Mike2JZ

Don't use the Mines ECU till you can get a response from them about what they did to that box? Seems obvious that it is the culprit here

Damn thats some impressive hardware

Still haven't sorted a new camera, but managed to steal a few photos from my friends phone this weekend. So this weekend: - Fuel tank cleaned and re-installed back on the car. Fuel tank cover wheeled back and new layer of etch primer & gloss black finish - Engine bay loom has been re-installed and routed for as much wire tucking as possible. (Keeping the fusebox where it is, and had to extend the ABS pump wires to be able to reach into the wing, but other then that it was quite simple to tuck everything away) Had some extra wrinkle black paint that I figured might look ok on the brake booster, as the black finish on it from factory was looking tired. Not sure how I feel about it to be honest, kind of wishing I just did a fresh coat of gloss black. But done now, so will re-assess it once everything is back in engine bay. After cleaning the brake & clutch cylinders, it was time to dive under the dash and get frustrated with the lack of space tightening them down. Also got round to putting the brake/clutch hardline back into the slave & abs pump. Feeling like I will redo the brake hardline on the car one day, not a fan of the factory ones. Thinking of having the iron color block/ally head to be contrasted by black engine components. So went with wrinkle black rocker covers to see what they looked like. Finally, moved to the engine loom and started getting rid of all the brittle plastic and loom tape in favor of TESA 51025 for cables not sitting directly near a heat source, and TESA 51026 for the contrary. Took a while, but pretty happy with the end result and nice to have plug separated by their individual cables Should be getting my head back from machining this thursday, so getting arp stud kit in preparation.

Still looking for 2.5 1st decat

Loving that intake manifold, engine bay looks serious now!

Looking to relocate my 2jzge igniter as I'm wire tucking part of the engine bay. Normally the igniter is bolted to the chassis on a metal mount, not sure if it's for grounding or because of ease of access. Car is in pieces so can't test it right now, can anyone confirm?

Great work and well deserved!

Go anthracite silver

I've got a pair, can get it to you £50 posted or could trade for some freeze caps if you have them

Ok sounds good. Otherwise might risk it for another 6 months till I pull the engine out again

Good point, doesn't look like they are that difficult to replace either. Do you know a place to get them in the UK, or do I need to go through toyota?

No I haven't touched anything on the block Edit: I didn't noticed any leaks from any of the plugs when I cleaned the blocks. Hopefully they last me a bit longer

Thanks dudes. So I had a bit of a fail, dropping my iPhone out of a moving car the other day, so all the photos I've taken from the last few days have disappeared into the nether. So I'm going old school using an old nokia brick and writing out what's been happening recently till I can get something else to take photos with again. - A while back I picked up some tein superstreets for the front and quite liked them. The rear set had been sold to a member here 'sidewaysdan'. after slowly pestering him for them he agreed to sell them to me so I could have a matching set. Drove up to milton keynes with a dying Mercedes and picked them up. Thank you so much dan was great meeting you - All remaining suspension arms were loosely fitted to subframe, which was then mounted back on the car. - Frustrated myself trying to work out why I couldn't get the drive shafts to go back into the diff/hub, when I learnt that the driveshafts after slightly different sized, swapped them round and went in like a glove. - The stock differential front mounts were pretty shite, and were allowing for the diff to have a lot of movement which could be heard occasionally when driving the car. I wanted to replace with vibratechnics but couldn't afford to stretch that far for their offering, so settled with the superpro diff ear mount kit. I'm not a fan of using polybushes, but for £50 I thought I'd give it a go seeing as toyota does not offer an oem replacement. - With the diff/arms & teins installed, I got round to torquing all bolts/nuts to spec. Very happy to see that the camber bolts move now as well, so looking good for geo setup in the future. I just need to get some new rear drop links and re-install the rear sway bay for the rear end to be completed. - Took my head to a local engineering firm and we spent some time inspecting it to see what needed to be done to refresh it a little. Firstly the head face had very good gasket coverage/sealing as seen by the marks left over, but on cyl 1 & 6, about 30% of the headgasket seal had some blow. So there will be a very light skim to make the surface flat again, ready for the new headgasket. Then did a fluid leak test, and none of the valves leaked fluid. However, some of the intake valves under about 190psi airline were allowing some moisture build up. Exhaust side was leak free even under pressure. Overall the valves were in good condition given their mileage, and there was no major leaks but I wouldn't say that the valves were sealing 100% on the intake side. Valves will be grinded/cleaned and retested. Once done the head can be cleaned and re-assembled onto block. Oh and new valve stem seals are being installed - Also sold my current JR10 wheels to another member on here, so hoping to get a set of wider offset width wheels which can help fill the rear arches a bit at the start of next month.

nice job so far dude, gonna look sweet once the rest of the pipework is brought to your usual standard.

fine by me too, will try and be back on the road for the next one

Cool, interested to know your feedback when you have it installed. Need to get rid of my W58 for something else soon

What are the plans regarding the gearbox if you are shooting for 600?

Only let one of my good mates drive it. I don't really mind so long as I know the person has got enough assets to compensate me if shit hits the fan.

So after much wire wheeling & anti rust treatments, sub frame was finally ready for some anti rust primer. Followed up by two coats of gloss black paint & a final layer of hammerite underseal. Stuck some of the arms on for a quick photo Now that subframe is ready to go again, I got a couple of new arms to replace the traction/toe rods that were knackered on mine. Also prepped the diff by giving the mating surfaces a clean, ready for new gasket. I should paint the diff to match the subframe, but don't know if I can stand doing any more wire wheeling. Received a full engine gasket kit today as well as new cambelt/cambelt tensioner etc so I can start making progress on the engine next. Sending my head off this weekend to be: - Washed - Measured for straightness/warpage, skimmed if required - Vavles grinded & reseated - Replace valve stem seals with new ones

Those manuals were written for US spec supra's so it is possible that US na's have a crankposition sensor as illustrated above. but I can say with certainty that the jspec na's do not have one there.

Do it and write a review, not that I have a 6 speed but still interested to know what its like

Not sure about fuel pressure on the stock rail, but with oil pressure you could get an adapter so you can run the stock sensor and an aftermarket one off the stock location on the block.

facelifts will look awesome !

waiting for the black single supra up for sale thread

Bit of a shot in the dark but has anyone got a decent condition exedy pressure plate for a W58?