Mike2JZ

Bodykit information also isn't accurate. I believe cwest v2 front bumper, oem spats and maybe top secret side skirts. SVA is just down the road from me, if you are serious about buying this car and would like me to go down and get more info or come see it with you then lemme know

This is the car in question I believe http://www.svaimports.com/cars/stock/supra-rz-2/

Can't say I've ever tested it but I think one of a few things might happen: 1) Won't make a difference if unplugged or not (especially if you aren't getting engine codes), potentially having just one of two plugged in is ok? 2) It will pull timing and ecu will chuck more fuel to avoid det (even though it isn't happening) 3) You will have a loss of power & irratic idle as ecu goes to a limp mode (but i'd expect a code to be stored) Maybe another member with more experience can confirm if any of the above is more likely then another.

Is towards the front or the rear of the block. If it's towards the rear, then it will be a knock sensor.

If you keep the stock ecu to control the auto gearbox then it's no problem. Seems to be issues when people are trying to control gearbox via aftermarket ecu. And yeah lovely car you have there dude, should get some video's up of what it's like to drive.

Elephant/Admiral were the only insurer to give me reasonable rates as a young owner.

Have you been living under a rock for the last 6 months? Prices for everything is on the up.

Just had a look online at parts catalog and it seems the bit you are after comes with handbrake cable when bought new. Amayama have the handbrake cable listed for £30GBP. Might be worth asking toyota if they still have any in stock in case you can't find a second hand cable with that bracket intact

Looking through those errors, they all share the possibility that the ECU could be the culprit. Maybe if you are lucky someone else with a TT near you can let you try their ECU just to rule it out as it takes 2 minutes to swap in and check.

Off the top of my head you would need to get: - Turbokit (Turbo, downpipe, intake/filter, turbo manifold) - Oil feed + return lines + drill your sump to insert AN adapter fitting for return - Intercooler (FMIC or SMIC will work) + Pipework - If you are manual, then you will need an upgraded clutch as stock won't cut it - Aftermarket management of some sort, piggyback or full standalone (GE Ecu can't handle boost) + sensors - Probably a good idea to get an AFR gauge - Bigger injectors - Wastegate + wastegate piping - BOV (optional) - Engine Oils/Coolant etc You might also have to take into account that turbo kits for 2JZGE on a supra, might not be a 100% fit in the GS300 engine bay. You won't be able to achieve any of this for £300 lol. If you do the work yourself, then you can maybe get away with 1.5k-2k on parts, if you find some second hand deals or want to risk using china crap. If you need someone else to do the job for you then budget another 1-1.5k for labour. All of the above takes is based on the idea that your current engine is in good condition, and dosen't need any seals replacing or service parts, otherwise that will be even more money to spend.

When my alternator died, I had nearly all the warning lights come on and my voltage was sitting around 12v. I think 13.8 is ok? Edit: my thread for reference

Unless it is low mileage and in perfect condition I wouldn't pay 8k for an na just yet. Realistically market price seems to be around 4-6k

Interesting, I think I remember reading something like that sometime in the past. Hopefully they haven't been discontinued

If you are putting it straight on a transported then I don't think anyone is going to care.

Sorry random question, but does the TRD diff fit inside a small case?

Could of had a bodykit previously and water has accumulated in the recesses

For the cost of a professional wrap job, I would rather just get a respray.

If you are serious about owning a supra then £10 membership is small change. It's worth it for all the knowledge articles etc

I have a driverside rear hub with abs still in it but cable has been cut where the cable normally goes through to the boot. I believe from a jspec Might also have the hand brake cable thing, will check next time I'm in workshop

Here you go

Looks awful. The arches look like someone made them out of paper mache

A friend of mine had one of those lightweight pulley's on and kept having issues with his clutch, and went through 3-4 before he switched back to oem crank pulley, where all the issues disappeared. Don't buy one.

I know it's a bit of an effort, but try flushing the PS system. If you have any air in the system, it will cause squeaking, even a small leak somewhere along the PS system could cause this. Could try some bearing lubricant otherwise

Sounds like you didn't give it enough power.

Pretty sure if there was a cost effective way to do this, then someone would of done it already. If you manage to make it work then yeah sure I bet there will be loads of interest