Mike2JZ

If I can find the 1st decat in 2.5'' then I will definitely be interested matt. Also bump

got a set of tein ss for the rear so this is sorted now.

Could you find an adapter that will fit a 10mm sensor into 8mm hole?

Block paint is on. need to cure it still, but won't happen for another few days still

Brake booster, ABS pump, looms, clutch master cylinder all removed and bay cleaned by hand. Took a while but looks so much nicer now, was planning to spray the bay black but the white has come out nicely now, so will leave as is. Rear half of the chassis now has underseal in places it was missed before. Being a high mileage supra that has sat idle for years I was expecting rust on the underbody, but suprised to only find rust where the subframe large mounts connects to the chassis. So wirebrushed them back and rust treated before sealing them up. Once rear subframe is back on and the car is rolling, will stick it on the ramp and underseal the transmission tunnel/mid chassis area. Started the long and arduous process of removing the dust and surface rust from rear subframe. Ears are still ringing from the noise the bloody wirewheel on grinder makes. Still need to do the other side of the frame, then go back over again with more detail wheels to get in all the nook and crannies, before treating everything with anti rust before I can seal + paint. Another 5 hours if I'm lucky...yay Engine is dissembled now as well. head gasket and head look to be in good condition, but thinking I will get the valves reseated as there is some carbon buildup. Block needs a bit more cleaning + taping up before I can paint it. As I'm planning on wiretucking the engine bay loom, had to ditch the brittle plastic covers that sit near the headlight in favor of some tesa loom tape. Pretty impressed with the tape so far, think it looks a lot nicer than the stock loom cable protectors. Ordered some more of it and high heat resistant version so I can redo the engine and engine bay looms in it. Got two days of work still, so will continue living in the workshop more updates soon

Personally I could care less, the only factors for me would be the auto vs trans tunnel & hard vs aero as it could mean extra work, but still not the end of the world. I guess if you go down the purist route and care about resale value and rarity then of course rarer TT6 models will always demand more. Always like reading the yanks threads about ludicrous money being spent on the 98 quicksilver supra's.

It is a Cat D, so I would check for damage if you got to see it. Does look really nice in the photos though

When you replaced the TPS did you use a multimeter to calibrate the TPS into factory position? Would you be able to take a video of the behavior you explained above, or at least explain a little better how the car stalls. Does the engine shut off, but dash lights remain or does the whole car die? Is it instant stall, or slowly dies? There is a vsv on the firewall that has to do with the AC. Try checking for vaccum leaks on it, or disconnect it completely to see what effect it has on the car, and if you can get the vsv to work off the car (check TSRM if there is a maintenance procedure for this?)

Gone back and re-uploaded some of the previous photos so hopefully they are working now. Still waiting on my cleaning materials and some additional tools to arrive, so hopefully get started on that tomorrow evening. In the meantime however: Got our ramps setup in the unit, so this will help speed up the rebuild process when I get to that stage Also started pulling the loom bay loom through the firewall, so I can wiretuck the cables and get rid of the brittle plastic in favor of some new wiring sleeves/loom tape. Also removed the ABS and some hard pipes in order to get some cleaning done before putting them back in. Realized at this stage that I parked a little to close to the wall, so unable to get passengerside wing off in order to get access to cables. Bit hard to move the car with the rear end missing, but I'll figure something out. As my last rear subframe was butchered by a garage who tried to unseize some of the camber bolts a while back I had to get another second hand one. Ideally I wanted to get it shotblasted as it has some dirt & surface rust, but no one local could schedule me in on time, so the long process of wirewheeling and surface rust removal begins before I can use POR15 on it and start re-assembling it

I ordered my wheels from them and didn't have any issues, haven't really heard of them otherwise

If you are getting a thump over bumps then rear struts are on the way out. If you are getting vibrations, then more than likely your diff ear mounts and rear mounts need refreshing. Could also be the centre prop bearing

It's a service item,so you might as well unless you have just changed it.

Which ones are you having problems seeing? Are other members having this issue as well? Looks ok on my screen and I've uploaded pics directly to forum

Spent some time getting the arms and differential separated from subframe last night. Good to see the torsen Ao2B in the car is still in good nick as well, gears look still intact and smooth. Have put in a massive order for cleaning bits and some tools so come Thursday night engine will be split and under sealing can begin.

