Mike2JZ

There is a lovely 5 speed manual n.a currently in the classfields. Not an aerotop, but looks to be in good form which is getting rarer as these cars get older. Supra is a GT car and it feels right at home for a nice driving experience and cruising, so if you aren't power crazy then the NA will be a good place to start. NA's are generally are cheaper to maintain then their TT brothers, however cruising around cities/towns I wouldn't expect more than 300 miles out of a tank. You only start to get better fuel mileage on motorways ~350mi.

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Ditch the 19's Jacky

I just use toyota's 5w-30 in mine. There is a thread here on the different oils you can use. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?56684-FAQ-Oil-Fluid-Interval-Capacity-Steering-Brake-Coolant-Diff-Engine

If you want to borrow a spare toyota MT NA ecu then I have one. Would be interesting to get one dyno run on standard ecu and one on mines to see graph differences. As far as I'm aware I haven't seen such a thing posted online before

Get an oil pressure tester kit from ebay. Should be less than £20 delivered. Plug that in to cross check your pressure

When I unplugged my oil pressure sensor the other week to test oil pressure. I noticed that the oil pressure light on the dash did not light up when turning the key to ignition. It returned once the sensor was plugged back into the engine loom. Not sure if you have a GE or GTE, but on the GE the location for the sensor was on the passenger side of the block, located at the front under the intake manifold. Probably worth seeing if you can get your hand on the sensor plug and make sure it is sitting in their firmly.

I've just had this happen to mine. Even though I was using oem hoses, I replaced the oem clamp with a jubilee clip and I think I might have tightened it too much as the plastic caved in on itself and I started to lose pressure. Anyway, anyone know the rough cost of a new OEM unit and where to get one? (im guessing mr t)

Interested in a price for driverside headlight and could collect as I'm not too far away.

Has anyone in the club actually done this conversion yet? Thought the last guy to try with his 2J 350z gave up

As above, most classic policies have requirements that make it difficult for young drivers to have (at least from what Ive seen as well). I'm with admiral and on a similar amount a month and I'm 23, be interesting to see if you find anything cheaper

Wow, that looks like a very nice example at a good price. glws

Comparison sites online are usually more expensive than phoning up directly. There are a couple of 'specialized' insurance companies you could try. Sky, Adrian Flux, Compeition car etc search the forums insurance threads for some more ideas.

If you have no luck with the chaser gearbox mount, try driftmotion as they sell gearbox mounts for r154 on supra there. And if you don't want to pay their prices get a shop to build you a custom one

Why not just get a polished manual arm, and a billet shock arm that some vendors sell. That way you get the bling and reassurance your belt has less chances of coming off

Damn dude, sorry to hear. It's bad enough in the current weather with an na, don't think I could trust myself with 600hp under my right foot either. Don't give up, put it to the side for a while. Get another shell, transfer everything and start fresh for the summer.

/slowclap

meh

Hi all, As my supra recently hit 180k, I am slowly working through all the servicing outlined by toyota to see how the supra's components are holding up. So today I looked into testing my oil pressure. I've never had issues with oil pressure, but thought I'd test it just to practice and get some results. Bought myself a cheap ebay oil pressure kit (probably where half of this issue is coming) With the engine at operating temperature I had the following results IDLE (~25psi???) @3000 RPM - 5 Bar (72.5psi) So I noticed a couple of things that are strange (to me) TSRM states the above for minimum oil pressure. My results are higher than this by a sizeable amount, however the oil pressure tester kit was supplied with a spreadsheet of some common makes/models and the figure they had for the MKIV supra was 5 Bar @ 3000 rpm. So according to the spreadsheet my results are bang on (they didn't supply a number for idle). Then I noticed when I got home and looked at the photos, that the scale the gauge uses for Bar doesn't seem to make sense? Looks like it is missing 0.5bar in each segment of 10 marks or my basic maths skills have failed me. The actual gauge needle was smooth and consistent when moving between pressures, so I'm under the impression the engine is still making healthy pressure. So far I've though of the possible explanations to explain the above: a) cheap eBay gauge is inaccurate and is giving higher pressure readings then what's actually there b) eBay gauge knows it is inaccurate and supplies spreadsheet to provide factory figures that have been corrected? c) Current pressure reading is fine, and is healthy given the facts that the TSRM figures are the minimum. d) I'm over thinking this, can't do basic maths and need to go to bed. Anyone got any input on this?

It's ok keep it and sell it

The price was initially £40 as you know, but as a bit of club spirit I wanted you to have it if you covered postage in case it helped out. Putting it in the bin isn't the same as putting on the forum for sale

Bit cheeky as I gave that to you to help you out in case it would help, not for you to make money on?

NA's have a high cold start idle. Takes roughly 5 minutes for it to settle back down to 900-1000rpm. Also, if you have your headlights on this will increase the revs slightly at first. Whilst the cold start is normal, some thing you can check quickly to make sure you aren't idleing higher then necissary: - Check for vaccum leaks, any leaks causes revs to raise to compensate due to MAP sensor. (assuming yours is a jap import) - Ignition timing that is advanced past the factory 10 BDTC will also cause revs to be higher