Mike2JZ

Looking at the fuel pump, there didn't seem to be any place for the clip to sit around. So who knows how it got there, but supra must of been running with it in the tank like that for ages so shouldn't be any different if I take it out the tank. Thanks for the comments guys

Around the fuel pump pipes that sit in the tank? - - - Updated - - - Ah was wondering why my fuel needle kept going to empty so often.

Took my fuel tank out yesterday to check if innards needed a clean. Luckily it was clean as a whistle, but found this sitting in the yellow fuel reserve. Anyone have any idea what this may be or if it's meant to be there?

Now here is someone that speaks some sense. Don't worry that superficiality is in the UK as well. You only need to go to london to see the amount of "bad boys" in their cars trying to make a scene

Pretty sure that is the one I saw at SantaPod last year. Had something ridiculous like a 98 or 105mm turbo on it

Try going full lock on steering and see if you get a squeal. I had similar symptoms when my crank pulley was on it's last legs.

A member on here owned that car for a short period before selling it on to buy a single turbo. I can't remember his forum name, but might be worth shooting him a message to get his impression of the car. Maybe another member knows who I'm on about and can link the guys name.

Don't forget amazon, normally their prices are as competitive as the ones mentioned above and if you have amazon prime, next day free delivery. I've used overclockers for years, but been cheating on them with amazon as prices can be lower when postage is factored in

Damn it haha

I'd be interested in your engine

Yup that's it. Engine just needs to be cranked slightly and off it comes. Can save some time if you don't have the tools to loosen the bolt off normally

FYI Parm, I paid £25 for the alloy strip and £13 for the rubber from Toyota directly a few months ago. Didn't enquire about the clips, but doubt they will be dear.

The only gripe I have with that spec is that there is no SSD. Also that graphics card is a tad overkill for general office work, unless you do a lot of image rendering/editing

http://www.japan-parts.eu/ has working diagrams

I have new posts bookmarked, so inbetween jobs at work I'll have a cheeky peak. Probably check more often then I should to be fair

doing some major work to mine this weekend so won't be making it

If you are happy doing the starter loosen trick, or have enough manliness to get the bolt off with a breaker bar then: - Wait for car to be cool, then loosen top radiator hose from the radiator side. Coolant lose will be minimal as thats the highest point of the coolant system. - Remove fan shroud (can loosly put top tad hose back in place for now) - Remove fan belt - Do starter trick/man strength with bar to loosen bolt - Remove bolt, then use a small pulley puller to remove pulley - Put new pulley on and reassemble This method means you lose barely coolant and don't really need anything but tools and a new pulley to go on. If you aren't happy using the starter trick, then drain the coolant system and remove radiator so you can try gunning the bolt off. You will also need to remove the radiator if your pulley removal tool is large and needs more space (i'd check this first once the fan shroud has been removed). Think there are other ways of doing this job, but these are the ways i've done it to mine before.

Isn't the HKS Vfcon pretty oldschool now? Maybe they are pushing you to Link as it's more cost effective/modern. Or they want to make a quick buck :3

Their customer support is shockingly bad. They still owe me a bloody tyre over a year later, but just moved on cause I wasn't getting anywhere with them.

That was my only worry when I heard there was a storm coming. You going to get another?

£150 is still too much imo. (in that condition) If you take the bumper to a decent bodyshop, they will be charging a minimum of another £150 to prep/primer/paint. As evin said, I'd rather just get a new one as you are getting to that sort of money then.

Looking for rear aftermarket coilovers. Ideally Tein SS, but flexible to options

The HTML fail on advert is amazing. Best advert ever. Also as someone said above, if you want to put this to rest show the dates on V5

Gaskets are usually ok. Seals on the otherhand have a tendency to go if they have been on there a while. Get a mechanic to give you a sitrep on front/rear crank seals, camshaft seals and rocker covers. If it definately coming from the sump then shouldn't be a big deal to get resealed.