Cams came off next, oil was quite clean and head is clean which is always nice. Will still give everything a clean though as I doubt it's been done before. Just need to order a longer head bolt tool as mine was too short, then head can come off and be sent for skimming. Fuel tank on the way out Full of dirt on the outside, but remarkably clean on the inside. Really thought I'd have to clean the inside but no need Next up was this heavy bitch. Took less time to take it out then it did to wrestle with the siezed camber bolts Not to shabby underneath. Needs clean then ready for underseal That's all for now. Will update with subframe progress later.

Engine looks ok from this angle, wait till you see the dirt on it Engine partly stripped Storage room slowly turning into the supra room Back bumper off and overarches off in preparation for fuel tank and rear subframe drop Now the only thing I truely despise about this car is the cut arches. Really wish they hadn't been cut so I could return to a stock look, but always going to have to use a widebody kit on the rear unless I weld in new rear quarters which I really can't be arsed to do just yet. Luckily, the japanese dudes that did this god knows how many years ago spot welded and sealed their work so there isn't any rust aside from surface rust where the rivets sit. Either way will need a bodyshop to refresh this at some point. Back to the engine Was super hard to determine exactly where the leaks were coming from cause there is so much grime that has collected over the years. So just going to replace all the seals to be safe.

In her new home for the next few weeks Bonnet off and fluids out. Went to bed in the backroom after this and let the fluid drain for a few hours Up at dawn and exhaust was next to come off Followed by propshaft Next slave cylinder disconnected, gear shifter removed and gearbox mounts removed Wiring loom pulled through firewall, fuel and ps lines, heater hoses removed and engine/gearbox pulled out

Here is how the car looked on friday. Nice and dirty Need to find a better camera to use but until then enjoy some terrible iphone photos Engine bay currently has some parts repainted black. Will probably stick with something similar in future, but use crinkle paint. Front end removed (my mates who are bmw freaks found it funny that the middle chassis support is welded in from the factory, certainly makes taking the engine out harder) And this is why you shouldn't go too low kids. So much scraping. Will be fixing this once all the mechanical side is done.

