Mike2JZ

Hi Welcome, Strip the decal and change that bonnet and you will have a rather tasty supra there.

Steady flash is fine means no code. Try the handbrake thing I mentioned above, should be the reason for the warning light.

Check you haven't got a leaky rocker cover (common thing on na's). If the oil is dripping down the head, then could be building up near the oil pressure sensor. Also check your front cam seals for the same reason. If neither are leaking then take the pressure sensor out and reseal it properly, think iirc it takes a 24/27mm long socket to fit over the sensor. If your master warning light is on, first bridge the TE1 & E1 ports on diagnostic port, and look to see if you are throwing any error codes (guides for what the codes mean can be found in technical section) Normally when hand brake warning light is on, the master warning light is on. If your handbrake light dosen't go off, then that would be a cause for why your master light isnt going off. Remove the panel surrounding the gearknob and locate the white plug near the handbrake, and disconnect it to see if this makes a difference. As to why the handbrake light isn't going off, I'm not sure but maybe you will find some clues when you find the plug for it. Oh and welcome, throw some pictures up off the car. Have you got an LSD, or you planning on welding the diff to get your NA to drift?

It becomes a question of preference I suppose then. If you want to sacrifice some noise + good road feel for harsher conditions by using a harder material then go for it. So long as you are targeting the correct bushes, then you will see an improvement. Just be wary that using harder materials for bushes will transmit more through the car, so if you have any other underlying issues (hubs, driveshafts) there is a risk that you will notice them more. I am just trying to convey that I believe the oem underbody setup is more than adequate to deal with wheelhop, even on higher power levels, assuming that the components are in good condition. Just don't go too hard with your choice of material

Not sure I follow your logic. You want to prevent your subframe cracking, so you want as near to a solid mount as possible? You need your mounts/bushes/suspension components to have some flex in them in order to disperse the energy that is being transmitted through your driveline/diff, rather than having it transmitted straight to your chassis/diff that you get with solid mounts or hard mounts, otherwise you risk warping/cracking. If we are assuming that your wheel hop is indeed created from a bush not doing it's job properly, then it is more than likely worn beyond the factory limits and the bush is allowing more movement then designed. Replacing said bush with an oem bush that is within spec will be the way to address this. If you have the majority of your suspension and bushes currently oem, then I recommend sticking with oem replacements. Oem parts are designed to work with each other. Yes using a polybush won't be the end of the world, but in my opinion unless you do the entire thing in polybush there is no point, as you start to upset the balance of the design of the car by throwing in foreign parts. Also, if you look into the design of polybush sets that are available for the supra, they are primarily made only of edit: polyurethane, whilst oem bushes are a mixture of rubber + metal nevermind just had a look and they both have inner metal sections, dunno why I thought polybushes didn't, difference is then between polybush material vs oem rubber. There is a difference for a reason, and imo I'd take toyota's design over 'performance parts', unless we are talking about a car that isn't a roadcar

As in oem bushes are superior to polybush ones, so if you are putting some time and money towards it go oem edit: especially as the rest of the bushes on the car will be oem as well (unless you have previously polybushed the rest?)

Do your subframe rebuild properly and get new oem bushes?

PM'd

Collection from where?

Hi Rob, this is the part name + #

Hi Rob, I've got one of the upper suspension upper arms. Bushes are in good nick, but more importantly the joint is in good condition. £45 posted

Is that throttle body still in decent condition? Looking for one for a friend that dosen't suffer from a sticky throttle

Is the manual conversion a must as you really want manual, or because there is the autobox won't work with the ITB's?

Ah sorry didn't see that they were open diffs, thanks anyway

what diff code is the turbo auto small case?

Looks like it has potential to be decent.. The only things that struck me as odd from reading through it are: - Claims he has a full veilside bodykit, but it dosen't. Looks to me like a mix of ridox front bumper, non veilside skirts, trial rear bumper and veilside spoiler. Seems a little strange that he doesn't know that (could just be ill informed)1 - For a car that has a "eat ya dinner off" engine, I'm surprised to see that he hasn't put one picture up of the engine bay - No mention of why the bonnet is discolored compared to the rest of the body panels. - He is lying about the mileage, the MOT history says he has done 108'000 miles. If you can see the car in person and it is in running order, and the receipts are legit then I would say with some minor work you could have a decent supra to start with. I'd offer him less purely because of the spoiler though Maybe you can find someone from the forum to go with you if you do go to look at it one day?

Think he is referring to the chinese manifold not the turbo

V8's don't go choo choo or have as much "street cred", therefore uncool and not used as much (in the uk at least, americans are all over it) The sooner they switch to V8's the better imo.

Sounds like an earth has come loose somewhere. Check the footwell you were working in, there is a 10mm bolt that holds a black/white earth, can come loose over time.

I'm gonna go with: Stock: 200bhp & Mines: 200 bhp

RockAuto do a really good deal on Platinum NA plugs, new leads, dizzy cap and rotor. Had all that delivered to my door for £90, much cheaper then buying individually from the UK.

Never mind answered my own question about 30 seconds later. Found the part number and they are identical across the prefacelift and facelift models I've just looked at. For reference

I presume they are the same, but I can't find any part numbers on the EPC to confirm. Anyone got any insight?

Word. I remember buy the top of the range oil when I first got mine, cost me a fortune and I honestly can't tell the difference between that and the 5w30 that Toyota recommend and about 1/4 the price.