mike2JZ
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I sold S7+ not too long ago for that money. S6+ is good, but old now so should reflect price.
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Bought these for my build, was too excited to check the order and ordered a non vvti set when I needed a vvti. So got these brand new valve covers needing a new home, never fitted or used. Will take a small loss on them to shift them, so grab yourself a £200 deal on retail price. Finished in "Raw", so can be used as is, painted, anodized etc. Uses factory valve gaskets. Has two AN12 ports for breathers and a 1/8 NPT port for a crankcase pressure sensor if required. Comes with mounting hardware and other acessories. Price £680 Postage: £20 or collect from SRD
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Essentially you are just recreating this
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Havent got a UK specific wiring diagram in front of me right now, but think its the same as USDM (as below) MAP Sensor only goes direct to ECU on UK & Prefacelift cars. Facelift car has the PIM signal going from sensor to ECU & Pin 16 on Orange passenger footwell connector (which connects to dash gauge). I havent done a UK setup in facelift car before but seems you will just need to splice a new wire in your PIM wiring, and run to Pin16
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Is this a UK Spec Engine loom as well?
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This will be the relevant wiring diagram and colours for an early jspec i believe
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You have a choice. Either use the ABS Front/Rear output wiring that is sent from ABS ECU to the TRAC ECU. Make sure your traction control ECU is unplugged if you wish to use these signals. Or Go to wiring at the ABS ECU, and splice into the positive wire direct from the ABS sensors
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Cause your loom is GE you will be missing a tachometer circuit that the Link is expecting to have as they were designed to work with GTE loom. Basically you will need to run a new wire from A16 on ECU (aux 1) to Pin29 on orange passenger footwell connector.
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If you are stock engine with stock cams 0.84 will be a good fit. If you plan on doing cams then I’d go 1.X as you will be able to rev out better on the larger housing. Realistically on boost you will never be below 4000rpm
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Although the G series are more efficient, more response etc they are new versions to previous garrett turbos. GTX4088 is essentially a G40-900 and a GTX3582R is close to a G35-900. You should be able to find dyno sheets online for those on a 2J as they have been out for years now. Should give you a rough idea on the differences to expect in the wheel differences/sizing.
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G40 900 will be laggier than a G35-900 as the exhaust wheel is bigger. How much laggier I cant say as I dont have any data on our dyno with these turbos yet. If I had to hazard a guess, on a non vvti setup G35 will come on strong at 4k, G40 will come on at 4.5k
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No it won't, trust me im a doctor. 2JZ needs a decent size A/R or you will choke it, I see it all the time. I wouldnt bother with a quick spool valve due to reliability issues with them. If you haven't already seen this video, maybe you should watch
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If you are wanting to go down the garrett route with G series, I'd recomend the G40-900. Its also a 62mm but can be specced with a T4 Divided housing so you dont have to change manifold. Personally I'd go with a 0.95 or 1.06 housing, anything smaller usually creates a restriction at higher rpm. If you do go G35-900, then go with a 1.x housing.
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Well deserved, bummed I missed it but hopefully next year is even bigger!
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Remove this tab by unscrewing the m6 bolt that holds it in. With that tab in there it won’t let the spigot move beyond that point
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I'll calibrate your tacho as its being controlled via the Link ECU, so will be bang on. Same with speedo.
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I dont envy his job that takes some serious skill and patience! Thank god for james and kane
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Checked the 120amp fuse in the fusebox? You will need to remove the fusebox from the plastic housing in order to check continuity
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No. Mileage is stored in odometer, not the ECU. I’d you change your odo you will have different mileage unless you get it clocked yo your current mileage. if you are getting a buffer circuit error then no reason to change the odo just do the wiring mod for code 42 (Google it, plenty of threads on it)
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Yes those manifolds are the best ebay quality manifolds you can get. We have run them at 1000hp with no issues with the plenum yet, sometimes the throttles need a bit of tweaking but overall works well for the money. Alternatively there are a few companies making adapters for GE to GTE runners so you can run GTE intake manifold, these also work well.
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If you are going go to with a small single rather than a stock TT setup, then my advise would be to use GE VVTi head. Much nicer and better flowing and easier on the pocket, and you will need the same mods like injectors ecu etc if you are going small single.
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What’s the euromillion numbers gonna be this week?
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SRD Tuning is in the south east. We tune most ECU's depending on requirements, most commonly used is either Link P&P or Syvecs P&P units.
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MANY ECU's FAILING - ANY CLUB MEMBERS KNOW WHY?
Mike2JZ replied to herbiemercman's topic in mkiv Technical
Every popular standalone ECU has their own free software specific to their own ECU’s, which allows for the mapping, diagnostic and other functions to be explored. -
MANY ECU's FAILING - ANY CLUB MEMBERS KNOW WHY?
Mike2JZ replied to herbiemercman's topic in mkiv Technical
He isn’t stock, he’s NA-t