Haven't updated thisthread in a while as I haven't done anything too interesting with the car overwinter as the car was running reliably and took me where I needed to go without hassle. Off the top of myhead however the following jobs were done: Oil & fluidservice HID's on dipped & fogs + led sidelights Installed a subenclosure and new under passenger seat amp Went from +25 to+30mm spacers on rear Swapped out thechris wilson front springs to tein super street front coilovers. So no longerscraping across half the roads I drive on. New oem pads front +rear + rear calliper rebuild BridgestonePotenza's all around for some better winter/wet weather grip, as the semislicks I had before were a bit sketchy Get ready for a wallof text (TLDR: some stuff is old, needto replace, got a workshop, work begins) I've had the car fora year and a half now and still totally in love with it. Yet being a highermileage supra, there are some niggles that have been slowly pissing me offrecently as some components are showing their age. Engine bay has never properly been cleaned since I picked it up from his garden where it lay dormant for a couple of years. Obviously most of the crud that was there when I picked it off has been removed, but the further down the engine bay you look the more dirt there is on the chassis. Never been bothered to clean it properly until the engine is out. The engine itself has been running strong and I have no complaints with performance, yet I had a few minor oil, coolant and power steering leaks which didn't affect me other than having to top off the fluids sooner, but is definitely something I wanted to address. Over winter I drove to Switzerland and I wondered if there was a strong wind outside as the rear end seemed to be swaying a bit on the motorway. Further driving and investigating showed me that it wasn't wind, but the rear bushes on the arms/diff were obviously past their usefulness and I was getting small bits of swaying and rear steering depending on the road and speed. Seized rear camber bolts obviously weren't helping this situation, as they are negatively cambered past factory spec and is another job I've wanted to address for ages, as I'm going through rear tyres unevenly & quickly! Rear suspension top mount on rear right side was squeaking and the struts felt like they were worn, as bumps felt quite harsh. Wheelhop throughout first gear (from a launch, unless wet outside) Steering response has slowly become a little more dull and pump has developed some whines, even though I've bled the system and changed o-rings etc. Rattling clutch release bearing and clutch that felt softer than it should even after bleeding clutch and checking master/slave cylinders for wear. Vibration felt through car between 5-6k rpm. I presume engine mounts, center prop bearing, gearbox mount and diff ear mounts are all from the factory and will need to be inspected to find the culprit. Doubt the previous garage who touched my car took much time to see if the prop shaft was aligned properly, when they changed my cluch so could be that as well. Whilst 3'' double decat sounds awesome, I am missing some of the lower end grunt from having the stock cats in place. Trying to source some 2.5 decats & stock cats to experiment with till I can get a good balance between sound & as little low end power loss as possible. Finally, the paint on the car and damage to front bumper from being so low previously all needs to be addressed at some point. But I'm going to prioritize the mechanical side of things first. Rather have a supra that feels as it should and look tatty, then a showcar which is terrible to drive. I've had plenty oftime to think of how I wanted to attempt to address all of the above, and I'msure as all can relate sometimes waiting for the right time for the time/space& money to do these jobs can seem like an eternity. Over Xmas, me andtwo friends had a plan to start renting a workshop local to us that we coulduse for all our projects and general car work. Whilst waiting forthe plan to come to fruition, I figured I would consult the TSRM maintenancescheduler and see what the toyota techs would be looking at on a high mileagesupra. Some of the jobs & component tests would have to wait until I getthe car in for some proper work, but I began work by doing diagnosis on theengine, electrical and fuel components to see if they were still in line withfactory specs. Up first was to seeengine compression. Thankfully, the engine is still making really goodcompression figures, with most cylinders sitting around 185, with the largestdifference between cylinders of 10psi. I also wanted to do a leak down test tocheck for the oil rings health, and see if there were any issues with valves orthe coolant system having leaks. Managed to break theebay compression kit I bought putting in a new fitting that would match mycompressor hose and didn't manage toget round to doing it since. Every mechanic I've talked with thinks I'm going alittle OTT trying to do a leak down test if compression is good, but I'd ratherbe safe than sorry. Next time I guess! Following that, Itested oil pressure & oil/water temp sensors, injector resistances, IACV& TPS calibration, ignition system resistances, fuel pump resistances etc. The only thing Iwasn't able to check was the fuel pressure, as I didn't have the tools neededto get a pressure reader attached to the fuel rail. Other than that howeverevery component I tested was showing results within factory specs on repairmanual. A testament to Toyota engineering I guess. Fast forward to amonth ago and finally was able to move into new workshop unit. It's not grandin any way, but definitely enough for our needs and enough room to work on afew cars. Took us a couple ofweeks to get settled in, but now the only thing we have left to put in is ourtwo poster ramp, but all the tools are organized and easy to access on a dailybasis. So the time camelast Friday where I was able to finally able to bring the supra in for somemuch needed TLC. I'm aiming to havethe following done within a month: Remove engine & driveline (inspect for components that need to be replaced) Remove rear subframe, suspension & fuel tank. (inspect for components that need to be placed) Sandblast rear subframe & use POR15 to give protection from rust Car previously has been undersealed so it's quite clean underneath, but need to underseal in areas where it's been missed out previous (above fuel tank) Assemble rear subframe + suspension with new bolts, using anti seize and grease where applicable to let it remain serviceable hopefully for many years to come Previous garage that replaced my clutch took £600 for the parts and labour and skimped out on the clutch parts I asked them to source, thinking I wouldn't find out. I had my doubts but now I have proof so will be on their case, and getting proper clutch parts now. Solid gearshift bushes Replacement of suspension arms with new oem where needed. Hammerite protection on arms & diff New rear coilovers, or a whole new coilover set all around depending on money. Clean engine bay, then determine if it looks good enough to leave in factory white or spray black to give contrast to the colour of the car. Do full gasket replacement on engine + cambelt/water pump replacement. Clean up auxiliary components + paint Clean engine gunk off, paint block, head & aux parts. Colourscheme undecided, won't be anything too fancy. Get head skimmed and install new head gasket, followed by reassembly of engine. New engine & gearbox oils + coolant + powersteering + brakes Put it all back in and get camber & alignment dialed in There are a coupleof other jobs I want to do on front subframe/suspension but not going to havetime/money to do them just yet and got plenty to do at the moment.

If you have the money to do a proper NA-T conversion, then you will have enough to buy a working GTE to drop in. I'd setup another budget for the gearbox, if you want 400hp and you plan on drifting this then the W58 is going to go at some point.

Yeah I've seen that. Not a fan of them due to using stock mounts and rust.

bump

After one in good condition which doesn't sound its dying.

Bump